Hey guys, Another charging issue.. :)

[Anonymous]

Hey guys,
Before i start i just want to thank everyone who has helped me in the past! You guys are great and i love the web site!

This is another Charging question.. and i see that in the last 10 topics there are like 4 charging issues... so i hope you guys don't get mad at me..

Let me start again with my bike information.....
1982 Suzuki GS1100GLZ
24,000miles i think..
about 2 months ago.. RE did the carbs... ETC....
The bike Runs really well.. It takes about 5 mins to warm up.. and then its awesome..
Battery is pretty much new,.. only bought 5 months ago.. once a week its on my trickle charger.
All the electrical connections are old.. but have been looked through and made sure there is continuity between ALL connections.

Here is the situation.....
I have 13+/- volts at the battery.. Did a load test on the battery.. Battery is good.
Checked the Stator usuing the stator papers. All legs are hitting about 75 volts(AC) at around 5 grand (RPM).
Checked my regulator.. and IT checks out to be good.. Good resistance etc..
With everything pluged in r/r and stator.. etc... the battery sees 12.6 to 12.75 at IDLE...
when the engine is revving at around 5 grand.. its only hitting around 13.5.
Some where in the stator papers its says the charging ranges from 13.5 to 14+ is good.... So i thought all is well.
BUT.. when i drive the bike for about 20 mins... i check my battery voltage... and its like at 11.4 volts. I AM LIKE WHAT THE HELL???????even one time i drove it for 20 mins and the bike would not start afterwards.... it really SUCKED...

I know the r/r is charging the battery.. i know the stator works.. so whats happening.. I know the wattage from all the lights and stuff are there.. but still.. shouldn't it still recharge.... SOOOOO

I bought a BRAND NEW regulator from a guy on ebay..(thats what he said) and as soon as i plug it in and turn the bike on.. it blows my MAIN fuse.. and everytime i turn the bike on.. it blows... and i am like.. whats the deal..

so.. with all that.. my orginal stuff checks out... and charges.. but for some reason its not enough.. and my new regulator is blowing fuses..

ANY IDEAS.. please feel free to email me
THanks for ALL your help guys!
take care

George

 

[Anonymous]

George,
I had similar voltage readings to your's. And I was getting 80 volts on each leg of my stator. ( see my recent post "charging sytem puzzle).

Anyway, Gremlin suggested this test. And alas, I had a short in my Electrix stator. If you have not tested for that yet. Give it a try and let us know what you find.
And Thanks again Gremlin, you saved me!

gremlin wrote:
try this warm up your bike shut off the bike. put the neg - led on the motor case ware its good and grounded.

disconnect the stator. put the positve + led, on each leg of the stator wires.

set the meter for contunety, or ohms. if it reads 0 ohms or beeps on contunety, you have a shorted out winding.

Charlie

 

[focus frenzy]

the diods in the rectifier section of your "new" regulator are toast, that is why it blows the fuse.
do the test Charlie posted, you should have no continuity from the stator wires to ground, if you do the stator is shorted out.

what make is the battery you have?
if it is a generic econo auto parts store battery made in Tiawan chunk it and get a Yuasa.
during my ongoing battle with Electrex, they said I should try a new battery and see if it cures my problem, I was running a Yuasa battery but could not pick up another due to dealer being closed so I got a O'Rilley auto generic 14L-A2 battery, filled it and charged it for the required time, it is weaker than the Yuassa, it has a harder time cranking my bike over, with a good Suzuki R&R it shows to be charging within specs (up to 14 volts) let it sit overnight and the voltage shows 12.4 in the morning. i put the 6 month old Yuassa battery in and the voltage comes up faster and reaches 14.3 volts and after it sits over night it has 12.8 volts in the morning, it also spins over the engine faster.

 

[Anonymous]

during my ongoing battle with Electrex quote]

Interesting: On my electrex stator. The insulation totally deteriorated on the 3 leads where they joined the stator. Allowing the short. The new Ricks stator had a addtional sheathing over the wires at that same spot.
It was also less about $20 less. $140 with free shipping.
Ordered on a Monday afternoon and showed up Wed Morn.

Charlie

 

[duaneage]

during my ongoing battle with Electrex quote]

Interesting: On my electrex stator. The insulation totally deteriorated on the 3 leads where they joined the stator. Allowing the short. The new Ricks stator had a addtional sheathing over the wires at that same spot.
It was also less about $20 less. $140 with free shipping.
Ordered on a Monday afternoon and showed up Wed Morn.

Charlie

I would go the Honda regulator mod route and end the madness.

