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HELP!! '82 GS1100GK Carb ???s

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
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Anonymous

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I picked up a 1982 1100GK last December. I finally got around to getting it ready to ride this spring. When I picked it up I couldn't start bike do to bad battery.

Previous owner said bike ran really well (he is trustworthy) but would possibly need the carbs synched. It will start with some effort and alot of choke and runs fairly well over 2000 rpm once warmed up. Under 2000 rpm it runs a bit rough and will not idle. There is also some noise coming from the #1 and possibly #2 cylinders. The only way to keep it running/idling is feather the throttle and this is with the idle adjuster all the way in. Any suggestions on this one?

Also, as I have the carbs off again and checked the air screws (engine side, top side of inlet) and 3 of the 4 are froze. What is the best approach to this problem?

Oh yeah, I do have a manual on the way.

Thanks!!
 
Re: HELP!! '82 GS1100GK Carb ???s

cozee said:
Also, as I have the carbs off again and checked the air screws (engine side, top side of inlet) and 3 of the 4 are froze. What is the best approach to this problem?

Oh yeah, I do have a manual on the way.

Thanks!!
Click to expand...

PB Blaster works great on those. I suspect that since your screws are frozen, that the associated fuel circuit is bad as well. this would explain your no-idle situation. Above 2000RPM, another circuit takes over. Sounds like you need a visit to the carb cleanup series - you have a bad case of NCS, or Nasty Carb Symptom.
 
PB Blaster works great on those.
Click to expand...

That is what they are soaking in at the moment!


Sounds like you need a visit to the carb cleanup series -
Click to expand...

Kinda figured that already. I've read through it several times so as to get more familiar with the carbs and related parts.

Thanks!!
 
If they are real stubborn they will have to be drilled & removed with an easyout- Note of Caution USE A LEFT HANDED DRILL BIT
 
If they are real stubborn they will have to be drilled & removed with an easyout- Note of Caution USE A LEFT HANDED DRILL BIT
Click to expand...

Stubborn they are for sure! Someone before had attempted to turn them and messed the slots up pretty good on a couple of them. I will let them soak in PB Blaster for a few more days and then use a little heat to see if I can get them out before drilling them.
 
cozee said:
I will let them soak in PB Blaster for a few more days and then use a little heat to see if I can get them out before drilling them.
Click to expand...

I can only guess at the chosen means of heat application, but, speaking generally, I would recommend AGAINST it.

Broad external heat applied against the carb body might work, but it seems doubtful.

Using a pre-heated object and placing it against the screw will be of little use,: the heat loss in the air will likley outweigh the very small application area.

Direct application would require a tiny and direct flame, such as a pocket torch, and this is the only one I think may work.

That said,

Unless you are VERY good with using the tiny torch, it is likely you will cause permanent damage to the carb
Click to expand...
 
I can only guess at the chosen means of heat application, but, speaking generally, I would recommend AGAINST it.
Click to expand...

It usually doesn't take much heat to loosen dissimilar metals and I will be using a propane torch which will supply enough heat without needing to be concerned about melting or warping the housing. I've done this many times before with snowmobile carbs and ever to frequiently at work when dealing with aluminum and steel situations like this.

And for safety, besides being stripped for cleaning they will have been washed to remove any fuel hiding out up in there!!
 
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