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having some issues

  • Thread starter Thread starter Manzarr
  • Start date Start date
M

Manzarr

Guest
Started...or tried to start putting the top end back on my bike. Having some issues putting the cylinder block back on, more so with putting the pistons back in. Now I'm sure the ring compression tools my dad bought aren't the best. But it shouldn't be as difficult as it has been. Having trouble keeping the pistons even with the block to slide it down. The compression tools also dont release very easily. Any suggestions or tricks on how to get this done without putting holes in the walls from my head? Thanks.
 
Take a couple of wooden blocks with slots cut in them to hold the pistons up. Then work the cylinder down slowly pressing on the rings to slide them in. Once the cylinders are past the rings stop and repeat with the others
 
cowboyup3371 said:
Take a couple of wooden blocks with slots cut in them to hold the pistons up. Then work the cylinder down slowly pressing on the rings to slide them in. Once the cylinders are past the rings stop and repeat with the others
Click to expand...

That suggestion is one of the (very few) good ideas proposed in a Clymer manual.

Here is what they look like:

Pistonholder.jpg


Might have to adapt the size a bit for your engine, but your 750 is probably close enough to the 850 that it was designed for.

.
 
Yes following the manual. It's just being stubborn, an extra set of hamds would probably solve it but don't have them so...
Thanks for the advice, already made my blocks and found a couple good videos. Also took a secomd look at my shims, there's only 2 with visible numbers on them one 2.85..the other 2.90. There's one that I only see 2._0. Unfortnately they were shuffled around so i'm not sure how to go about that.
 
Harbor Freight is currently having a sale that included digital calipers for $10. Get a set, then measure all your shims ONE AT A TIME. You obviously have to rotate the engine to get the cam lobes pointed correctly to remove the shims, but you don't want to roate the engine unless ALL the buckets have a shim in them. The good news here is that you can remove a shim and insert a quarter, then safely rotate the engine BY HAND ONLY. This will keep the buckets away from the lobes and will not chip the edges of the lobes.

Measure all the shims, record them. Take your thinnest shim, move it to each valve position, position the cams correctly, measure the clearance. It's even better if you have TWO shims of that thinnest size, as you check two clearances with each cam position. Measure your clearances, record them. Move your shims to the next two positions, continue until you have measure the clearance at all positions. There might be some positions where you were not able to insert a feeler gauge, you now know that the needed shim will be smaller than what you used to check. Some positions might be OK. Great. Some might be loose, but by measuring the actual clearance, you will know how many shim sizes you need to increase to take up the extra room.
At this point, it only makes sense to invite you to take advantage of the offer in my sig.

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Sounds good Steve, I'll do that when I get there. So my dad measured my cams and lost the paper we had that had all the sizes of everything. The only thing on there that I couldn't remember the lobe sizes. So remeasured them and found 3 on the the intake cam that were out of spec and 2 on the exhaust cam. Can't find any from a shop, so my question is other than a junkyard or ebay. Where could I find some new ones?
 
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