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head light went out

  • Thread starter Thread starter mandu57
  • Start date Start date
checked the stator with volt/ohm meter. have zero coming from it.i disconnected it from rectifier/voltage regulator. thinking stator is out or wire broke. maybe when I replace cover gasket.it got pinched or cut..Possible???
 
ok 12.5 key off, 12.8 running at idle. does not increase when rpm's go up...either rectifier or stator
 
possibly you deleted your first post.

mandu57 said:
checked the stator with volt/ohm meter. have zero coming from it.i disconnected it from rectifier/voltage regulator. thinking stator is out or wire broke. maybe when I replace cover gasket.it got pinched or cut..Possible???
Click to expand...

zero volts?
zero volts AC, meter on AC...?
stator disconnected...?
with engine running...?
between each combination of two wires...?

Reason I ask is even a badly toasted stator will usally show some voltage on at least one set of wires.




And what do you find relative to your other problem of no headlight nor any instrument lights...?


.
 
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yea I did not put it on ac. still have not found reason for dash and headlight problem..
 
When you do the AC test (stator disconnected from R/R) looking for 60 to 80 volts AC lead to lead, also measure AC from one stator lead to good ground on bike- you want none.
 
only getting 5.2 volts either lead. only getting 12.5 at battery. at idle and higher rpm. battery started at 12.8.still have not found reason for headlight and dash light outage
 
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Previously you said...
"ok 12.5 key off, 12.8 running at idle. does not increase when rpm's go up...either rectifier or stator ":

the 5.2 volt stuff makes little sense stator lead to stator lead, since you were getting 12.8 "running at idle" ( some output)- test your meter on AC house outlet.
 
tom203 said:
Previously you said...
"ok 12.5 key off, 12.8 running at idle. does not increase when rpm's go up...either rectifier or stator ":

the 5.2 volt stuff makes little sense stator lead to stator lead, since you were getting 12.8 "running at idle" ( some output)- test your meter on AC house outlet.
Click to expand...

He needs to report all of the numbers. He did not give the loaded battery test portion so so knows?
 
posplayr said:
He needs to report all of the numbers. He did not give the loaded battery test portion so so knows?
Click to expand...
I know, but it's like pulling teeth! I gave him the link in this thread and in his lost post yesterday but he seems reluctant.
 
mandu57 said:
volt meter says 120 volts coming from house
so the meter is right,disregrade the 12.8
I am getting 5.2 from stator.
Click to expand...

Are you saying that you get no more then 5.2V AC from any two pair of wires from the stator with the engine running? Is that with the stator disconnected from the R/R? If so, then I'd say you have at least a stator issue. Pretty sure you can not definitively tell if the R/R is working correctly until you get a healthy stator in there.
 
tom203 said:
I know, but it's like pulling teeth! I gave him the link in this thread and in his lost post yesterday but he seems reluctant.
Click to expand...

confidential information.

If the headlamp is ON (after a push start) I'm good to go. :rolleyes:
 
It's a long way to North Dakota from Florida- get this sucker fixed! A new stator can be had from Caltric for $60- I'm using used ebay ones, but I live dangerously . Try to get hold of a 30 year old Shindengen R/R -millions put on Hondas and Kawasakis so junk yards will have them and they seem to be indestructible.(BUT they are no longer the best choice for this size/type charging system)
 
WTF, it's downhill all the way to ND, and usually a tailwind most o the way. No problemo!
 
The stator wiring needs some "refinement" - the 3 leads coming out of stator need to go direct to R/R; you might have to cut connectors off to achieve this. It's not plug-n-play if you do it right.

Take a look here-this shows the basics; ignore the orange wire for now

HondaRRconnections.jpg

Once again, you should do that quick test (if stator is still on bike)- it takes 5 minutes and offers clues to your bikes health.
 
Down hill.

Down hill.

You don't get the peoples humour around here yet. Better to do your maintenance first, than to have do repairs on the road in the middle of nowhere. Just my 2 cents.
 
mandu57 said:
well guys adios. I am deleting my account. just because.
Click to expand...

Glad to see that you are not being nasty about it.

Seems that most folks are trying to be helpful, and a couple just jokeing around.

I am trying to help.
One concern I have is that if you have no headlight and no instrument lights, maybe you should check to see if have tail light and brake lights.

Dave

PS: I do not know if you can delete your account.
You can delete a post, and if delete the first post then the entire thread is gone.
I do know that if do not log in for sometime like 3 months, it will expire.

.
 
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Redman said:
Glad to see that you are not being nasty about it.

Seems that most folks are trying to be helpful, and a couple just jokeing around.

I am trying to help.
One concern I have is that if you have no headlight and no instrument lights, maybe you should check to see if have tail light and brake lights.

Dave
Click to expand...

Some people have to learn that "free advice" is not an infinite resource. :|(although availability is probably inversely related to value)

The marginal utility (MU) of that resource should be maximized and not reading and not listening to what is typed is a sure way to make MU go to zero as was well demonstrated here in this thread. :-\\\
 
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