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HELP...I'm loosing it, Bike cuts out on restart

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
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Anonymous

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Here's the Bike 82 GS300L ...Here's the prob. SHe cranks fine, warms up after a few minutes..no problem.... can ride as long as I want. But when I turn her off and she sits for 15 to 20 minutes or so when you crank her back up ,even though she's still warm to the touch she acts like she's dead cold, wont take gas well , bogs down a bit and all that. have to sit and let her (warm up) again. It is terribly annoying when you stop for gas or go in and git a bite to eat to have to sit on your bike for 5 minutes waiting for it to clear up enough to ride. WHat could be causing this?
 
Re: HELP...I'm loosing it, Bike cuts out on restart

I would check the float height setting. Sounds like the fuel level in the float bowls is too low.

Earl


ZQJim said:
Here's the Bike 82 GS300L ...Here's the prob. SHe cranks fine, warms up after a few minutes..no problem.... can ride as long as I want. But when I turn her off and she sits for 15 to 20 minutes or so when you crank her back up ,even though she's still warm to the touch she acts like she's dead cold, wont take gas well , bogs down a bit and all that. have to sit and let her (warm up) again. It is terribly annoying when you stop for gas or go in and git a bite to eat to have to sit on your bike for 5 minutes waiting for it to clear up enough to ride. WHat could be causing this?
Click to expand...
 
I hate to even ask but will i have to take the carbs down to check the floats?
 
The most commonly used method of setting float levels is to remove the carbs from the bike, turn them upside down on your bench and remove the float bowls. The float height is measured from the float bowl gasket surface (no gasket in place) to the top of the float (which is actually the bottom if the carbs are right side up) Adjustment is made by lightly bending the brass tang on the floats.

An alternate method of measuring float height is if you have a fitting that will screw into the float bowl drains, (you would remove the drain plugs first :-) )
you can attach a clear tube and zip tie it to the side of the carb. The tube will show the fuel level in the bowl. The drawback is if adjustment is needed, you still must remove the carbs to adjust the float heights since that is done by bending the tangs on the float bracket.

Clymer and Haines give the specs for float height and the specs for fuel in the tube if you use the alternate method. Specs are different for each bike, so you will need the book for your specific bike.

Earl


ZQJim said:
I hate to even ask but will i have to take the carbs down to check the floats?
Click to expand...
 
One question remains, was any work done to the carbs recently? problems like this do not usually come from 'out of the blue', unless there is a rust problem in the fuel tank , but even then, symptoms usually start over a period of time.
 
It hadn't had any work on carbs, then, took them off and cleaned them last weekend, still doing the same thing. Started cutting out real bad too, before carb cleaning.When I get up to about 55 in 5th gear,sorry no tach,after running a few miles in 5th it acts like you shut the fuel off,doesn't die but bogs down verry bad , pull over and tried just letting it idle for a minute to see if maybe the bowls just ran out of gas ,no luck, after about 5 min. of sitting there and giving it a bit o gas it would run enough to get home,still cut out bad and spit n sputter all the way, sometimes it would catch up and run fine for a few seconds then bog down again, get it home let it cool off and go again starts fine rides fine up to 5th then same thing all over . won't straighten up untill it cools off, would a valve problem couse this? oh and there was rust in the tank, took the tank and had it cleaned and lined, so hopefully fixed that propblem.
 
I had an inline fuel filter come apart internally, partially blocking fuel flow, and it gave the same symptoms, also had a petcock that was broken internally, wouldn't open fully due to the diaphragm being blocked, partially closed, by the guide pin that goes inside the spring under the petcock diaphragm, also showed the same symptoms.....also make sure the vacuum line and connections to the petcock aren't dry rotted, cracked, pinched etc.
 
yeah i'm going to take the petcock apart as soon as I get time and see what it looks like on the inside. Any thing important I need to know before I do? I.E. small parts to loose or springs that might fly out never to be seen again?
 
ZQJim said:
Any thing important I need to know before I do? I.E. small parts to loose or springs that might fly out never to be seen again?
Click to expand...


there's a spring and the guide to lose.... mostly be careful not to rip the diaphragm when you split the housing..
 
ok checked petcock, it's clean and working fine. Even pulled the hose off and cranked her up, gas seems to be flowing fine in all positions. Checked the vaccum line it's good. Bike is still doing the same ol thing, runs for a while then just bogs down, acts like it's not got enough gas in the carbs to run it. the floats seemed to be in the right position, guess I'll pull the carbs and set them a little higher see what that does. Is there anything else anyone knows of that would cause this problem?
 
If the fuel system checks out and it seems it does, then the problem is electrical, so get to the stator papers and start testing.
Dink
 
Could be what others have mentioned.
Let me add a few easy to do checks.
Generally, a bike that starts up fine when cold, but hesitates to start when hot, can mean a rich mixture problem, a fuel venting problem, or a poor electrical connection that doesn't show until it heats up.
Is the air filter clean?
Is the vent in the gas cap clean?
Did you make any adjustments to the mixture screws when working on the carbs? If you did, did you put them back exactly as they were?
Does removing just the air filter help? Does loosening the gas cap help while riding?
Try checking/cleaning the coil/plug leads/cap connections, also clean/tighten the battery connections and fill correctly with distilled water.
 
It actually starts up fine soon as I hit the starter it fires up , prob. is it idles fine for a few secs, then idles way down and won't take the gas,(also it will run like that for a few minutes then idle up and run fine, then a few min later back to crap,back and forth) I've already tried/checked everything you mentioned. the only thing I'm not sure about is the mixture screws, I had some one else showing me how to clean the carbs and he may have moved them, but it was doing this before we even touched the carbs and I know he knows what he is doing so now I'm back at square on. Someone told me that it may need a valve adjustment, that that could cause it to do what it's doing.
 
Also , What would happen if the automatic timeing tentioner wasn't working, when i first got the bike about 6 months ago when you reved it up you could see the spring turn a bit, now it doesn't turn at all, It's not stuck cause I can turn it pretty freely by hand.
 
When you say it idles fine for a seconds then idles down, what rpm is it going when it "idles fine"?
 
ZQJim said:
Sorry I don't have a tach on mine.
Click to expand...
OK. Is the rpm quite a bit higher than "normal" idle rpm? I'm wondering if you may have an intake leak is why I ask.
 
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