Her 550T

[Guest]

Nice one Rick! Love it when a plan comes together...

If it's anything like the 450, the clutch pushrod seal can be susceptible to failing and it's behind that cover... and also if it's like the 450 it shouldn't be too hard to replace without needing to split the crankcases.

 

[Guest]

Nice one Rick! Love it when a plan comes together...

If it's anything like the 450, the clutch pushrod seal can be susceptible to failing and it's behind that cover... and also if it's like the 450 it shouldn't be too hard to replace without needing to split the crankcases.

Thanks Pete. That's what Eric thinks also. It was getting to late last night to start pulling off everything to investigate. I hope you both are right and that it a simple seal replacement.

 

[Guest]

Cool. The 450 also has an oil seal behind the gear position indicator switch but I'm not sure if yours has that or not. That's even easier to replace than the clutch pushrod seal but it doesn't seem to be a common issue.

 

[Steve]

Nice to see a couple being into bikes together.

We took that concept a step further. Click on the "Family Portrait" link in my sig.

Bonnie wanted to do the center two bowls, but no one can see those. I wont be surprised to see them polished some time while I'm asleep tonight or at work tomorrow.

Maybe she can use these for some inspiration? :-k

Obviously, those are also "unseen", here is the rest of the bike:

.

 

[Guest]

Cool. The 450 also has an oil seal behind the gear position indicator switch but I'm not sure if yours has that or not. That's even easier to replace than the clutch pushrod seal but it doesn't seem to be a common issue.

I ordered all three seals, Gear position switch, gear shift rod, and the clutch rod. I can't find anything in my Haynes that tell how to remove the clutch seal and rod. It's bent a little and looks scared from a broken chain. I want to straighten the rod or maybe replace it if someone has a good one. It looks like there is a worn groove on the inside that might be causing my leak.

I took these last night and have removed the retaining plate(gold).

Bad photos, but you can see a difference from one side(scars) and the other (after rotation). If I try to pull out the rod it comes out about an inch and stops. That's when you can see the wear groove from inside the engine.

Anybody's help would be greatly appreciated in the removal of this seal and rod. Thanks in advance.
We also drained the oil again, removed the stator and clutch cover for polishing. I took off the VC to check the shims. It was clattering when I fired it up to check for leaks. I've got 2.70, 2.75, 2.80, and 2.85 shims to work with. Wish me luck.ray:

 

[Guest]

Ok Rick, that looks pretty much the same setup as the 450, easy!

Unfortunately, you have the 1 piece clutch pushrod... the good news though is that the reverse part number lookup shows it to be the same part number as used in the 80 - 82 450's... which means you can upgrade to the two piece pushrod while you're in there That makes things a lot easier as you can remove just the left piece without touching the clutch.

If your existing pushrod is bent, the two piece upgrade is even more justified

Here's the fiche for the '82 450EZ:

I have no experience with the one piece setup like you have, but I have a feeling you may need to remove the clutch to get the pushrod out as it has a threaded end.

Once you get the pushrod out of the way, the seal removal should be simple.

I believe the trick is to screw two woodscrews into it and use a pair of pliers to yank it out. As you can see by the fiche there's not a lot holding the seal in, which is why it has the retainer plate instead.

 

[Guest]

Ok Rick, that looks pretty much the same setup as the 450, easy!

Unfortunately, you have the 1 piece clutch pushrod... the good news though is that the reverse part number lookup shows it to be the same part number as used in the 80 - 82 450's... which means you can upgrade to the two piece pushrod while you're in there That makes things a lot easier as you can remove just the left piece without touching the clutch.

If your existing pushrod is bent, the two piece upgrade is even more justified

Here's the fiche for the '82 450EZ:

I have no experience with the one piece setup like you have, but I have a feeling you may need to remove the clutch to get the pushrod out as it has a threaded end.

Once you get the pushrod out of the way, the seal removal should be simple.

I believe the trick is to screw two woodscrews into it and use a pair of pliers to yank it out. As you can see by the fiche there's not a lot holding the seal in, which is why it has the retainer plate instead.

Thanks for the advice Pete, I've never taken a clutch apart on a bike. Is there any special tool needed? The second schematic for the 450 explains the rods relationship to the clutch. The drafter seems to have forgotten to ad a center line lining everything up. I get it now. I've ordered the two 450 rods, I hope they fit. Boulevard Suzuki doesn't have the 550 part listed for sale to check the numbers myself. I use them when I can, since I can pick it up from their brick and morter store, Deland Motersports.

 

[Guest]

update

update

I took the clutch apart to get the rod out, though my seals haven't shown up yet. Took it apart farther than needed, but I wanted to inspect everything. The rod could have been removed by just removing the the springs pressure plate and clutch thrust piece(11-17)Clutch looks ok, as does everything else. Any suggestions of maintenence while it's all apart?

Here'fs the ofending clutch rod, hope the two piece 450 rods work.
Notice the gouges on both side of were it rides in the seal. These are what was causing the oil leak. The seal actually looks good, but I'm going to replace it anyway.

No valve job either, the feeler gauges I bought a few months ago aren't fine enough to use here. I'll try to pick up some while I'm in Daytona tomorrow.
It looks nice and clean up there.

