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how does the clutch work? plus some other questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
  • Start date Start date
A

Anonymous

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Bike was purchase recently, 82 gs1100 e, When I pull the clutch lever, it pulls the cable which moves the relasese arm, what does the release arm move to disengage the clutch? Does the release arm act on the pressure plate or is something between the release arm and the pressure plate? I ask the question becuase my clutch partly disengages. The manual does not show enough for me to know? How much should the release travel to fully disengage the clutch? I have tried to adjust the cable to spec and that does not improve anything? I check the bars and they are straight?
Also I a V&H 4/1 exhaust with a K&N air filter, the carbs seem to be original as the idle adjust screws still have caps over them. I have not pull the plugs to know if the bike is running rich or lean but would that set up be possible without changing the jets? The bike does not pop on decel, nor does the idle hang when throttle is released all the exhaust pipes are hot except for cylinder # 3, Bike was in storage. What rpm should the idle speed be set after bike is warm, and what should the rpm be when the choke is on when bike is cold? Lots of question, I am a car guy switching to motorcycles, Thanks for the help,
 
The clutch consists of a basket (picture a real basket) that has a hub inside of it. There are a series of flat metal plates that attach firmly to the outside of the basket, and a set of friction disks that attach firmly to the hub. The basket is connected to the crank and spins at the same rpms as the engine. The hub is connected to the transmission. On the end of the hub is a pressure plate that is attached to the hub via strong springs. This pressure plate is what moves when you pull the clutch cable. Upon application of the clutch lever, the pressure plates fight the springs and allows the whole mess of plates and disks spin freely from each other, so the hub is no longer connected to the basket.

There is a push rod that pulls on the pressure plate via some small pinion gears. That push rod has bearings at the end of it. It's possible that these bearings are bad, pull the clutch cover and check them.

It's also possible that the disks or fibers are worn down. This would mean that the clutch cable was previously adjusted to pull the pressure plate as far as possible- beyond working tolerance- and now the pinion gears can't pull the pressure plate far enough to release the clutch. You'd feel this when you ride the bike, the clutch would be able to spin freely when you applied the thrrottle. Also, the bike would be hard to put into gear.

If the carbs are actually stock, I'd be suprised if the bike isn't running lean, with that pipe and air filter. Lean is worse than rich, because the engine sees higher temps, but both lean and rich are bad condititons. Pull the plugs and see if they how they look.
 
QA

QA

bikes been sitting, more than likely some of the clutch plates are stuck together, may have to replace if they don,t come loose with a little riding, you need to rejet for the pipe and filters, but more than likely its has been done but do a plug check in all speed ranges or pop off one of the out side carb bowls and check, mains and pilots
 
Some things about clutch:
- Yah, that release lever perrty much directly releases the clutch.
- You said "pressure plate". Actaully there are multiple clutch plates (with friction material on both sides) and multiple metal plates. You say you have a manaul, prpbably can see some description of it in there. Can also look into engine oil fill port and see part of this, can see the tabs on the plates in the slots in the clutch basket.
- You say you just got the bike and you are in a northern state, might it just be that oil is cold and causing clutch to drag some. Mocycle clutches will do that when oil is cold, which is quite different than automotive clutches.

I suspect others will have further advise. Welcome to GSR.

Ah, I see others have already reponded while I was writing this.
 
great description

great description

Thanks for the explanation, now I get it about the clutch. So the pinion pulls the release rack which pulls the pressure plate away from the friction plates thereby disengaing the clutch. But just because the pressure plates releases does not mean the plates seperate, which is what is call sticking plates or a dragging clutch. Cool, now anything on the idle speed with the choke applied at startup and idle speed without choke once egine has warmed up? I read someplace 1100 and someplace else 1500 at idle once warm and 3000 with choke fully applied at start up cold?
? Thanks once again.
 
Yes, just because the push rod is pulling the plates apart doesn't mean the disks and plates are releasing. When I changed the guts out on my 81 a couple of years ago, the tabs that interlock with the basket were slightly distorted and it was a bear to get them out with a hook pick. I assume this happens over time and would make the clutch hard to disengage. Even two of those plates still gripping could make it tough to shift.
 
adjusting the clutch

adjusting the clutch

You probably just need to adjust the clutch actuator/rod setting (not sure what it's called exactly).

On the side of the clutch cable cover when looking at the bike there should be three screws that hold a small cover on. Remove the screws and pop off the cover. You should now see a small regular slotted screw and a 10mm nut. Loosen the nut, but don't remove it, and slowly turn the screw out towards you some, but again, don't remove it. Now go up top and adjust your clutch lever cable to where the adjustment screw is bottomed out. Do the same for the adjustment bolt going into the top of the clutch actuation cover.

Now slowly tighten the rod adjustment screw in until you feel it make contact with the clutch rod. Back it off a half turn and spin the nut down. Holding the screw in place, tighten the nut with a wrech.

Now go back to your clutch lever and adjust the free-play in the lever until you have 1-2mm of play, by moving out the cable adjuster on the clutch cover end and the lever end.

Hope this helps.

~Adam
 
Thanks for the info

Thanks for the info

Adjusted clutch per advice and still no luck, I will now take clutch apart and see what the internals look like. What should I be looking for as far as damage? Do the bearings go bad and what would bad bearings look like? What about the basket and hub, anything to look for that would say replace them? Thanks again.
 
Re: adjusting the clutch

Re: adjusting the clutch

AOD said:
You probably just need to adjust the clutch actuator/rod setting (not sure what it's called exactly).

On the side of the clutch cable cover when looking at the bike there should be three screws that hold a small cover on. Remove the screws and pop off the cover. You should now see a small regular slotted screw and a 10mm nut. Loosen the nut, but don't remove it, and slowly turn the screw out towards you some, but again, don't remove it. Now go up top and adjust your clutch lever cable to where the adjustment screw is bottomed out. Do the same for the adjustment bolt going into the top of the clutch actuation cover.

Now slowly tighten the rod adjustment screw in until you feel it make contact with the clutch rod. Back it off a half turn and spin the nut down. Holding the screw in place, tighten the nut with a wrech.

Now go back to your clutch lever and adjust the free-play in the lever until you have 1-2mm of play, by moving out the cable adjuster on the clutch cover end and the lever end.

Hope this helps.

~Adam
Click to expand...

ummm, Adam, the 1100 clutch is actuated totaly differant from a 550, sorry.
 
broken friction plate

broken friction plate

took clutch apart and found one broken friction plate. No metal shavings i other foreign objects found in clutch housing. Also I dont belive the pinion release was put in properly. Whay angle should the release arm be at when I reinstall the clucth housing cover? Anyone with a photo of theirs?
 
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