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How Do I Compress Valve Springs On Gs550

  • Thread starter Thread starter Suzuki_Don
  • Start date Start date
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Suzuki_Don

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How can I compress the valve springs on the GS550 8 valve head. After the bucket and shim is removed there is a very small clearance between the outer valve spring and the machined hole that the bucket fits into. I need to compress the valve springs to remove the valve keepers but do not want the compressor tool to score or damage the inside of the machined cylindrical surface. Are ther any GS550 buffs out there that have done this and any hints. I have checked out the CHEFS valve job he did but with the screw adjustable tappets his valvesprings and keepers sit well above the head surface. So it does not give me much help.
 
How about a short piece of pvc pipe of a diameter that will fit inside of the bore. Put a cap on the end that the compressor will push on. Then cut a slot cut into the pipe so that you can get to the valve keeper. The plastic will not score the head.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
How can I compress the valve springs on the GS550 8 valve head. After the bucket and shim is removed there is a very small clearance between the outer valve spring and the machined hole that the bucket fits into. I need to compress the valve springs to remove the valve keepers but do not want the compressor tool to score or damage the inside of the machined cylindrical surface. Are ther any GS550 buffs out there that have done this and any hints. I have checked out the CHEFS valve job he did but with the screw adjustable tappets his valvesprings and keepers sit well above the head surface. So it does not give me much help.
Click to expand...

mikesxs has a valve spring compressor tool for 30 bucks. I'm as cheap as they come but this is a necessity when removing the valves from these bikes. I just used it to lap the valves on my 450. works absolutely great and this price was cheaper than anything on ebay.

http://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-tools.php?category_id=7.1

Good luck man.
 
RJ has got it. :) They make special tubular adaptors for the valve spring compressor, with windows on the side so you can reach in and get at the keepers.

While you are working on the head don't forget to replace the o-rings under those rubber carb runner boots - they are very leak prone and the number one source of vacuum leaks on old GS bikes.
 
I bolted an old spark plug socket to one end of a large C-clamp, then used a Dremel to cut a window in the socket. I smoothed all the rough edges and covered the socket with duct tape to protect the lifter bores.

It's worked like a charm for years... :-D
 
I tend to use the tap & catch method for removing collets & use a modded car valve spring compressor for putting them back in :-D saves a load of time & reduces the chance of damage to the pocket where the bucket sits
 
Last edited:
chef1366 said:
What do you use to tap it?
Click to expand...

A piece of turned nylon bar a guy at work made me about 10 years ago, its about on its last legs now but must have done 15 or more valve jobs in the intervening years :-D
 
Thanks Guys for all the tips. It gives me some great places to start. As you all know, it's a matter of trying one idea and if that doesn't work you go to another idea, until you come up with something that works for you. The obvious one I didn't think of was putting some duct tape or similar around the metal object that the valve compressor is pressing down into the bucket cavity. Hope my picture showed how difficult it can be. Give me CHEF's head to work on anytime.
 
While you are working on the head don't forget to replace the o-rings under those rubber carb runner boots - they are very leak prone and the number one source of vacuum leaks on old GS bikes.[/quote]

Is it a pretty sure bet that if I drill out the phillips (cross) head screws, that after the rubber boot is removed I will be able the unscrew the remaining part of the screw with vice grips without any trouble or could the screw be stuck in the head. And have to be drilled out. What are people's experiences with this. I could use an impact driver as the screw heads are in good shape, but I have no way of doing it without the head moving around on the work bench.
 
Impact driver is the common tool for these bolts. Some have also used a dremel with the cut off wheel to make it a flat head bolt. I was lucky enough to use the Suzuki tool kit and break 7 of the 8 loose and the last one was a little tap work with the chiesle to get her to spin free. Most likely, I'd think you'd be able to cut off the heads and get them to spin out with vice grips locked on but I'd try other options first.
 
B Evil said:
Impact driver is the common tool for these bolts. Some have also used a dremel with the cut off wheel to make it a flat head bolt. I was lucky enough to use the Suzuki tool kit and break 7 of the 8 loose and the last one was a little tap work with the chiesle to get her to spin free. Most likely, I'd think you'd be able to cut off the heads and get them to spin out with vice grips locked on but I'd try other options first.
Click to expand...

OK. Thanks B Evil. I tried the 40 year old impact driver. Once I got the knack of using it again. I got them all out. In fact they game out without damaging the heads at all. Good enough to use again.
 
Suzuki_Don said:
... Good enough to use again.
Click to expand...
i find those (and other screws) to be quite soft and i wouldn't re-use them even if they LOOK perfect. i replaced them with stainless allen head screws - for a worry free removal for the next 30 yrs :-D
 
psyguy said:
i find those (and other screws) to be quite soft and i wouldn't re-use them even if they LOOK perfect. i replaced them with stainless allen head screws - for a worry free removal for the next 30 yrs :-D
Click to expand...

Thanks BRO. OK that's what I'll do.
 
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