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How are your coils mounted?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
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G

Guest

Guest
The '81 750L I'm working on has the stock coils mounted backwards from the other GS bikes I have.

The left coil runs to 2 & 3, and the right one to 1 & 4.

On my other bikes, they're mounted the other way.

Is is common or am I drinking too much beer??

Mike
 
Not a big deal as long as they are firing the right cylinders. Someone just mounted them wrong after a valve adjustment.
 
Yeah, they are wired correctly (mistake proof power plugs) - don't look like they have been remounted. Actually, a PITA to get to the mounting bolts & they don't need to be removed for a valve adjustment.

I may have performed the only one last week as far as I know!!

Anyway, I'm still looking for the guy who designed the space the carbs go into... I want to whack him with an airbox. What a job that is to get them in & out !!

Mike
 
hikermikem said:
Yeah, they are wired correctly (mistake proof power plugs) - don't look like they have been remounted. Actually, a PITA to get to the mounting bolts & they don't need to be removed for a valve adjustment.

I may have performed the only one last week as far as I know!!

Anyway, I'm still looking for the guy who designed the space the carbs go into... I want to whack him with an airbox. What a job that is to get them in & out !!

Mike
Click to expand...
The first time I had to get the carbs off my bike I tossed the airbox. I know people think it's a PITA to go with pods but they have never given me an ounce of grief.
 
Billy Ricks said:
The first time I had to get the carbs off my bike I tossed the airbox. I know people think it's a PITA to go with pods but they have never given me an ounce of grief.
Click to expand...

I considered pods, but I'm not so sure there's enough room for them either. Plus, I'm afeared I'd mess up the carb jetting as well. I'm running a drop-in K&N in the stock airbox - bought one on fleabay for $6.95 !!

Of course, I haven't had this bike running yet... still sorting her out - the PO claims it was running last summer, but I find that had to believe based on the condition of the carbs, fuel tank rust & VERY tight valves...

I'm getting there...
 
Yeah, they all ran when last parked. Sounds like you're getting down to the nitty-gritty.
 
Billy Ricks said:
Yeah, they all ran when last parked. Sounds like you're getting down to the nitty-gritty.
Click to expand...

Yes, getting close - I have another posting here asking about head removal tips too.

Seems someone (OK, it was me :o) was a bit over zealous when removing the exhaust bolts. Two of them actually had the nerve to snap off !! Now I actually know better than to keep cranking on stuck bolts, being a nut-buster from way back, but these two kinda caught me by surprise...

I was successfull in geting one out, the other snapped flush. Then I completed the hack job by buggering up the broken bolt with a broken extractor - hence the head removal post (off to a machine shop to save me from "fixing" it some more).

Interesting though, both bolts broke in the same cylinder (#2), and the broken bolt I did get out had a very "flat" thread on it. I chased all the holes with a tap & that hole actually cut quite a bit of metal. I think the same guy that designed the carb spacing forgot to finish the tapping job on the #2 cylinder...
 
I saw your post on the bolt problem. If it weren't for the extractor being broken off you could have drilled and tapped right through the broken bolt. I did that on my 700. Maybe you could take a nail puch or something and chip the extractor out.
 
Billy Ricks said:
I saw your post on the bolt problem. If it weren't for the extractor being broken off you could have drilled and tapped right through the broken bolt. I did that on my 700. Maybe you could take a nail puch or something and chip the extractor out.
Click to expand...

I tried & tried, and tried somemore... no go. I was really starting to mess up the surrounding aluminum, so I finally gave up. Boy, I hate to admit defeat.
 
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