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head light went out

  • Thread starter Thread starter mandu57
  • Start date Start date
He sounded very frustrated-long ride ahead of him back to ND. He had an idea of what to check, but was stubborn about doing it in a step by step manner to help pinpoint/narrow down the problem. My mom used to say...."you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink"
 
I don't know what route he had planned but I was gonna offer assistance if he broke down near me.
 
He might still be lurking on here, so that's a nice offer. I'd send him a spare R/R to simplify his life, but he's got to lighten up.
 
Welcome back ; so you got a new stator? 3 yellow wires on it? What don't you understand about this diagram

HondaRRconnections.jpg



There's lots of people on here willing to help- you still hanging out in Florida?
 
Well, the Florida tourist board won't have you for a spokesperson! Anyways, glad it seems to be fixed. If you get bored, come back and do some reading here,cuz there are a few mods that can improve your charging system's life expectancy! Good luck in PA
 
Ok Tom,one more thing send me in the direction of figuring the head light and dash light problem..I tried to find it but to no avail.. so I figure i'll run a wire from battery to headlight thru an on/off switch..
 
What model/year is this again? Then, I could get the right wiring diagram.
Anyways, the basics are pretty much the same across all models/years. The main fuse (15 amp) gets power from battery and sends it to one side of ignition switch; when you then turn key "ON", the power goes back to fusebox and powers up those other 3 fuses ( ignition, headlight,and turn signals) where it then goes to the differrent items.
Corrosion causes all sorts of problems. Yeah, you can run a wire direct to headlight from battery -make sure you use an inline 10 amp fuse along with switch.
The dashboard lights probably come off different fuse than headlight- I'm unsure with whatever model you have.
 
81 gs1100e.does it also run tail light. .since tail light works. so it might be some where near headlight..maybe a ground...
 
I'm have trouble viewing your bike's diagram; on my 81 650 the tail light runs off headlight fuse ( I just checked). Most other stuff runs off turn signal fuse.
Yes, could be ground for headlight bulb or your left hand switch might be faulty- does yours still have on/off switch?
 
it's high low switch on left..kill switch on right control
 
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Some 81's like mine had an on/off switch along with dimmer- by 1982 , models lost the on/off switch but suzuki chose to leave wiring harness as it was ( they just bridged connectors in harness). This,unfortunately, gets back to those multiple color stator wires that you just played with installing new stator. Not sure if the "suzuki guy" had you bypass these -probably not , but let's skip this subject for now.
Did you check out your voltage after you wired up new stator? You should get about 12.5 to 13 volts at 1100 rpm; at 2000 rpm and above, this should be at 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

Edit; since your headlight ain't working, your idle voltage might be greater than above. At no time do you want voltage over 15 volts.
 
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yes I have correct voltage at battery. I wish it had on/off. but no..no I did not record them but it was 13 something at high idle..ran wire for headlight. working fine but have to correct it eventually ...plus the bike is running smoother .I replaced the manifold clamps to carbs.. I think I was sucking air. because I noticed moisture around the rubber connectors..
 
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You could have the clutch release arm one tooth out and you wouldn't get a good lock up. I have also seen a clutch where the PO left one steel plate out and it did the same thing.

Cheers
 
You could have the clutch release arm one tooth out and you wouldn't get a good lock up. I have also seen a clutch where the PO left one steel plate out and it did the same thing.

Cheers
Hey, don't scare him off- he was about to offer voltage results!
 
yes I have correct voltage at battery. I wish it had on/off. but no..no I did not record them but it was 13 something at high idle..ran wire for headlight. working fine but have to correct it eventually ...plus the bike is running smoother .I replaced the manifold clamps to carbs.. I think I was sucking air. because I noticed moisture around the rubber connectors..

Engine warms up so charging is fine.
 
its idle at 13.3/ higher rpm 13.9..seems high for idle.or is it OK. only have high beam with jumper. plus tail light on when key on ..headlight on when key on..is this acceptable??also do you know amp for all the fuses. I would like to make sure I have all I need for trip .just incase I need them..rechecked voltage at battery at low idle 12.4..dont know rpm's since my tach cable is broke...so iam guessing but when I idle it up to around 2000. 13.8..Is this ok??? waiting on chain sprockets. so bike is on center stand ,no rear wheel...it is ok the stator is working good and the r/r is doing it's job..it will go to 14v..but like I said tach cable broke so only guessing on rpm..also headlight does get a little dimmer at idle and comes right back up at higher rpm..looks great to me...
 
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13.3 at idle and 13.8 @ 2000 is OK but what does it do at 5K? Do you ever achieve +14V at the battery?
 
You could have the clutch release arm one tooth out and you wouldn't get a good lock up. I have also seen a clutch where the PO left one steel plate out and it did the same thing.

Cheers

I have no idea how this happened, I was on a clutch thread...:confused:
 
mandu57;

Your numbers are ok, at a low idle with headlight now on, voltage might be around 12.5- at least it comes up quickly to as revs go up. Your headlight is supposed to come on with ignition "on". Main fuse is 15 amp-others are 10 amp; get some extras and mark them somehow so you can tell which are which in poor lighting .
You did fuse your jumper wire to high beam,right??

Your charging system ain't perfect, but it's adequate; when you get to PA and have time, you can fine tune it! Good luck
 
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