 

[focus frenzy]

during my ongoing battle with Electrex quote]

Interesting: On my electrex stator. The insulation totally deteriorated on the 3 leads where they joined the stator. Allowing the short. The new Ricks stator had a addtional sheathing over the wires at that same spot.
It was also less about $20 less. $140 with free shipping.
Ordered on a Monday afternoon and showed up Wed Morn.

Charlie

I would go the Honda regulator mod route and end the madness.

agreed! I am going to research what Honda regulators have the highest capacity and fit. (I am running a high output stator)

 

[Anonymous]

Thanks alot guys,

Thanks alot guys,

I am going to try that method to see if my stator is at fault. BUT.. if it is not... then what should i do?

I do have that battery from Walmart.. i forget the name of it.. but it keeps a good voltage.. i will order a battery this week.. you waid Yuasa... i have an account with them.. so that should be no problem..

My original regulator is fine i am assuming..

I was wondering.. Whats another regulator (honda etc...) that i can use... and does it matter.. For example.. if i have my 1100.. will a 700 cc bike work ? or vise versa..... Or like a honda gold wing's regulator to my bike.. will that work..
Just need some ideas...
This really sucks.. right when i thouight my bike is road worthy.. another problem occurs. I just wish i can just fix it and RIDE IT!!

Thanks again for all your time guys... you guys are awesome!!!!
.. any other comments or advice.. please let me know

George
1982 GS 1100 GLZ

 

[IanFrancisco]

You should check you regulator to be sure its output is getting into the battery with no power loss due to bad grounds etc. The stator papers on this site are good if not completely accurate. My new Electrex RR for example does not show 1.5 volts when tested with the red test lead connected to the red output wire (diode test mode). Shows OL. Does show .5 volts when tested with the black test lead connected to the red wire. My stator was putting out 50VAC at about 4500rpm so I thought it might be a little weak. Did the ground test where you connect the red test lead to the battery ground and the black test lead to the RR ground. I saw + .35 volts there! Ground to ground! Means the ground was robbing power and making the stator work too hard (overheats - not good). Nowhere for the extra power from the stator to go when the battery fills up. I ran another ground wire straight from the RR to the battery and saw voltage drop down to + .16V. Per the stator papers anything under .20V is good. You also have to check the positive (red) wires. The output from the RR goes through the fuse and all its connectors back to the battery in the standard wiring scheme. If there's any corrosion or less than perfect connections, again, all the power from the charging system is not getting back into the battery. Some guys solder all those connections and eliminate the flaky connectors. I wouldn't bypass the fuse though. It's there for a reason. Don't burn up yer bike with an electrical fire! I've read about guys having good luck with the regulator from a Honda CX500...

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Thanks alot guys,

Re: Thanks alot guys,

I am going to try that method to see if my stator is at fault. BUT.. if it is not... then what should i do?

I do have that battery from Walmart.. i forget the name of it.. but it keeps a good voltage.. i will order a battery this week.. you waid Yuasa... i have an account with them.. so that should be no problem..

My original regulator is fine i am assuming..

I was wondering.. Whats another regulator (honda etc...) that i can use... and does it matter.. For example.. if i have my 1100.. will a 700 cc bike work ? or vise versa..... Or like a honda gold wing's regulator to my bike.. will that work..
Just need some ideas...

George
1982 GS 1100 GLZ

Ok,
I would not automaticly presume the Wallmart battery is bad. I have one and have had excellent service out of it so far.

When I was fighting the charger system blues. I put some comments together from various GSR members to help guide me on my search for a
replacement RR. Just bits from many different posts. Sorry I don't have the credits to give out.

Or haunt eBay for a Honda reg/rect. I nabbed one from a CM400 a while back for about $12 including shipping.

USES ARE FROM HONDA 400 AND 450 TWINS IN THE YEARS OF 1978 TO 1982-

Here it is Christmas Day and I just found out the following. My 1100 has a 1980 CX500 R/R on it.

put a used 1980 KZ1000 regulator on
my 1980 GS1000. Holes lined up perfectly.
Works great... best of all $7.00 on ebay

For a GS550E a Honda CB250/400N (Superdream

The RR you guys are talking about is the Shindengen SH232-12

Mine was from a 650 Shadow a Shindengen SH535A-12 6.1.
The wiring was a little different, 3 yellow wires one to each of the stator wires, red to +12V, black to -12V, orange to switched +12V....Mike

the SH238-12 is the way to go, whilst getting one from a "boneyard" is cheaper it is still an old part, I prefer to fit new parts, and hence recommend the new one.
Dink
_________________

