How do I quite down an'80 GS550e?

[Anonymous]

Newbe here. Have been learning on this site for a few weeks now. I'm in the MSF class and took the bike out today for the first ride. Ouch! the bike is really loud.
Not so much with the neighobors, although I will need to get out of the driveway pretty quick in the am - but even with a full face helmet the noise from the bike was hurting my ears., in all gears and even at pretty low RMPs (3k and less). After an hour of "practice" I really needed to get off of the bike. The guy I bought the bike from said the exhaust is not stock.
Any ideas on what can be done. Is there a way to put an aftermarket exhaust on this thing and not have to mess around with the carbs(as I have been reading some people had to do this)? I'm into this bike about $1k with new tires and plan on using it as my commuter machine (30 miles each way) for the next few months. Cost is an issue but anything has to be better than what I have now. I'm tempted to put in earplugs but that would be illegal in PA. Can anyone help me out here? Thanks!

 

[luc8421]

if it's an aftermarket exhaust, I'm assuming it's a 4n1 system, or is it only a two cylinder? I don't know. Can you tell us which kind? there should be a metal name plate on the can in the back, saying "yoshimura" or "Kerker" which ever you have.
There are a couple of things you can do cheaply to quiet it down.

1. Probably the best, would be to repack the can, by taking it off and wrapping it with steel wool, there's a write up with pictures in the Tips and Tricks forum, search for it at check it out

2. simple, but make sure you have the correct amount of oil in the engine, it'll accent any valve noise or other such noise if it's low.

3. do a valve job, if you have any tight clearences, you'll be getting a little valve noise from that. it won't be much, but whatever helps, ya know?

4. replace your exhaust seals, they're about $4 each, and it might help if your current ones are really shot.


Others might pipe in and help some more, and shoot me down perhaps, but I hope I gave you a place to start at least.

 

[Anonymous]

4 carbs

4 carbs

This one is 4 to 2. I will check to see what name is on it.
Looks like taking off the cans would be problematic. Seems like the exhaust pipes are all welded together. No area to disassemble.
Checking the oil is simple. I'll start there.
Gaskets - are you referring to the ones where the exhause connects to the head? I might be too chicken to mess with those nuts. If I mess it up then a trip to the shop will be necessary.
someone is selling a complete factory exhaust from a 550 on ebay. I might put a bid in for these "stock" pipes. Have to be quiter than what I have. But then I 'll have to get someone to put them on.
The valve job is something I could check on but I could not do that myself and it would be really expensive at a shop, no?

 

[luc8421]

no offense man, but step up. taking off an exhaust is simplier then it sounds, and once you do it, you'll realise what I mean. buy a can of thread penatration, and spray all the exhaust bolts liberaly, and let it soak over night. come back, and take it off. those are the gaskets I'm talking about. most aftermarket ehaust cans can come off, although I'm pretty sure some can't. The valve job is important and not too difficult. Do you have a manual? if not, get one, they're worth ten times their weight in gold. If you have the tappet adjusting valves, a valve job isn't too hard, took me an afternoon. and remember, the guys on this forum will help you with every problem you have, so don't hesitate to ask.

 

[Anonymous]

Mechanical but only relative

Mechanical but only relative

I'm really surprised by the amount of work gsresources folk put into their bike. I am somewhat mechanically inclined but a valve job? I wouldn't have a clue. I have one of those after market shop manuals. Way too much detail. Who has a torque wrench anyway? A shop! Not the average joe like me.
Anyway, based on your encouragement I might give the exhaust a shot if I can get the stock ones from a bike being parted out. I'f feel even more emboldened if more than one GS expert chimed in on this. Thanks for responding.

 

[Anonymous]

got an exhaust will give it a try

got an exhaust will give it a try

Update. I purchased a factory exhaust. Got in touch with someone selling it from an old link on this site. Need to get the gaskets from the local dealer and will give it a shot over the July 4th weekend. I will post an update and, hopefully, before and after pictures.

 

[argonsagas]

Re: Mechanical but only relative

Re: Mechanical but only relative

. Who has a torque wrench anyway? A shop! Not the average joe like me.
.

Cheap advice: Stop being an average Joe....buy or borrow a torque wrench...AND USE IT! Dial-type wrenches can be a bit costly, but an older style flex-type wrench is inexpensive, and very well worth the minor investment.

