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high idle

  • Thread starter Thread starter scrapper
  • Start date Start date
S

scrapper

Guest
I was wondering I got carbs back on reajusted the boots, finally got the engine to start. It was rough getting it started before I removed the carbs and reinstalled then it fired up and runs great. I think there may be a problem with the idle. It is idling about 2500 rpm's. When it first started it idled about 1000, but went up after I reved several times.I read a couple of things here and was wondering if when I bench synced I used a wooden match. Maybe it was to thick? I have the big screw comepletely unscrewed, the main one that I used to adjust the first carb when doing the bench sync. I have two more problems also a fuel leak on the fuel line filter? not sure what it is, very small and clear? Can this be replaced with a car filter? And the fuel drain screw is leaking after trying to replace the rubber with a flat rubber washer. any idea on what to use to replace them? I didn't try to just leave it bear, would that be a possiblity? I will say it runs great sounds really good,great idea replacing the boots and doing o-rings in the carbs. I have not made a sync tool yet so have not tried to sync it running. Oh, this is a 82 650L.
 
Several questions here, let's address them one at a time.
scrapper said:
I think there may be a problem with the idle. It is idling about 2500 rpm's. When it first started it idled about 1000, but went up after I reved several times.
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Usually, if the idle goes up as the bike warms up, it's an intake leak. Most common cause is the o-ring in the intake runners. You could have (should have) ordered those o-rings along with the carb o-rings.


scrapper said:
I read a couple of things here and was wondering if when I bench synced I used a wooden match. Maybe it was to thick? I have the big screw comepletely unscrewed, the main one that I used to adjust the first carb when doing the bench sync.
Click to expand...
Might have been, but how did you adjust to it? To do a bench sync, adjust the master idle speed control to open #3 carb just a tiny bit. Some insert wooden matches, some insert drill bits, others insert bread wrap ties, I just shine a light from the other side to see that it's open. Now adjust the other carbs to match that opening, then turn the master idle speed control down so the bike does not race at idle. If you look through the carb throats, you should see that they are all opening the same amount at the same time, but should all close completely when you turn down the idle control knob.


scrapper said:
I have two more problems also a fuel leak on the fuel line filter? not sure what it is, very small and clear? Can this be replaced with a car filter?
Click to expand...
Using a car filter is not a good idea. All cars have pressurized fuel systems, so fuel if forced through the filter. We have gravity-fed systems and don't have nearly the force to push gas through a car filter. A better choice is to go the lawn mower department at Lowe's and get a filter for a lawn tractor. However, if your tank is relatively clean and your petcock filter is intact, an extra filter is not usually needed. They usually cause more problems than they fix.


scrapper said:
And the fuel drain screw is leaking after trying to replace the rubber with a flat rubber washer. any idea on what to use to replace them? I didn't try to just leave it bear, would that be a possiblity?
Click to expand...
Again, these should have been orderd when you ordered the carb o-rings. The set of four would have only cost a penny at time of order, not sure if you can get them separately from cycleorings.com.


scrapper said:
I have not made a sync tool yet so have not tried to sync it running.
Click to expand...
Save yourself a LOT of time and aggravation. BUY a sync tool. The Motion Pro (from Z1) is about $85. A better choice (according to most of the members here) is the Morgan Carbtune. It comes from England, and the Dollar is strong against the British Pound right now, so it will only run about $90 instead of the $120 that it cost only a few months ago.

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I got o-rings, boots, carb o-rings and ss bolts for intake. I will double check to make sure it is all tight. Tank seems clean from what I can see? I have never seen what ever this thing is. It is cone shaped and clear looks like a strainer inside. I will change fuel line so it is one piece. I thought intake leak would make it run rough. It seems to be ready to go? If it wasn't for the ice and snow I would have at least run it up and down the alley.I did not know that I needed the drain rubber gasket. I am very new to motorcycles. This is my first, still have permit didn't have time to ride very much last year. I will try to attend motorcycle safety course this year, with my daughter. To much overtime last year around 70 hours a week. I may try to locate filter on petcock, make sure there is one.
 
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While you are replacing your fuel line......remove your fuel petcock and check out the filter. It will give you a good indication of the condition of the inside of your tank. If it's nasty, it's going to need to be repaired before starting the bike with the new fuel line. Ya don't want a bunch of rusty junk (if it's in there) to be going into your nicely rebuilt carbs.:)
 
scrapper said:
I may try to locate filter on petcock, make sure there is one.
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To verify presence/condition of the filter on the petcock, drain your tank until it's less than 1/2 full. Turn the tank on its right side, remove the petcock. The filter is the nylon mesh arrangement on the inside. Most of them also include the raised tube that determines the height of the reserve portion of the tank, so take note which side of the filter has the higher tube. If you put it in backwards, you will have NO reserve in your fuel tank. :eek:

What you are looking for is the top of part #1 that is sticking up through the gasket, #2

SU0098_040.gif

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Steve said:
Again, these should have been orderd when you ordered the carb o-rings. The set of four would have only cost a penny at time of order, not sure if you can get them separately from cycleorings.com.




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Click to expand...

Sure, we can take care of it.

I searched all my recent orders and found nothing from Decatur, so I have no idea who you are. Anyhow, on your bike it's ambiguous -- your bowl drain screws could use flat fiber washers, or they could use O-rings. Flatout shows both (actually either...), but the washers aren't listed.

On bikes that have changed hands umpteen times, there's no telling what kind of 'substitutes' have been used over the years. :eek:

I'd say try the O-rings first (just email me) and if they don't do the job, you need the washers.
 
Would it be a good idea to rebuild the petcock since I am going to take it apart? I don't think it is having any problems but the carb o-rings were bad almost crumbly. It may be a good time to do it? Maybe at least get the o-ring but not the diaphram?
 
You can try, but most of the people on this board that have bought a rebuild kit to do the petcock say they wish they had spent the money on a new petcock, instead. I have taken a few petcocks apart and cleaned them out, but have never (yet) had to replace any parts in them. Your luck might be different, maybe you can even start a new trend if it works for you. :D

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uhuh thats me trend setter :-s
:eek: that is actually a scary thought
I am poor, stupid, tired, fat, old and diabetic :D
hows that for a trend? :lol:
 
I have tried to readjust the boots to the air filter, doesn't matter tried to tighten everything down. It still takes off. I tried taken the air cleaner off but no difference. Should I take it all apart and start over? Would it be possible that I did something to carbs when I did o-ring kit? It doesn't seem to run bad just fast. Could the problem be the float level? The throttle can not close anymore. There is slack in the cable for the throttle. I am pretty sure that the main screw is backed out all the way. what about the fuel air mixture screws? Should I tighten them down, they are 2 1/2 turns open. It has new boots, boot o-rings, bolts, and clamps. It is hard to start and I only have to move the choke a very little bit. I seem to remember one of the spring that I put back in one of the chokes was shorter and really stout. I looked all over I could not find a different spring. Was this normal or did the spring go to something else? The only springs that I remember where the diaphrams and the chokes and one on the linkage.:confused:
 
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