 

[Guest]

Got the rods Pete, hope it works, but it sure looks different. I'll find out tomorrow, the important parts are the same, length, width at seal.

 

[Guest]

Excellent Rick, sorry I lost track of this thread for a bit.

Your existing rod certainly looks like it's had a hard life and the two piece should make it easier to maintain in future.

Hopefully the seals go in and play nice and the pushrod is an easy swap too.

I'm no clutch guru but I suspect just check the spring free length and plate thicknesses to make sure all is good and in spec while you've got it apart.

 

[Guest]

Excellent Rick, sorry I lost track of this thread for a bit.

Your existing rod certainly looks like it's had a hard life and the two piece should make it easier to maintain in future.

Hopefully the seals go in and play nice and the pushrod is an easy swap too.

I'm no clutch guru but I suspect just check the spring free length and plate thicknesses to make sure all is good and in spec while you've got it apart.

No problem nothings been going on but Bonnie polishing her parts when she has the time and waiting for the new parts to arrive. If the rods don't work Eric says he has one he can send and there are a couple of guys south of me that have 450's that might need spare parts.
I'm guessing that spring free length would be under zero compression. I have some slippage on SuzyII (my 1000G) under hard throttle in higher rpms, could that be from the springs and if so could they be bought seperatly or only as a set. Do they(GS engines) all use the same springs? Reason being is I have parts engines(8v and 16v 750s) laying around just waiting to start donating parts to the cause. Hard to check cross reference parts numbers on my phone, but I can find out later on the puter after work.

 

[Steve]

Do they(GS engines) all use the same springs? Reason being is I have parts engines(8v and 16v 750s) laying around just waiting to start donating parts to the cause.

Apparently not. I just checked part numbers for your 550.
Those springs (09440-19004) were used up through 650s.
The 8-valve and 16-valve 750s share the same spring (09440-19007), and it's the same one that also goes through the chain-driven 1100s.
The 1000 shafty has a third number (09440-19003) that it shares with the early 850s.
The 1100 shafty has yet another spring (09440-19013) that it shares with the later 850s.

All of those springs are also used in many other bikes, trikes, quads, etc. Some are street bikes, some are dirt bikes, but the question was about GS bikes.

.

 

[Guest]

So much for that idea. Thanks for looking that up Steve.

 

[Guest]

Pretty sure you measure the spring free length (uncompressed) to determine they're still serviceable...

 

[Guest]

I got the rods and seals swaped out and it looks like the 450 two piece rod will do the job and it will make replaceing the rod alot easier if a chain mishap should ever occure again. Good call Pete, I hope others will catch on to this. Wont know for sure untill it's all buttoned up. Bonnie should finish polishing the covers today. I'll have to pick up some clear afterwork. I forgot it when I picked up some VHT 127 to touch up the engine. We're just going to mask everything off instead of yanking the exhaust and pulling the engine. No need to risk broken exhaust bolts when it doesn't leak. Itching to try out the gears under load. The clutch checked out by what I found in the manual. We'll post some photos later.

 

[Guest]

Good stuff Rick! I've given the two rod hint to 450 owners plenty of times, but I wasn't aware it worked for the 550 until I saw that fiche for yours.

Hopefully it's good to go!

 

[Guest]

We're back in business. Bonnie has the cover buffed and I gut new gaskets and with the help of new ss allen head screw kit off ebay all the covers are back on. The supplier listed the 550T in the kit discription, but it was short of the long screws for the sprocket and I'm not sure if there is enough to use for the VC. The shims came in and have been swapped out. All 4 exhausts and the #4 intake though within tolerence, close enough go ahead and take care of it now for a no worries bike. That's all for the moment. I'll try to post pics soon.

 

[Guest]

Excellent Rick! Lookin' forward to the pic's

 

[Guest]

Update

Update

Sunday 6-2-13

Well it's been a little while since we've posted. I've been busy with a local friends bike. So to catch up we've flushed the break fluids and installed new pads. Had to clean and repaint the rear caliper, the inside piston was stuck. Reassembly and some bleeding and things are looking up.

Hooked the shift lever back up and put the foot peg back on. Shifter linkage is a little too sloppy for my taste, so I'll have a look see for a good replacement. Also installed the new choke cable, the old one was frozen.

Stuck the battery back in, installed the tank and filled it with a couple of gallons of fresh gas. Checked all the lights and everything worked, but the break light via the hand brake. Can't have everything go perfectly first time. I had Bonnie replace the lever the other day, as it was broken. She thought it might be something she did, but the switch is under the lever so theres no harm she could have done.

Ok, key on, clutch pulled in, hit the starter switch button, and she turned over, but I forgot to pull the choke on. I try again and now nothing. Blew the main fuse. Replaced it with a spare and she fired up. She was starting to warm up and nothing. Everything went dead. Blew the main fuse again. Arrrrgh. Replaced it with another and refired it up again, well I tried to. It wouldn't catch, pulled the choke on and she fired up for a few seconds and quit.

Hooked the jumper and tried again and again, nothing. Ether worked, but it would quit. The petcock took a dump, so I hooked up my portable tank and she roared back to life again until it blew the fuse again. Enough for the night, I was all out of 15 amp fuses, and I needed to figure this out before I melt something.