Some may argue the flex wrenches are inaccurate, but this is not so. Perhaps they are less sensitive than the dial types, but, having been used in countless millions of applications for decades, and with great effectiveness, they have proven their worth.




These engines do not require you to have massive arms to tighten the nuts/bolts, as high torque is not needed, or wanted, but they DO require accurate torque work for even distribution of downward pressure on heads and some other areas.

The torque wrench not only can, but will, mean the difference between broken bolts, warped heads and other avoidable damage.

ALWAYS put a light coating of oil on the threads before applying torque.
This ensures a non-binding surface, and thus delivers much superior accuracy to what you can obtain if done dry.

(In some applications, you will need a thread locker...this takes the place of oil)

 

[jimcor]

Eric, a 3/8 inch drive clicker style, foot pounds scaled, torque wrench from Harbour Freight is only 9.95, when on sale. Go to Sears and get a beam style Craftsman ft/lbs-N/M 3/8 ths drive with adaptor socket for about 20 bucks.

 

[Anonymous]

Ok, Ok. I'll get a torque wrench from sears. I had planned on doing it the cheap way - breaking the bolts, then reversing direction and tightening the bolt back to the original location to get the "feel" of how tight they were when I took them off. But that would assume they were put on with the right torque in the first place. Can I get a torque wrench that will work with a 1/4" drive? Guess I'll be finding out.

 

[wayne cooper]

Okay heres another voice for ya-Yes buy a torque wrench it is a lot cheaper than a trip to the shop and WAY cheaper than new parts. Replacing the exhaust is a good starter projct,as you get to it read the manual as you go and all of a suden the whole thing starts to make sense.I always tell people that reading a service manual is like reading a dictionary, although it may be interesting the plot is kind of hard to follow :wink: .Good luck, and use the group thats why we're here.

 

[wayne cooper]

Okay heres another voice for ya-Yes buy a torque wrench it is a lot cheaper than a trip to the shop and WAY cheaper than new parts. Replacing the exhaust is a good starter projct,as you get to it read the manual as you go and all of a suden the whole thing starts to make sense.I always tell people that reading a service manual is like reading a dictionary, although it may be interesting the plot is kind of hard to follow :wink: .Good luck, and use the group thats why we're here.

 

[Anonymous]

got the deep creep and the gaskets. The gaskets were only around $6 for four. I remember seeing postings with them going for $4-$5 so I got a deal? Hope their the right ones.

 

[IanFrancisco]

Got to put $0.02 in here. Everyone's yelling encouragement at Mr. ericp to get tools and start doing his own work. That's all well and good, but I have to say from experience that what seems easy can turn into a nightmare. All it takes is one stripped thread or broken stud to ruin your day and your riding time. Especially if you are looking to have a reliable commuter, it wouldn't hurt to have an experienced Trustworthy motorcycle mechanic do a service to the bike, including not a complete valve job but a check to verify that clearances are within spec and also carb synch and ignition and charging system checks. Doing bucket and shim type valve tappets sounds like a hassle and requires the special tool. I've done plenty of old-school locknut and screw type valves but still am not looking forward to the day when my GS450 needs it. As far as exhaust, that's one area where the studs can break EASILY because of the heat and also that they are often over-torqued. I think torque specs on the exhaust studs are only 10-15 ft/lbs, maybe less. They're only 8 ft/lbs on my XL175.
Eric, if you want to replace the exhausts follow the recommendation to SOAK those bolts in penetrating oil, maybe for two nights instead of one. Who knows how long they have been frozen in place and what gorilla may have tightened them up?

