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Hole in Crankcase

  • Thread starter Thread starter j_fitz7
  • Start date Start date
J

j_fitz7

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I accidentally put the longer of 2 lower engine mounting bolts (the ones on both sides with the triangular nut plates) on the left side of the bike. It turns out that the bolt was too long and should have been on the right side!

The crankcase now has a hole in it the size of the bolt! I just rebuilt the entire engine with new oversize pistons! I was very demoralized when i added the oil to fire it up and it came right back out the hole.

My question is what can I do? I would guess that i can have it welded shut if there is enough space to weld in the confined space of the nut plate slot? I am also concerned about the aluminum shrapnel that is inside now from the bolt punch out? Other options maybe involve getting a new bottom end from somewhere?

Please help me I need it!!
 
The immediate problem IS that bit of aluminum inside. Though it may not cause any problems it'd be best to see if you can remove the lower crankcase cover to remove it. Assuming the hole is in the upper part of the crankcase just below the cylinders, you might approach the problem like this........the block, as-is, is not much good.....you can either completely strip it for welding (not recommended assembled due to spatter going inside and oil interfering with the weld) OR.......wire brush the area and roughen it slightly; degrease with some brake cleaner (then dry) and apply some long cure J-B WELD (use a small piece of screen if necessary to bridge the hole). Let that cure for at least 24 hours. Nothing ventured - nothing gained.
 
I concur. Pull off the pan and clean 'er out real good. Then use some screen on each side and some JB Weld (on a CLEAN and DRY surface!). I really think that'd work.
 
Who has a split case around?

Who has a split case around?

Can anyone look at their crankcase from the inside and see what is around my new hole. It is directly behind where the triangular nut plate goes on the left hand side.

maybe you could even tell if i could get the scrap aluminum out by just pulling off the oil pan? I would be worried that when i flipped the engine over the scrap metal would head south toward the gears, maybe and i may not find it without splitting the cases? Is there anything i could have damaged? I can put a screwdriver in the new hole at least an inch.

I can't tell what is behind my new hole, but it is much lower than the crank as you will notice if you look where the lower mounting point is.

Thanks in advance.
 
welding

welding

also what kind of welding works for cases (aluminum?), besides JB weld.

I know nothing about welding
 
JB Weld is an epoxy, so using it is not really welding. What type of engine is it? You will need to pull it apart to clean the sump out. I think you might be able to just pull the oil pan to do this.
 
Can anyone look at their crankcase from the inside and see what is around my new hole. It is directly behind where the triangular nut plate goes on the left hand side.

maybe you could even tell if i could get the scrap aluminum out by just pulling off the oil pan? I would be worried that when i flipped the engine over the scrap metal would head south toward the gears, maybe and i may not find it without splitting the cases? Is there anything i could have damaged? I can put a screwdriver in the new hole at least an inch.

I can't tell what is behind my new hole, but it is much lower than the crank as you will notice if you look where the lower mounting point is.

Thanks in advance.
progress.gif
 
Make sure you read the ENTIRE thread on aluminum repair, as there is now a superior product to the Alumalloy I mentioned in that old thread, and I posted at the end the new website to check out (HTS-2000 at www.aluminumrepair.com )...

By the way, last year another GS'r made a similar sort of mistake and drilled a hole into his sump. We tried to do an aluminum repair, but the position of the hole made applying enough heat almost impossible and we were unable to fix it with the HTS-2000. We used JB Weld instead, and it worked perfectly. The bike (a GS1100E) is in its second full season of use without so much as a drop of oil coming out of the "extra" hole...

Good luck, and make absolutely sure you get the aluminum bits out of the sump before you proceed!

Regards,
 
duaneage said:
This was addressed on this site before, you can use aluminum welding rod that utilizes a regular torch.

See this thread

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=71995&highlight=aluminum+welding
Click to expand...

I'll offer that, as a person who welds a lot, and has done a considerable amount of TIG and MIG aluminum welding and aluminum soldering; I wouldn't recommend this process for a predictable repair OR for the chance of causing further damage to the engine, in this situation. If it was mine (after I'd kicked my arse for having done the deed first), I'd go with an epoxy suitable for high temps.....like the J-B Weld, as I described. Reasons for this are several.....oil in the vicinity of the weld causing poor weldability.......spatter INTO the crankcase......Possible odd warpage of the block causing other mechanical problems........Possible welding currents arcing THROUGH assembled components and bearings despite best local grounding attempts......The engine runs as-is and the holes are stable (not a breathing crack).

But that's me ;)
 
With the motor still in the bike,remove the sump plate remove as many of the case bolts as you can; as well as the engine side covers, then lift the motor out; do not turn it over.
Sit it on the floor and roll it backwards (an assistant will be required) remove the last few bolts, and remove the lower case.
Remove any debris, and wash that section out with acetone, and have the hole TIG welded, JB weld may work; I wouldn't trust it.

Dink
 
Thanks for the info, very helpful. I am going to pull the engine and try some JB weld. Stay posted.
 
not sure of the location, but a threaded plug may work if you can tap the hole
 
JB weld

JB weld

I finally got the bike running, lets see how long the jb weld can hold up!

Thanks for the help.
 
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