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how freely should a rear wheel turn on a shaftie?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
was working on something else on my bike and noticed the following:

when on central stand the real wheel is quite difficult to turn by hand
is this normal? [-o<

(the rear brake is not binding, the wheel bearings are new, bike is in neutral gear, new oil in secondary gears and final drive)

thanks
 
psyguy said:
was working on something else on my bike and noticed the following:

when on central stand the real wheel is quite difficult to turn by hand
is this normal? [-o<

(the rear brake is not binding, the wheel bearings are new, bike is in neutral gear, new oil in secondary gears and final drive)

thanks
Click to expand...


I'm just guessing, but I think (by feel) that mine takes about 3 lbs pressure to turn the wheel by lifting on the spoke.
 
I can turn the rear wheel on my GS1100G with just my thumb and one finger without much effort, but the tire stops as soon I let go.
 
lurch12_2000 said:
I can turn the rear wheel on my GS1100G with just my thumb and one finger without much effort, but the tire stops as soon I let go.
Click to expand...


If I give my rear wheel a really big shove it will continue to spin about 1/10 of a revolution before it stops
 
Sounds similar to mine... it is noticeably more difficult to push my 1000G than the 1000E

Dan :)
 
maybe i'm not strong enough - lol

maybe i'm not strong enough - lol

i may not be as strong as you guys... but i wasnt able to give the wheel any "spin" at all, and i wouldnt describe its movement as "turning freely", and certainly not a "finger and thumb push" only

is there any more scientific way to test this (so we take all this subjectivity and guess work out of it)?
 
Yup -- sounds like your rear brake is dragging.

Are you sure it's in neutral...? :-D
 
When in nuetral on the center stand you should be able to move the wheel with little effort. Check your caliper, axle torque, and make sure it IS in neutral :)
 
One thing to triple check is that the order of assembly of all the brake spacers is correct. If this is wrong, the caliper will drag very badly.
 
I have a shaft bike, and it should spin freely. It is a Honda Shadow bike
but same principal. Lubricate the worm drive gear, and release the rear brake cam assuming this bike has rear drum brakes. It should spin freely.

Also center spindle shaft may be binding - use 10-wt machine oil after
lightly sanding shaft down or using steel wool or wire wheel grinder to remove rust, oxidation or baked-on grease that will increase resistance against the the wheel spinning freely.
 
thanks

thanks

ok, for a start i'll take the caliper off and report back

btw, the bike IS in neutral, but thank you for reminding me how easy it is to do something silly, for me anyway :oops:
 
Steve said:
I could get 1/8 of a turn on mine.


Maybe I'm just more repulsive? :shock:

.
Click to expand...

I can't accept that you might be more repulsive than me, so I put my most repulsive face on and tried again.. I reckon I got somewhere between 1/6th and 1/4 of a free spin turn when at my most repulsive. Therefore proving that I am the more repulsive.

Perhaps Psyguy should stop smiling at his wheel scientifically, put on his subjectively ugly face and push harder :lol:
 
Last edited:
if i give it a nice firm pull, i can get it to spin halfway around. i can move mine easily with my pinky.
 
You could use a fish scale to pull up on a spoke to see how much effort it takes to turn the wheel.
 
I have a fish scale but to lazy to go check it :p

will tell you this though, just replaced my tires and brake pads.Before I started the wheel took a LOT of effort to move and didnt go anywhere when i let go.

Now with the new tire and new brakes it moves pretty easy and then stops a bit after you pull it. Think it was part the brakes and also cleaning out the connection on the shaft and greasing it up again.
 
it seems the brake was dragging after all..

it seems the brake was dragging after all..

ok, so i removed the brake pads and the wheel turns more freely
when i give the wheel a spin i can get it to rotate 1/2 turn or so before it stops

caliper rebuild, right?

.
 
If the caliper isn't leaking then you may be ok with cleaning all the crud out (remove the rubbers at the top of the piston etc) push the pistons forward using the brake lever (careful not to pop them out all the way) & give the piston you can see a good clean, apply some light oil then make sure they are seated all the way back with a C clamp before you re-fit.

If you pull the rubbers & see a bunch of rust then re-build them. This treatment only really helps with "sticky" calipers not rusty ones...

Dan :)
 
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