 

[Anonymous]

I went out to soak them tonight with the deep creek stuff. I will soak them every night for the next week or until the deep creek can runs out, which ever comes first. I too am a little concerned that I might screw this up. I am a new rider but now doing about 300 miles/week. Stopping now would be a major setback in overall quality of life. Eight bolts. I think I can, I think I can I think i can.......
The GSs look so classy with the stock exhaust. I just have to replace the existing, hideous, welded, flat aftermarket crap with the real deal. I'm used to the noise now (what this thread was all about in the first place). I don't even see the exhaust when I ride. But I've decided this bike is a keeper. No longer a "starter" bike. It is the best deal on the planet and i intend to crank out major miles on this thing over the next few years. Please stay with me and this thread. I will post before and after pictures if I can figure out how to add photos. thanks again. -ericp

 

[jimcor]

Don't forget to rap those bolts to set up the vibration. Use a brass drift (rod), No drift? Use a screwdriver, a dowel rod, a length of broomstick or my favorite a plastic /nylon rod. You are trying to break a bond between disimilar metals which have fused because of electrolysis, electromagnatisism or electrosomethingorother.. Steel and aluminum...Spray 'em and wack 'em over and over again. My high school general science teacher is ashamed of me at this moment. :roll:

Don't worry Ian we're working with Eric! It is a combination of chemistry and mechanics we are working with here. Not just an overtorque situation.

Keeping 550s on the road is only a matter of getting them running, changing the oil and using them as often as possible so they don't have a chance to wear out! :wink:

 

[Anonymous]

do I need to hit the bolts with something other than your run of the mill hammer? Soaked them again tonight and will start the "rap" process tomorrow. That will give 5 nights of soaking and four nights of rapping.
By the way, Drove to CT this weekend and realized a few things:
1. Everyone in Ct rides a Harley.
2. Ok, a few don't. But those who don't ride Honda Goldwings.
3. Noone on a Harley rides with a Helmet. No kidding, maybe 5-10% had helmets on. And most of the bikes I saw were on the highway doing 70+.
Strange. Not the same in NJ and eastern PA. Wonder what's going on in CT (or not going on).

 

[jimcor]

Yeah, don't beat on those bolts directly. If you do you could deform them and add another problem to your situation. Use a wood block, a plastic rod, a brass rod.

Usually, once you start the soaking process and rapping process you don't ride the machine. Spray 'em and give 'em a wack for a couple of days before you intend to take the thing apart.

PM wrench and mcyclenut, I forget which of the two explained the process a while back. They can helpyou too.

 

[Anonymous]

I rode the bike about 1/2 hour after spraying the bolts. Smoked like heck. Man, that stuff stinks when it burns off. Probably shouldn't ride it but I can't get myself to drive the cage when the bike is available. A couple days off from riding and I start getting "bumbed".

Need to get the bolts. the ones on the bike are definitely not stock and will be too long. Some of the ones on the bike are so long that they are tightening the flange to the head with a couple of nuts locked together. The flanges are about 1/2 to 1" away from the heads now. Looks like the stock exhaust will be right up against the head or off slightly.
My clymer manual says nothing about the gaskets. I'm hoping the old ones just pop out and the new ones slide right in without a seeding issue.

 

[Anonymous]

I rode the bike about 1/2 hour after spraying the bolts. Smoked like heck. Man, that stuff stinks when it burns off. Probably shouldn't ride it but I can't get myself to drive the cage when the bike is available. A couple days off from riding and I start getting "bumbed".

Need to get the bolts. the ones on the bike are definitely not stock and will be too long. Some of the ones on the bike are so long that they are tightening the flange to the head with a couple of nuts locked together. The flanges are about 1/2 to 1" away from the heads now. Looks like the stock exhaust will be right up against the head or off slightly.
My clymer manual says nothing about the gaskets. I'm hoping the old ones just pop out and the new ones slide right in without a seeding issue.

 

[Anonymous]

Replacing the exhaust

Replacing the exhaust

Ok. That was way too easy!

I had the bike off the road because it caught the "stator plague" on Thursday night. So I started the exhaust project. Old bolts came off like butter. I had the new exhaust on and tightened down in an hour.
A few minor issues:
I couldn't find a torque wrench for under 100 clams so I tightened them down by feel. I will tighten them down to spec next time I am at work and can borrow a torque wrench from the maintenance shop.
I couldn't get the old gaskets out so I left them in. Didn't want to take a chance damaging the head trying to get them out. Hope this is ok.
when the pipes are bolted down to spec is the flange right up against the head or slightly off it (maybe a millimeter or two)? When I torque them down they should seed correctly regardless I think. I just have to remember to loosen up the back where the muffler clamps to the frame.
These pipes look so much better than the aftermarket ones that were on there. I just hope I don't have to have the carbs rejetted for this exhaust.
Thanks for all of the advise!