Header Dent Removal...?

[ronin1166]

I've got a stainless 4:1 Supertrapp Superstreet header for my GS1100E.
Very pretty pipe, and the price was extremely right.
But has the customary bottoming dents on the 2 lower tubes, just forward of the collector.
Not severe, but I'd prefer them gone, if possible.

Does anybody know of any tricks to remove or push out the dents?

Or know of any talented shop guys who can?

.

 

[teet]

Freezing water has been used by some..also a skilled welder, or body shop should be able to pull them out..

Check out this..(scroll down a bit on the page...)

http://fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3277


Jeff (teet)

 

[elevatorman71]

i know a perfect way for you to get rid of the dents in the header......give the exhaust to me! lol just kiddin

 

[Nessism]

Freezing water has been used by some..also a skilled welder, or body shop should be able to pull them out..

Check out this..(scroll down a bit on the page...)

http://fzronline.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3277


Jeff (teet)

Counter point... http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-62/exhaust-pipe-dent-removal-34033/

Quote from link above...

Default Re: Exhaust Pipe Dent Removal

man the freeze method just cost me 250.00 bucks i plugged one end and filled it with water froze it and the dents came right out and it ripped a huge gash in the pipe so now no dents and an unusable pipe that was a hard lesson learned so i would not suggest this to anyone freeze method is not the way

 

[Guest]

Never seen it first hand but I've heard of guys removing dented two stoke dirtbike pipes by somehow sealing the pipe and filling with compressed air and heating the desired area. I also think your SS pipe may be a bit heavier guage steel.

 

[teet]

I just did this on a pipe I got from rover.. Worked perfectly..

The problem is ...plugging the pipe, even one end!..big no,no...

I'll post some pics If I can get e good shot under the bike.

I wouldn't have attempted it on an expensive pipe, but the one I received was hammered on the bottom, so it was worth a shot. The freeze method popped them out probably 90% to the original size. They were close to 1/2 crushed. I watched it very carefully while it froze, and when it had popped out to my liking I pulled it from the freezer. I would do it again in a heartbeat!

The problem is, not monitoring it, and filling it up with water, and not giving it natural room to expand..the ends will freeze first allowing controlled expansion. You can't just fill it with water, plug it, and leave it for a week..ugh

I tested this method first on a piece of tailpipe that I banged in with a hammer, and it worked just as good.... not perfect, but good.

It worked for me...thats all I can say. If you have any doubt..pay someone else to fix it for you.

Jeff (teet)

 

[Guest]

Just one problem with that freeze method.. What are ya gonna do with the food while the pipes in the freezer?
Sounds like a good winter time project for you frozen tundra folk.

 

[teet]

Just one problem with that freeze method.. What are ya gonna do with the food while the pipes in the freezer?
Sounds like a good winter time project for you frozen tundra folk.

Ahh..yes...If my wife only know that there was a potentially "greasy, grimy, junky, stupid motorcycle part" in close proximity to "her" food, I wouldn't be here typing this message!

Jeff (teet)

 

[duaneage]

Top loading freezer in the garage. Tell the wife a deer head is in the freezer and she'll stay out for a while.

 

[Big T]

How about pushing a ball bearing of the correct diameter down the pipe?

Or, a large dowel if access is available

 

[posplayr]

The problem is, not monitoring it, and filling it up with water, and not giving it natural room to expand..the ends will freeze first allowing controlled expansion. You can't just fill it with water, plug it, and leave it for a week..ugh


Jeff (teet)

So what did you do to make it work; watch it or plug the ends?

I tried it once ; just filling with water and allowing to freeze solid. Nothing happened.

Did you somehow promote the ends to freeze which cause the rise in internal pressure as it froze inside?

I'm not questioning just wondering what it takes to work.

 

[teet]

So what did you do to make it work; watch it or plug the ends?

I tried it once ; just filling with water and allowing to freeze solid. Nothing happened.

Did you somehow promote the ends to freeze which cause the rise in internal pressure as it froze inside?

I'm not questioning just wondering what it takes to work.

I just watched it...The ends would naturally freeze quicker as they are in contact with the cold air, not insulated by the pipe. I think that plugging the ends would allow for slower freezing, but less room for expansion, thus damage to the pipes..just a guess based on other folks misfortunes.

I actually used a chest freezer that we have in our basement that I use for venison. It was empty at the time, so I cranked the setting to the max the night before I put the pipe in, and kept a close eye on it. No plugs on either end of the pipe, I had to position it so that the dented area was always filled with water.

I think the colder than usual temperature sped up the freezing process. I didn't just decide to do this on a whim. I read several posts on other forums, websites, and blogs, both pro and con about this method. I was very skeptical about the outcome, but with a watchfull eye it worked very well. If I had purchased a $300 pipe that was all shiny and pretty, I probably wouldn't have tried this, but I got my unknown pipe for $30, so figured it was worth a shot.

