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Headlight conversion and regulator question.

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I'm thinking of changing the bulb in my headlight for a higher powered bulb, or, changing it to an LED headlamp. I've been told in another forum, I'd have to upgrade with a rectifier or regulator, can anyone confirm/explain/deny this for me?
 
Regardless of your headlight, a stock GS charging system will eventually toast the generator's stator. This is because, back in the day, only shunt type regulators were available. This type of regulator, for reasons I don't understand anymore if I ever did, stops charging the battery by shorting the generator back to itself. So it keeps generating power, and dumps all the heat from that state into the engine oil. That works for a while, less of a while if you carry a lot of revs (which turn the generator faster, making more power). A new type regulator, the series type, can switch the generator to an open circuit condition, so extra power is not generated if not needed. See here for discussion and options for a series regulator.

If you reduce the load on the stock charging system (say, with a more efficient headlight), the battery will charge faster, and the generator will spend more time shorted to itself. So yes, less load on the charging system actually makes the stock system fail sooner. Not only does it cook the stator, but some electrical connections related to the stator also overheat, melting connectors you'd rather not have melted. So, in the short term, a higher power bulb will throw more light and reduce the amount of time the stator spends heating itself. However, those bulbs burn out faster, and the stock charging system will eventually cook itself anyway. (A side note: dirty connections and bad grounds in the power system will accelerate this process immensely.)

For maximum reliability, and a superior beam pattern, a well-designed headlight such as the Truck Light generation 7 (beware knock-offs), with a good series regulator is what I would recommend. LED components that use your existing reflector (lens, housing, whatever you know it as) are not recommended, because they will probably not throw a good pattern, resulting in a less effective headlight than stock, maybe dangerously so. Even if you don't change the headlight, invest in a series regulator and clean connections everywhere. Otherwise, you'll eventually be on the side of the road with a dead battery, a cooked stator, and maybe a cooked regulator too.

Don't underestimate the chances of dirty connections in the charging system. They can lead to early failure of a stock regulator and stator. Chances are, you already have symptoms. Do the quick test in the Stator Papers to see where you stand.
 
Last edited:
Dogma said:
Regardless of your headlight, a stock GS charging system will eventually toast the generator's stator. This is because, back in the day, only shunt type regulators were available. This type of regulator, for reasons I don't understand anymore if I ever did, stops charging the battery by shorting the generator back to itself. So it keeps generating power, and dumps all the heat from that state into the engine oil. That works for a while, less of a while if you carry a lot of revs (which turn the generator faster, making more power). A new type regulator, the series type, can switch the generator to an open circuit condition, so extra power is not generated if not needed. See here for discussion and options for a series regulator.

If you reduce the load on the stock charging system (say, with a more efficient headlight), the battery will charge faster, and the generator will spend more time shorted to itself. So yes, less load on the charging system actually makes the stock system fail sooner. Not only does it cook the stator, but some electrical connections related to the stator also overheat, melting connectors you'd rather not have melted. So, in the short term, a higher power bulb will throw more light and reduce the amount of time the stator spends heating itself. However, those bulbs burn out faster, and the stock charging system will eventually cook itself anyway. (A side note: dirty connections and bad grounds in the power system will accelerate this process immensely.)

For maximum reliability, and a superior beam pattern, a well-designed headlight such as the Truck Light generation 7 (beware knock-offs), with a good series regulator is what I would recommend. LED components that use your existing reflector (lens, housing, whatever you know it as) are not recommended, because they will probably not throw a good pattern, resulting in a less effective headlight than stock, maybe dangerously so. Even if you don't change the headlight, invest in a series regulator and clean connections everywhere. Otherwise, you'll eventually be on the side of the road with a dead battery, a cooked stator, and maybe a cooked regulator too.

Don't underestimate the chances of dirty connections in the charging system. They can lead to early failure of a stock regulator and stator. Chances are, you already have symptoms. Do the quick test in the Stator Papers to see where you stand.
Click to expand...

If the electrical explanations of SHUNT v.s. SERIES regulations are to abstract, then there is a mechanical equivalent analogy.

A SHUNT R/R allows the charging system to run ALL OUT ALL THE TIME, but reduces the output by adjusting a variable load. So imagine the next time you, start your car, you immediately floor it and control your speed to get to your destination by keeping your foot on the brake. The less brakes, the faster you go.

A SERIES R/R work differently, it does not run the charging system FLAT OUT but rather regulates how much power it can output at the source. This is like controlling the amount of gas and air that goes to your engine.

In this analogy, you can imagine that it is much easier to for go having to design a carburetor that can vary over a wide range of RPM and load conditions; you just run flat out with a CV type carburetor. The only down side, is it is hard on the brakes(the analogy to the electrical stator when it acts like a pure load).
 
Ok, thanks for the info. So I need a series r/r and should probably replace the stator? And I'll go ahead and go with a higher power bulb, and carry a spare.
 
Try searching. There are countless threads on R/R's here.

The SH775 is the forum favorite, only prices have shot up on them since it seems that everyone wants one now. Purchasing used is a good option. Search ebay for "polaris rzr regulator". Be sure to verify any unit your purchase has the proper "SH775" lettering on it. There are chinese knockoffs on the market so don't be fooled.
 
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