• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

helicoils came out

  • Thread starter Thread starter luvnwunderwoman
  • Start date Start date
That's what I love about this forum, no ambiguity from the senior members. I have been searching other forums for aluminum tapping techniques and lubricants. So far I have had people swear by WD40, kerosene, beeswax, brake fluid, motor oil, 10 weight oil, and Tap Magic but use the old stuff that stinks. If I had any hair I would be pulling it out right now.
Thanks for the info guys, I will let you know how it works out.
Nick
 
Aluminum taps very nicely. Just be sure to use a sharp tap and apply the correct limited pressure while starting it. Personally i would have done 1/4-28 for internal machine components. If wd40 is all you have available it will work for the tap. Obviously designated tapping fluid is ideal. We use 'rapid tap' its a great all purpose fluid.

Use loctite responsibly with 1/4-28, i would never expect that hardware to back out anyways. 1/4-20 may have a possibility of working itself back out being coarser. A very small dab of blue loctite wont do much harm. One drip of blue will do a bunch of those bolts. Just dont go and dip them in it! I dont normally use locktite on aluminum. but i go by the hardware fitment. A drop of blue on your finger tip smeared across your finger tip,, not a puddle. Roll your bolt 1/4 of its length or less over your finger tip. Thats all you need in a worst case scenario.
 
Last edited:
One of my spark plug holes are heli-coiled on the chamber side.
No problems with that in like 10 years!
 
This was so easy !!! I spent more time cutting strips of cloth to keep shavings out of the engine than I did cutting the threads. The cam cap made the perfect guide block to get me started straight. I used wd40 for lube, frequent cleaning of the holes with Qtips and compressed air. 1/2 turn in and 1/4 turn out technique. Torqued the bolts down to 84 inch pounds. Put it all back together and she purrs like a kitten. Too rainy and cold to get on the highway and open her up right now.
This forum is the best and the donation I give to support it is returned many times over. Again I want to thank everyone for their input.
Nick
 
Finally warmed up enough to get the bike on the road. Now the bike bogs down at 1/3 throttle and up. Starts and idles just fine. I did not touch the carbs or airbox. Any thoughts on what is causing this ?
 
Apart from counting the pins, did you align the crank on the TDC 1-4 mark then follow the full valve timing procedure?
 
No I need to read up on that procedure. Will I need a timing light ? This bike is getting beyond my mechanical knowledge and I cant find anyone local who knows how to work on the old Japanese bikes. I thank you for your input.
Nick
 
I was just looking, Cliff will have it on his welcome link Basscliffe His tutorials are really easy to follow.
 
luvnwunderwoman said:
No I need to read up on that procedure. Will I need a timing light ? This bike is getting beyond my mechanical knowledge and I need to learn a few new things. Can't find anyone local who cares as much as me, they all seem to be incompetent rip offs, so I need to learn to work on the old Japanese bikes myself. I thank you for your input.
Nick
Click to expand...

Fixed it a little bit.
 
In the service manual on bikecliff's site is the procedure to check the timing advance (page 420). It does not give any procedure to follow if the timing advance is not correct. When I put the cam shaft back in I was careful to follow the procedure for timing (page 70). I assume ignition timing (page 85-86) does not apply to my bike as it does not have points. Page 417 states ignition timing is maintained properly at all times and requires no maintenance. If I go out and buy a timing light and find the advance does not work properly what am I to do ?
I thank all for your response,
Nick
 
Are you sure you are looking at the Cam timing or Valve timing? not to be confused with ignition timing.
Behind the points cover there is a hole about 3/4"-19mm and through that you will see as you rotate the crank with your 19mm spanner some marks and the one you are looking for is 1-4 TDC you want that lined up exactly on the small line on the back plate, (not the 2-3) this now is the start point of the timing, you should now see I (think on the EXhaust cam sprocket two marks, (If you don't then rotate the crank exactly one full rotation back to the TDC mark and you will see them come up, the first cam lobe you can see at the points end will point exactly forwards and you should see on the cam sprocket a line, this should lay parallel with the cylinder head where the cam cover sits, the second timing mark is the one you are familiar with and should point straight up Perpendicular to the head and you count off the twenty pins including the first on the mark that will give you the position for the INlet mark, again, perpendicular to the head and including the twentieth pin. The lobe you see on this cam will be pointing exactly rearwards taking into account the tilt of the head.
(Points end is just the right hand side and is the same for electronic ignition)
 
Tatu thank you for your reply. That is the procedure I followed when setting cam timing. I will pull the valve cover back off and check it again. Tired of fooling with it right now.
Wishing everyone a Merry Christmas,
Nick
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top