There seems to be a lot of confusion going on with the Honda R/R's and their numbers. Different R/R numbers show up on the same bikes and vice-versa by the looks of it. It looks like you can't reliably go by a lot of the numbers but what you are looking for is one that has the capacity to handle your charging needs. Many of the older Honda R/R's from the 400's on up will work. What you are looking for is that you have the three yellow wires coming from the R/R for the stator connections, a wire (mine was green and had two, some are black) for the ground and/or negative to the battery, a wire (mine was red and had two) for the positive battery connection and sometimes a smaller gauge wire (mine was black, some are brown) that goes to a switched positive 12V source. If it has this extra small gauge wire it must be hooked up. Mine was a SH538-12 from a Honda GL500 Silverwing which is probably a heavier duty regulator than the standard ones and why it probably had the extra ground and positive wires. If you're not confused enough already there is more info and a wiring diagram available by doing a search for "choosing a honda r/r"

Charlie

 

[Anonymous]

Hey guys

Hey guys

Hey landscape...

Well i did the test that someone told you to do.. for the stator..
let me tell you how i did the test(basically how you said it)

Warmed up the bike....
disconnected the stator r/r connector...
connected my dvom by hooking the BLACK LEED to chasis ground.. and then i connected the RED LEED to each leg of the stator..
well when i did the continuity check. i get continuity with all 3 legs.. and also i get some ohm reading to on all legs..

so does this mean my stator is gone? and all this time i thought it was my R/R hehehe.. please let me know.. i am going to take it apart now and see... but please let me know
thanks
GEORGE

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Hey guys

Re: Hey guys

Hey landscape...

Well i did the test that someone told you to do.. for the stator..
let me tell you how i did the test(basically how you said it)

Warmed up the bike....
disconnected the stator r/r connector...
connected my dvom by hooking the BLACK LEED to chasis ground.. and then i connected the RED LEED to each leg of the stator..
well when i did the continuity check. i get continuity with all 3 legs.. and also i get some ohm reading to on all legs..

so does this mean my stator is gone? and all this time i thought it was my R/R hehehe.. please let me know.. i am going to take it apart now and see... but please let me know
thanks
GEORGE

George,
Yes I believe your stator is toast. You had the same situation and voltage readings that I had, when my stator was fried. I also had 75-80 volts per leg, and I also thought it was my RR.

BTW, I bought a low mileage SH232-12 RR from a CX500. It works great. I actually bought another SH232-12 while still thinking my RR was the problem. Plus the Electrix, So now I have 2 backup RR's.

And yes, it is wonderful to be back on the road again!

Let us know what you find.
Charlie

 

[Anonymous]

Hey landscape

Hey landscape

The question i forgot to ask....

I was wondering.. i know that we can mix and match R/R all day long... but how about the stator? is that also possible to change around too? which one would you recommend? also.. would a normal starter alternator rebuil place fix it?

what do you think?



let me know..
also when you said "BTW, I bought a low mileage SH232-12 RR from a CX500. It works great. I actually bought another SH232-12 while still thinking my RR was the problem. Plus the Electrix, So now I have 2 backup RR's. "

Did you mean that you wanted to sell one.. or.. just mentioning that you bought them for no reason? hehehe..

anyway
thanks again for you help!
George
"

 

[Anonymous]

Re: Hey landscape

Re: Hey landscape

The question i forgot to ask....

I was wondering.. i know that we can mix and match R/R all day long... but how about the stator? is that also possible to change around too? which one would you recommend? also.. would a normal starter alternator rebuil place fix it?

what do you think?



let me know..
also when you said "BTW, I bought a low mileage SH232-12 RR from a CX500. It works great. I actually bought another SH232-12 while still thinking my RR was the problem. Plus the Electrix, So now I have 2 backup RR's. "

Did you mean that you wanted to sell one.. or.. just mentioning that you bought them for no reason? hehehe..

anyway
thanks again for you help!
George
"

http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...9&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=

Check out this Thread for Stator options.

I don't think a starter/alternator place would repair. At least I have not heard of anyone trying that route.

As for my extra RR's. I have to plug them into my bike to check that they are good. I have not really thought about reselling them.
If they are proven good. I thought it might be a good public service, to mail them to other GSR members who wanted to help diagnose charging problems. I sure wish I had a proven known good RR when I was fighting my charging problems.
Charlie

 

[Anonymous]

Hey Charles

Hey Charles

Hey ,

I just want to thank you for all your help! i know i was kinda getting annoying.. but i once said this before.. If it was a CAR.. i can diagnose it in one minute! But when it comes to bikes.. things are a little different!

Just want to let you guys know.. if you ever have an issue with a car... i know this is not the place for it.. but just email me..
i can try to help you....


thanks again Charles...
thanks everyone who helped...
George
maluman@gmail.com