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Help with Flasher Relay (new relay not working)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Jeepfreak81
  • Start date Start date
bwringer said:
Oh, and:
Francis.jpg
Click to expand...

He ain't heavy he's my burden........
 
posplayr said:
O/g look again. Primary switch power from Signal fused circuit. I recognize the wire colors you snipped off. You have second gen TSCU. You need a two prong flasher or otherwise remove the third leg.
Click to expand...


Ok, so I almost hate to even bring this thread from yesterday back up but the rain finally stopped and I went out and unhooked my TSCU. I still get nothing using my 3 prong flasher.

So, before I give up and go buy a 2 prong flasher, what does remove the third leg mean? From what I can tell there's a hot wire (O/g), then your wire out that completes the circuit (light blue) and the black/blue wire presumably for the auto cancel.

If I hook my new relay up to the O/g, the light blue, and to ground....it doesn't work even with the TSCU unplugged I also tried switching the O/g and light blue wires, still no go.

Time to throw in the towel and get a 2 prong flasher like this one? http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-NO-5...g-standard+turn+signal+flasher#productDetails

Or am I missing something obvious again.
 
Jeepfreak81 said:
Ok, so I almost hate to even bring this thread from yesterday back up but the rain finally stopped and I went out and unhooked my TSCU. I still get nothing using my 3 prong flasher.

So, before I give up and go buy a 2 prong flasher, what does remove the third leg mean? From what I can tell there's a hot wire (O/g), then your wire out that completes the circuit (light blue) and the black/blue wire presumably for the auto cancel.

If I hook my new relay up to the O/g, the light blue, and to ground....it doesn't work even with the TSCU unplugged I also tried switching the O/g and light blue wires, still no go.

Time to throw in the towel and get a 2 prong flasher like this one? http://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-NO-5...g-standard+turn+signal+flasher#productDetails

Or am I missing something obvious again.
Click to expand...

Did read this; it is pretty specific and tells you what to do. If that doesn't work then there is another issue.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=2086505&postcount=7
 
That's what I was afraid of, because I hooked it up just like that diagram. strange thing is that with the old flasher it lights the bulbs up, they just don't blink so it seems like juice is getting everywhere it needs to.

Will double check my wiring to that diagram tomorrow....getting dark now. I really need a garage


EDIT - Just realized because I was following BikeCliff's site I think I was using terminal B for ground instead of E the whole time. Will change that tomorrow and give it another go.
 
Last edited:
Jeepfreak81 said:
That's what I was afraid of, because I hooked it up just like that diagram. strange thing is that with the old flasher it lights the bulbs up, they just don't blink so it seems like juice is getting everywhere it needs to.

Will double check my wiring to that diagram tomorrow....getting dark now. I really need a garage
Click to expand...

As I recall that schematics is correct. It takes a ground to activate the flasher on E. Ground is not one of the options on the original harness connections. You need to go to frame or battery (-)
 
Jeepfreak81 said:
That's what I was afraid of, because I hooked it up just like that diagram. strange thing is that with the old flasher it lights the bulbs up, they just don't blink so it seems like juice is getting everywhere it needs to.

Will double check my wiring to that diagram tomorrow....getting dark now. I really need a garage
Click to expand...
Would you be interested in a "quick and dirty" solution? :-k

Get an "equalizing resistor", wire one in one each side, as if it were a third turn signal bulb, enjoy your flashing signals with your stock flasher that will auto-cancel.

I have sort of followed this thread. Because I know how these things work, I am able to read "between the lines" and understand what is happening. What YOU are not grasping is that the third pin on the stock flasher is NOT connected to a ground. The third pin on your replacement flasher is LOOKING for a ground, which your TSCU does not supply (it is connected to the third pin). If you cut the wire that connects the TSCU and the flasher relay, then extend the part that is connected to the flasher and connect it to a ground point, it MIGHT work. I say "might" because there are several configurations for the three pins on a replacement flasher.

You can not just grab any 2-pin replacement flasher. Some of them are "heavy-duty", others are "standard". What you need is a "very light load" flasher that is likely NOT thermal-based. You have installed bulbs with lower current draw, they will not activate the stock thermal flasher, which is why they light up, but don't flash. The type of flasher that you need usually has a timer circuit to control the output. The timer needs power and ground connections, then will have a 'flashing' output. Your stock TSCU is being asked to provide a ground for the timer, it just won't do it.

Your options:
1. go back to stock bulbs (which will keep your auto-cancel)
2. install an equalizer (which will keep your auto-cancel)
3. install a 2-pin light-load flasher (you will lose your auto-cancel)
4. install a 3-pin flasher and re-wire the ground for it (you will lose your auto-cancel)
5. move to a state that does not require signals on older bikes, then rip them off completely.

.
 
Steve said:
Would you be interested in a "quick and dirty" solution? :-k

Get an "equalizing resistor", wire one in one each side, as if it were a third turn signal bulb, enjoy your flashing signals with your stock flasher that will auto-cancel.

I have sort of followed this thread. Because I know how these things work, I am able to read "between the lines" and understand what is happening. What YOU are not grasping is that the third pin on the stock flasher is NOT connected to a ground. The third pin on your replacement flasher is LOOKING for a ground, which your TSCU does not supply (it is connected to the third pin). If you cut the wire that connects the TSCU and the flasher relay, then extend the part that is connected to the flasher and connect it to a ground point, it MIGHT work. I say "might" because there are several configurations for the three pins on a replacement flasher.

