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head removal

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is there any instruction on here or another website on a way to remove the head because i have a stuck valve and i need it unstuck. is there an easier way to do it?
 
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Sometimes a stuck valve is caused by the shimbucket jamming in its bore. You may be able to rectify this by simply removing the valve cover and corresponding cam to access it. Dont try to use pliers or picks. A wooden dowel and mallet should free it just be careful not to damage the bore. If the valve itself is damaged you will have to remove the head.
 
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i dont think the valve is bent because it was running fine before i went to get oil and when i got back it knocked when i tried to start it and ticked when it idled. do you think it will help if i spray water into the intake to clean the carbon?

and by jamming in its bore, do i HAVE to take the cam out, or can i work around it.
 
Hopefully it is carbon lodged in the seat or on the valve. Hope it isn't anything else. :?
You have to remove the cam to get to the shims. Not a big job so don't sweat it too much.
 
If the valve is stuck ?? you will have a very large valve clearance. Take the cam cover off, hit the top of the shim/shim bucket with wooden dowel a few time . Don't need to remove the cams. Then recheck the valve clearance, check the compression.
 
i took the spark plug out and cranked it. i could see the valves moving but i dont know if they close all the way.
 
Check the valve clearance, a stuck valve will have a lot of clearance.
 
i just changed the oil and put 3.5 quarts in in ran it for a bit and the level is at the full mark.

garden hose????
 
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The head is held tight by both studs and bolts. Three bolts, one on each end and one in front. The remainder are nuts on studs, I am not personally familiar with 850, but 650 heads held with acorn nuts.

In your case, I believe the advice being given is to remove valve cover from top of engine and observe valve operation to see if valve is truly stuck. By checking valve clearance you will quickly find stuck valve.
 
im goin to take the valve cover off and check the clearances but i was just curious as to what the head was held on by.
 
Good advice all round, at the risk of stating the obvious, before you give the valve a few sharp taps with the hammer and wooden dowel to free it up, remove the spark plug and make sure the piston is at the bottom of the stroke, otherwise you will knock the valve against the piston crown, and then you will have a bent valve and a head job on your hands.:shock:8-[
Over that side of the pond, in the U.S of A you are very fortunate to have a fantastic product called "Sea Foam" for removing carbon and varnish inside a motor, wish I could get my hands on some here, but alas....:cry:
 
chef1366 said:
It's gotta be winter. :?
Click to expand...
Yeah :-D

I know from the drag boys that a little water sprayed into the intakes can help stave off detonation, and there was a guy in UK about 40 years ago who patented a device that sprayed a little water into carb throats which gave better running - I guess all of us have noticed that carb engines run noticeably better in cold, damp conditions.

I also know that a little water sprayed into the carb is an old school mechanic's trick to help break up carbon deposits in the chamber.

I just meant don't hose the stuff in there. I have a piston from a 2-stroke go-kart engine that vividly demonstrates the effect of too much water in the fuel. The kid broke 3 pistons in one afternoon before they figured out what was causing it.
 
well im about to take the head off because the valve's clearance is somewhere around .4 millimeters, not .04. i tapped the shim, scraped some carbon off, and sprayed sea foam in it. no luck:(
 
Not to but into this thread, but this kinda goes along with what he's doing, so maybe it will be helpfull to him as well. I was checking my clearances on that motor i picked up off ebay. Intake side was all tight, so tight in fact the only one i could get into spec (due to the shims i had available at the time) went from a 2.80 to a 2.65. Exhaust were all within spec save for one, and i had the shim to fix that. Anyway, with all those intake valves being that far out of spec, it makes me worry about burnt intake valves. I looked down thru the plug hole to see what i could see of the intake valve and it didnt look cooked, the piston crowns are all a lil bit carboned but thats to be expected, especially considering based on the look of the plugs i pulled out of it and the smell of what oil was left in it, it had been running rich.

Here's my question, is there a way with the motor out of the bike, and NOT pulling the head, to tell if the intake valves are cooked?
 
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