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Here we go with oil question again

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Read enough oil posts for my eyes to start glazing over. But can't find anything about oil ratings. Went to Kmart to get 10w-40 which the manual suggests but can't find any oil in the store that is SE rated. Lots of other stuff on it though. It is just your run of the mill castrol gtx for $2 per quart.
This one says API Service SM. It also says "exceeds the engine protection requirements of ILSAC, GF-4, GF-3 and GF-2, for API certified gas engine oils. Then, under the circle thingy it sais API service SM,SL,SJ, and SH. So, can I use this stuff or do I need to spend $5 per quart at the suzuki dealer? thanks.
 
I don't know where you are located, but i get motorcycle specific oil at Canadian Tire for a reasonable price.
 
The newer oil standards are just that much better than the old. SL or SM oils will work in place of any of the earlier standards like SE. A new car sold today will specify SL or SM in its owner's manual, but will be fed the new standards (SN, SO, etc.) at the quick-lube as those oils become available. I've used 10W-40 GTX SL grade recently: My next case will probably read SM.

I continue to use Mobil-1 15W-50 synthetic car oil whenever I can. I substitute a cheaper conventional car oil if I have a very short oil change interval before winter storage - then I put it to bed with a belly full of fresh synthetic stuff.
 
I used Castrol 20w-50 in my bikes for many years. Never had a problem with it. I started using Mobil1 15w-50 synthetic 3 years ago. The bike runs cooler and seemingly smoother with it. I'm sticking with it. I see no reason to use the high priced specialty motorcycle oils when both of these oils exceed the oil specs required for my bikes.

Earl
 
How will I know what stuff will mess up my clutch? Is there a certain code on the label to avoid?
 
earlfor said:
I used Castrol 20w-50 in my bikes for many years. Never had a problem with it. I started using Mobil1 15w-50 synthetic 3 years ago. The bike runs cooler and seemingly smoother with it. I'm sticking with it. I see no reason to use the high priced specialty motorcycle oils when both of these oils exceed the oil specs required for my bikes.

Earl
Click to expand...

I hate to agree with you Earl but i had the exact same results. :D
I also use discount auto parts 20-50 when i get cheap--it seems just fine when i change the oil every 1 or 2 K miles
 
ericp said:
How will I know what stuff will mess up my clutch? Is there a certain code on the label to avoid?
Click to expand...

If the label is marked "Energy Conserving" you should be concerned. However, I have never seen this marking on any oil heavier than a 30 weight (ie: 10W-30), and the oils I use have a 40 or 50 weight designation on the high end.
 
i made a great deal last year with a local yamaha dealer for several cases of yamalube 20W40, each with 4 gal containers.

the gk runs just fine.
 
I was changing the Castrol 20w50 every 1500-2000 miles. I change the Mobil 1 about every 2500-3000 miles. The Mobil 1 still looks pretty clean at that milage and on my last internal check of the crank, bearing and sump, there was no sludge buildup or unusual wear patterns. In fact, the inside of the engine looks like new. :-) With the slightly extended time on oil changes, the cost is prettty close to the same as I was spending before.

Earl

displaced said:
I hate to agree with you Earl but i had the exact same results. :D
I also use discount auto parts 20-50 when i get cheap--it seems just fine when i change the oil every 1 or 2 K miles
Click to expand...
 
earlfor said:
I used Castrol 20w-50 in my bikes for many years. Never had a problem with it. I started using Mobil1 15w-50 synthetic 3 years ago. The bike runs cooler and seemingly smoother with it. I'm sticking with it. I see no reason to use the high priced specialty motorcycle oils when both of these oils exceed the oil specs required for my bikes.

Earl
Click to expand...

I have also switched to mobil 1 15w50 car oil. no problems, and runs great.
 
cloudbreakmd said:
Walmart... Shell Rotella Oil
Click to expand...

Amen. 15W-40. Love it. Just changed my oil the other day. 2300 miles and still fairly clean and the bike was as smoothe as when i put it in. Love this stuff and only $7 for 4 qts at Wally Mart. We had discussions at the GS Rally, and Dana was saying that Rotella ranked really high. Comparable to the synthetics (not full synthetics - the mix).

DON'T Use the Energy Conserving oils. From what I've read, that is mostly with the 10W 30 oils. Look for the enerfy conserving star, then avoid it. It'll cause clutch slippage.

On another note: When I used Castrol, I had serious clutch slippage at about 800 miles. Haven't gone back and never had it happen again. From everyone I've talked to, no one else had this problem with Castrol. :?: :?:
 
Another 2cents. I tried a 20W50 and had problems with the clutch sticking. Had to rock it loose after it sat overnight. Seemed to be fine once it warmed up. I decided that since I had the clutch it was probably better to use the spec weight (10W40). Since I'm a beleiver in synethetics I use the Castrol blend for about $2.50 at NAPA. The guy who earlier talked about the "SE" spec was right on. Any oil with a higer spec 9 (i.e. SF, SG, SL, SN) is just as good or better. THERE IS NOT DEFINITIVE SOURCE YOU CAN GO TO FOR THE BEST OIL. Any major brand that meets the Suzuki spec will do you right.
 
Why doesn't anyone use the
extended performance 10w-40 Mobil 1? Wouldn't this be the correct wieght to use? I know my gs1000 calls for 10w-40. There is also a 0w-40 and a 5w-40 in regular Mobil 1. Is there a good reason to use 20w-50 wieght?

I saw on their web site they now have a Mobil 1 MX4T 10W-40 motorcycle oil and a couple other wieghts also. I would guess they charge premium for these though. Is the 20w-50 you guys are using the motorcycle oil?
 
Ouch, I just found some online prices $$$$$ for the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil. Someone has lost their mind.
 
Re: Professional Oil Test

Re: Professional Oil Test

David Goodrode said:
http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm
This is a very good test of oils, auto vs cycle, the interesting part is near the end of the article, heck of a good test.
Click to expand...

That 'was' a very good test. Was being the word, here. But, that information is 11 years old now. All oil formulations have changed since then. Mobil 1 alone has gone thru three changes since that test!
 
Rock said:
Why doesn't anyone use ... 10w-40 ...? Wouldn't this be the correct weight to use?
Click to expand...

Think of your recommended 10W-40 as the all-season oil. The 10W part gives you good flowability in the coldest weather for cold starts. The 40 part gives reasonable protection on the hottest days in stop and go traffic. If you could only run one oil all year, that would be suitable.

Now, if you only ride in the warmer seasons like me, you don't need the same cold start flowability as someone riding in sub-zero temperatures, but you would want the best protection in the hot season. The Mobil-1 car oil I use has adequate 15W flowability when cold, and 50 viscosity when hot for better protection.

Remember, too, that an oil with a narrow range (ie: 20-40 instead of 10-40) will retain its stated big number viscosity longer as fewer polymer additives are necessary to maintain the big number viscosity: Those polymers break down over time, causing the big number viscosity to drop. More polymers equals more degradation of viscosity.

If I was in a really hot climate, I'm sure I'd seek out a 20W-50 oil.
 
Re: Professional Oil Test

Re: Professional Oil Test

jimcor said:
that information is 11 years old now. All oil formulations have changed since then. Mobil 1 alone has gone thru three changes since that test!
Click to expand...

It sounds like you'd agree with me that the point to remember is that Mobil-1 car oil is even better than when tested, as are all the suitable car oils. They're certainly adequate for my use, and they continue to be much cheaper than the motorcycle-specific oils.
 
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