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Help please.

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
Please someone help tryin to put carbs back on me Gs1000s with stock airbox
tried smearin some washing up liquid around rubbers with a my finger .
which is the best to get carbs on Engine end in first then push down.
please someone help i gettin angry and dont want to go back to the K&ns i had fitted.

Thanks
steve
 
Did you remove the carb to head intakes? If so they are side specific and marked as such. If you didn't remove them, then heat them a bit with a hair dryer, they may have hardened with age. Smear a bit of lubricant inside then slide the carbs home.
The carb to airbox boots are the same way-marked L and R. Over time they tend to harden and deform and become impossible to mount properly.
Not to worry they are readily available.

HTH
 
Help

Help

Thanks reply
the engine rubbers are nearly new .
the air box ones are not to bad 3 are quite soft one is a little hard
Its ages since had a airbox on cant rember how to locate the carbs.
the prob is over here in England can not buy the airbox rubbers anymore.

Thanks
steve
 
Put them on the engine first. Smear them with rubber grease then slide the carbs in.

Rubber grease is designed to protect rubber. Normal grease deteriorates rubber over time.

getImage2008.asp
 
Help

Help

Thanks for reply will have another go when im a bit happier.
 
I've done mine on my '79 GS1000 a number of times and have got the routine down pretty good. This applies to the VM carbs, you didn't say which yours where but most of it should apply. Firstly make sure the bracket/tower that holds the cables is removed, this can be easily put back on later and just gets in the way. Put the fuel hose on the carbs now. You also need to get the clutch cable out of the way, oil cooler lines if you have them and anything else that could be in the way. Make sure all the boots are relatively soft, the air box is loose and the airbox boot clamps are removed, you'll bend them if you leave them on. Working from the right side of the bike rotate the carbs about 45 degrees clockwise from their normal position and push them into the opening so the top of the manifold side of the carbs is just inside the intake tubes and the airbox side is just resting on top of the airbox boots. It helps at this point to spray something on the boots to make things slippery. I usually use some plastic/vinyl conditioner. Now it should be a simple matter of rotating the carbs into postion, you will be sort of collapsing the airbox boots as you do this so the more pliable they are the better. Now finish installing the rest of the parts and you're done. It's a bit of fiddle but that's the best way I've found. Good Luck!!!
 
Help

Help

Sorry these are good old 28mm slide,which i tried to fit with caples Attached (Dooh)
tried putting Engine side in first but problem Airbox Rubbers about a inch to long.
plus had a headache didnt help alot but will try again soon .
Big thanks for all the advice.

steve


ps please keep them comin.
 
I've never had to take the cables off.

To elaborate

1. Slide carb rack roughly into place from right side of bike
2. Airbox should not be bolted to the frame
3. Rotate front of carbs down past the lip of the intake boots, push in just a bit and rotate the front of the carb rack up a bit and push in - they should slide most of the way into the intakes - check the top and bottom of the intake boots to confirm that the carbs have slid in
4. Check all the intake clamps to make sure they're still rotated to the screws on the bottom - clutch cable is between 1-2 carbs

The carbs should be mostly in place at this point with the back of the carbs sitting on the airbox boots

5. Take a long handled flat blade screwdriver and place it between the airbox boot and the carb body - gently pry the boot part way across the carb mouth repeat across each carb - go back across the carbs and do it again with a bit of lube applied to the outside of the carb mouths

Now, the front of the carbs should be 99% into the intakes, and the back of the carbs almost in place - grab the rack and wiggle it to see if you can get everything in place

If not, gently pry the airbox boots in place and push until all boots are firmly in place

Bolt the airbox back in place

Screw all the clamps down

Do not use soap!!!! This is not a tire
Use a silicone grease, rubber lube or some other non petroleum lube on both ends of the carbs to help them slide with the boots
 
Zooks said:
Put them on the engine first. Smear them with rubber grease then slide the carbs in.

Rubber grease is designed to protect rubber. Normal grease deteriorates rubber over time.

getImage2008.asp
Click to expand...

Is this the same as what you use for Brake caliper seals?.
As they do smaller tubs on Ebay.
 
Done it ?

Done it ?

Just a update fitted Airbox test ridden Gs.
One question Though why the heck does it go better with stock air box,it pulls so much better down below ,not realy botherd how fast she goes.
Just got get carbs balanced and away we go.
 
I enjoyed the use of a Snap-On hook-shaped tool #A173 for the problem you described, on my old faithful 750C, for future reference.
 
gshub said:
Just a update fitted Airbox test ridden Gs.
One question Though why the heck does it go better with stock air box,it pulls so much better down below ,not realy botherd how fast she goes.
Just got get carbs balanced and away we go.
Click to expand...

It's called engineering. Some guy sat at a table with a slide rule, reference books and a lotta note paper to create that carb set up for the bike.

My blue 78 is "stock" and tuned for more midrange rather than HP. People are amazed when I pull out to pass a car or come out of a corner hard. Goes 40-80 in a blink of an eye, then keeps going. I don't need 10,000 rpm to get the job done.
 
Big T said:
It's called engineering. Some guy sat at a table with a slide rule, reference books and a lotta note paper to create that carb set up for the bike.

My blue 78 is "stock" and tuned for more midrange rather than HP. People are amazed when I pull out to pass a car or come out of a corner hard. Goes 40-80 in a blink of an eye, then keeps going. I don't need 10,000 rpm to get the job done.
Click to expand...

I have had a few lets say spirited rides against zx900rs and old ways managed to stay ahead up to 100ishmph the torque from a Gs dont half shock them esp two up.coming out of round abouts.
who needs to Rev 10000000000s rpm thats why my Gs has done 78800mls and no more than new rings and Gaskets.
 
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