I cant guarantee anyones results as there are so many inconsistencies with freezers, dents, pipes, etc, and maybe I was just lucky...who knows.

Jeff (teet)

 

[bwringer]

I'm wondering if body shop methods would work -- drill a small hole, attach slide hammer, pull most of the dent out, close the hole with a dot of weld.

It wouldn't look perfect by any means, but if you could find someone able to weld stainless, it could be done pretty quickly and cheaply.

 

[posplayr]

I just watched it...The ends would naturally freeze quicker as they are in contact with the cold air, not insulated by the pipe. I think that plugging the ends would allow for slower freezing, but less room for expansion, thus damage to the pipes..just a guess based on other folks misfortunes.

I actually used a chest freezer that we have in our basement that I use for venison. It was empty at the time, so I cranked the setting to the max the night before I put the pipe in, and kept a close eye on it. No plugs on either end of the pipe, I had to position it so that the dented area was always filled with water.

I think the colder than usual temperature sped up the freezing process. I didn't just decide to do this on a whim. I read several posts on other forums, websites, and blogs, both pro and con about this method. I was very skeptical about the outcome, but with a watchfull eye it worked very well. If I had purchased a $300 pipe that was all shiny and pretty, I probably wouldn't have tried this, but I got my unknown pipe for $30, so figured it was worth a shot.

I cant guarantee anyones results as there are so many inconsistencies with freezers, dents, pipes, etc, and maybe I was just lucky...who knows.

Jeff (teet)

I had a completely empty standup freezer. I filled the pipe with tap water and proped it against the side of the freezer with a bag of ice so it was nearly 70% full of water. I did that at night and checked it in the morn. Frozen solid but no effect on the moderate dents.

I did not think to crank up down the thermostat.

 

[posplayr]

I'm wondering if body shop methods would work -- drill a small hole, attach slide hammer, pull most of the dent out, close the hole with a dot of weld.

It wouldn't look perfect by any means, but if you could find someone able to weld stainless, it could be done pretty quickly and cheaply.

Anybody reasonably good with a welder can have at it. I have seen pics of pieces literally cut out and replaced to look like nothing ever happened. The freeze technique if I could get it to work would be the easiest for me.

There are several different techniques including compressed air and some places do dent repair commercially. Unfortunately the one I found specifically did not do 4 cycles.

 

[teet]

I had a completely empty standup freezer. I filled the pipe with tap water and proped it against the side of the freezer with a bag of ice so it was nearly 70% full of water. I did that at night and checked it in the morn. Frozen solid but no effect on the moderate dents.

I did not think to crank up down the thermostat.

Hmmm..maybe too much water?? I think it totally depends on a lot of factors, and probably some luck too. My dents were only in one section of the 2 center pipes, so I tried to only get the water to pool into those areas. It actually cracked some of the ceramic coating when the dents popped back out.

I definitely agree that its a hit and miss kind of repair, and if I had the money or the option I would have taken my pipe to a body shop and have then pull them out.

On a side note, I had a dent on one of the pipes on my FZR600, and it actually had a small hole in it. I fixed it myself by simply mig welding it to fill in the hole, and slightly build up the dented area. Ground it down, and you would never know there was a hole, or dent. Not feasible on my GS, but if they aren't too bad it might be another option to make them look better....stainless would be a tad more work though.

Jeff (teet)

 

[Guest]

I think the best thing to do is get used to looking at the dent.

 

[posplayr]

I think the best thing to do is get used to looking at the dent.

Why would I wanna do that. I would have to get used to lying on my back as that is the only way to see most dents .

Anyway, some of can't leave well enough alone :dancing:

 

[posplayr]

Hmmm..maybe too much water?? I think it totally depends on a lot of factors, and probably some luck too. My dents were only in one section of the 2 center pipes, so I tried to only get the water to pool into those areas. It actually cracked some of the ceramic coating when the dents popped back out.

I definitely agree that its a hit and miss kind of repair, and if I had the money or the option I would have taken my pipe to a body shop and have then pull them out.

On a side note, I had a dent on one of the pipes on my FZR600, and it actually had a small hole in it. I fixed it myself by simply mig welding it to fill in the hole, and slightly build up the dented area. Ground it down, and you would never know there was a hole, or dent. Not feasible on my GS, but if they aren't too bad it might be another option to make them look better....stainless would be a tad more work though.

Jeff (teet)

Are we talking thin wall stainless or a more hefty mild steel pipe? I have a Yoshi 4:1 pipe that is pretty damn nice except for a rock dent about 1/4 way up one of the down tubes. That is the one I tested and failed with above.

I also have a Yoshi 4:2:1 thin wall stainless (see my siggy) that could stand some similar treatment if I could figure out what works.

 

[Guest]

LMAO..
I know all too well about leaving well enough alone.
My wiring harness can vouch for that.