hex bits for impact screwdriver

[avow]

Hi,

I am trying to find 6mm hex bit for impact screwdriver with 5/16" shank. I need to remove the exhaust to change the side stand which was morphed when the bike fell over while in tow. I can't find the right thing on Amazon. Any recommendations? I'm happy to by a different impact screwdriver.

Also is there a thread that talks about exhaust removal?

Thanks!

 

[steve murdoch]

No info on the hex bit but i would use a penetrating oil [Kroil, PBBlaster]on the bolts and run it through a couple heat cycles to let it creep into place.

 

[Nessism]

Red flag if you are contemplating an impact to help remove the exhaust. It shouldn't be necessary. Impacts are good for removing engine side cover screws but not a whole lot more for a GS.

Regarding removing the exhaust the biggest challenge is removing the header bolts. There are hundreds of examples of guys hamfisting the job and busting them off. If you are careful and read up on the proper procedure before begging you shouldn't fall into this trap.

 

[avow]

Thanks Nessism, where can I read up on this? I don't want to ham-fist it!

edit: I found this link -- http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff1/images/Replacing_Exhaust_Connectors.pdf

 

[Nessism]

Use a 1/4" short handle ratchet wrench when trying to remove the header bolts. Spray them with penetrating lube everyday for a week before attempting the removal too. If they don't come out with medium force on that small wrench get a torch and heat the bolts good and hot and keep going on the pent. lube. Just never force the screw or it will break off.

 

[bwringer]

Agreed. DO NOT use an impact on these. Unless you really enjoy hours of fairly difficult drilling. These bolts start out as the usual Suzuki cheddar cheese and get incredibly weak and brittle after a few decades of corrosion and a few thousand heat cycles; they're basically glass.

That said, if yours are socket head then they have probably been replaced; I'm pretty sure stock were just normal hex head bolts. So they may be a bit stronger than the originals, but have still been subjected to some unknown amount of corrosion, time, and heat cycling. The advice to use penetrating oil, time, 1/4" drive tools, and exquisite patience and gentleness still applies.





But... to answer the original question in case you need to know in some other more appropriate situation... on most hand impacts, you can pull the nose off to reveal a standard 1/2" square drive. I believe I had actual gray in my beard before I discovered this.

This set of 1/2" drive hex impacts at Horror Fright is fantastic quality - made in Taiwan, not China, and with a coupon, a very good value. I use them with an air impact to extract damper rod bolts in about 1/10 second.
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-hex-socket-set-67895.html

Put 'em together and there ya go...

That said, the hand impacts at HF are awful, awful quality. Don't waste your money. The same chromed Chinese crap is sold under many different brand names, but avoid them all. Avoid the ones with plastic handles, too.

This Lisle is the one you want -- often you can find these at larger auto parts stores:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-30200-...pID=41aG0Si0UiL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

The exact same tool is also available from Sears under the Craftsman name, if you'd like to gamble a bit on Sears' continued existence:
https://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P

Make sure you get the 1/2" drive version, not the 3/8"

 

[Guest]

The Vessel impact drivers & bits are JIS & made in Japan.
https://www.vesseltools.com/handtools/screwdrivers/impact

Some of their tools are available on Amazon, eBay, etc.