Help with a stud!!

[albi]

Hi all,

Thanks very much for this wonderful website.

I've searched the archieves for the answer to my question, and received some good advice. Unfortunatly nothing has worked so far!

My problem is that one of the oil filter cover studs (6mm) has worn out, and I'm trying to replace it. I've got the new studs, however, can't get the old one out. This is what I've done so far.

1 - spray 'bolt-off' onto it.
2 - heated it with a butane torch
3 - squared off stud to get excellent grip with pliers
4 - tapped with hammer.

Nothing!

Can I please tap into your collective wisdom for some more ideas?

Thanks very much all,

Alex
Bundaberg, QLD Australia.

 

[Guest]

Wrong forum

 

[posplayr]

Ideas

Ideas

you should soak it with somthing like liquid wrench for a few days and then use the vice grips to twist it off. If it breaks use a left handed drill to drill down the center. Then easy out is the drill doesn't get it out.
The left handed drill is supposed to aid in uncrewing the stud.

Good Luck.
Pos

 

[Guest]

Easy out = Never out


Do you own a good pair of vice grips?

 

[albi]

Easy out = Never out


Do you own a good pair of vice grips?

Sure do. That's what I've been using to try to turn the stud. It just won't budge!

 

[Dink]

Get two nuts, thread one on as far down the stud as you can, fit a spanner onto it and leave it there, now put the second nut on and thread it down against the first nut, with another spanner tighten it down. now un-do the first nut.

Dink

 

[Nessism]

Get two nuts, thread one on as far down the stud as you can, fit a spanner onto it and leave it there, now put the second nut on and thread it down against the first nut, with another spanner tighten it down. now un-do the first nut.

Dink

What he said along with more heat and spray oil. At some point you just have to give it a go and apply some torque to either get it out or snap it off.

 

[bonanzadave]

Get two nuts, thread one on as far down the stud as you can, fit a spanner onto it and leave it there, now put the second nut on and thread it down against the first nut, with another spanner tighten it down. now un-do the first nut.

Dink

Sounds like the threads are already gone. He would have to weld a nut on.

 

[rustybronco]

squarely/smartly whack the end of the stud 25-50 times (I didn't say BASH it), that should loosen any corrosion between the aluminum block and steel stud.
grip it with vice jawed grips close to the block and cross your fingers.
do you have a torch with MAP gas available to use? if you do, then heat it after whacking it, let it cool down, grip and cross your fingers...

 

[gearman]

The premise of heating a corroded fastener is that it expands more than the surrounding metal because the contact area is somewhat insulated by the corrosion. This compresses the corrosion and reduces it's grip between the two members. In order for this to work, a lot of heat has to be applied quickly. The thermal expansion of aluminum makes this method less effective. Try heating until the aluminum gets very hot then quickly cool the stud and try turning it out. It's worth a shot.

 

[p_s]

I've never needed one, but maybe a stud puller would work?

 

[silverhorse47]

Butane is not hot enough to do you any good here. Use a propane torch at the very least. Heat the stud up red hot. At soon as it is cherry red, stop, and let it cool down.
When the stud is cool enough to touch but still very warm, spray some penetrating oil onto it. If the penetrating oil burns up, it is too hot. It might steam a little, but spray it on until the steaming stops.
Then let it all cool.
The cooling will suck the oil into any space and hopefully you will be able to use the vise grips on your squared off shaft to turn the stud out. Your vice grips should be right up against the casing....not out at the end of the stud. If you are confident that the vicegrips have a secure hold on the stud and can get the handle into the right place a smart 'pop' with a hammer will help. Also, threading a nut onto the end of the stud until it is flush with the end of the stud and popping straight down on the shaft, like hitting a nail with a hammer can help loosen corrosion.
If the stud has been installed with permanent locktite, you will need to heat it right to the deep end in order to release it. There is very little danger in doing this if you use propane, as the case is a huge heat sink. Hold the torch flame against the underside of of the exposed stud and just wait until the visible portion is cherry red.
If worse comes to worst, you will at least be able to easily saw the end of the stud off square, drill it out completely and use an easy out of the correct size to get out the last bits.
S.

 

[Shaughn]

If you've got enough remaining to file square and grab with vice grips, I'd suggest using bolt extractors (that work from the outside, not the inside like never-outs). Just tap on, and wrench off. They are a bit pricier, but you can buy smaller or larger sets to adjust the price point. This is something you want to buy a middle-good grade or better, as the quality of the hardness of the socket body and those splines is what does the work.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952162000P

 

[albi]

Thanks so much for all of your great suggestions!

What I ended up doing was welding a nut onto the end and simply extracting it using a regular socket set.