You can not just grab any 2-pin replacement flasher. Some of them are "heavy-duty", others are "standard". What you need is a "very light load" flasher that is likely NOT thermal-based. You have installed bulbs with lower current draw, they will not activate the stock thermal flasher, which is why they light up, but don't flash. The type of flasher that you need usually has a timer circuit to control the output. The timer needs power and ground connections, then will have a 'flashing' output. Your stock TSCU is being asked to provide a ground for the timer, it just won't do it.

Your options:
1. go back to stock bulbs (which will keep your auto-cancel)
2. install an equalizer (which will keep your auto-cancel)
3. install a 2-pin light-load flasher (you will lose your auto-cancel)
4. install a 3-pin flasher and re-wire the ground for it (you will lose your auto-cancel)
5. move to a state that does not require signals on older bikes, then rip them off completely.

.
Click to expand...
Steve, I think he is finally on the right sheet of music and following plan 4. We will have to wait and see.
 
posplayr said:
Steve, I think he is finally on the right sheet of music and following plan 4. We will have to wait and see.
Click to expand...
There have been suggestions to "do this" and "do that", I just wanted to put them all together in one post for him. :D

.
 
posplayr said:
Steve, I think he is finally on the right sheet of music and following plan 4. We will have to wait and see.
Click to expand...

Ya that's the plan, I think I see where I went wrong mostly from rushing and not paying attention. Will let you guys know how it turns out tomorrow.
 
Jeepfreak81 said:
Ya that's the plan, I think I see where I went wrong mostly from rushing and not paying attention. Will let you guys know how it turns out tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Now you can join the choir and preach to the others. :D

We keep telling and telling, some guys keep resisting and resisting. Once in a while, we have a victory. :-\\\

It is said that "you can lead a horse to water, ..." and we often wonder "yeah, but why do we have to carry him there?"
icon_shrug.gif


.
 
Steve said:
Now you can join the choir and preach to the others. :D

We keep telling and telling, some guys keep resisting and resisting. Once in a while, we have a victory. :-\\\

It is said that "you can lead a horse to water, ..." and we often wonder "yeah, but why do we have to carry him there?"
icon_shrug.gif


.
Click to expand...

Now Steve, you are starting to get "snippy" :rolleyes:
 
I'll admit to not slowing down and double checking things today. I probably could have had it fixed had I been paying attention. However, at the beginning of this thread I felt I was being led this way and that and the assumption was made that I even know what the heck a TSCU was or where it was.

Now that I'm on the right track I hope to post my success tomorrow and be able to speak intelligently to the issue should anyone else need help with it.

I used to repair guitar electronics so it's not that I didn't get the diagrams or the idea behind them, it was that whole TSCU thing and my frustration got the best of me.

Either way, thanks to everyone's help thus far
 
I think I laid out just how to wire the current relay in order to get it working. I stopped trying when he stopped listening.
 
JTGS850GL said:
I think I laid out just how to wire the current relay in order to get it working. I stopped trying when he stopped listening.
Click to expand...

Wow, we're gonna start this again? Anyway it wasn't a matter of your diagram that was giving me issue. I understood that. It was the damn TSCU. Acronyms are not always the easiest thing to figure out when you are new to a forum.

That being said, I did have the B & E legs mixed up due to my oversight. So we'll give that a better go tomorrow.

I'm pretty sure I thanked everyone for their help once I was able to put all the pieces together. Bwringer's post is mostly what caused my aha moment. But I'm sure nobody here has made mistakes or overlooked things before :p

This site really is full of great information, the delivery sometimes could be a little softer, but I'll take it how I can get it!

Thanks again to all involved and hoping to report success tomorrow. No hard feelings
 
Jeepfreak81 said:
Wow, we're gonna start this again? Anyway it wasn't a matter of your diagram that was giving me issue. I understood that. It was the damn TSCU. Acronyms are not always the easiest thing to figure out when you are new to a forum.

That being said, I did have the B & E legs mixed up due to my oversight. So we'll give that a better go tomorrow.

I'm pretty sure I thanked everyone for their help once I was able to put all the pieces together. Bwringer's post is mostly what caused my aha moment. But I'm sure nobody here has made mistakes or overlooked things before :p

This site really is full of great information, the delivery sometimes could be a little softer, but I'll take it how I can get it!

Thanks again to all involved and hoping to report success tomorrow. No hard feelings
Click to expand...

You are in the company of ABOGOM





























A bunch of Grumpy old men
 
Success......Blinkers are a go! Soldered the wires together and shrink tubed them. Will find a good way to mount it tomorrow.
 
Ok, so I wired the 2 prong connection with no ground straight to the battery and it works like a charm, but I looked a little deeper into the wiring and there is a point where this guy soldered 4 different orange/green wires in a ****ty bundle into 3 going to I assume the fuses. Should I cut that **** out and make it a single wire from the flasher? It seems like there isn't enough power getting to the flasher. I'm tempted to wire straight to battery and get it over with.
 
Sorry for the bad language. Anyway, it seems like maybe there were some sort of other lights maybe wired in with the signals?
 
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