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How long before I can sand rattle-can base coat?

  • Thread starter Thread starter t3rmin
  • Start date Start date
T

t3rmin

Guest
See my previous thread hi-jack for background:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=570873&postcount=19

Well the Bondo is on, it's been primered, sanded, and basecoated again. Got a pretty smooth contour even. But again there is some orange peel, and a few tiny pieces of lint landed in the paint. How long should I wait (with them curing indoors under a heat lamp -- at a safe distance this time!) before it'll be wet-sandable do you think? The imperfections are not really all that bad and I'm sure I could get a near perfect finish with a bit of sanding.

But as I discovered last time, 24h is not enough -- the paint didn't sand, it smeared. This is Rustoleum gloss enamel and I put on about five coats. The can *says* it should be dry in 24h.
 
Several days you would think...

Several days you would think...

Different paints take different times, my Krylon job was sandable the next day. You could shoot a test piece like your mailbox or the side of your wife's refrigerator, wait a few days and sand it first to see if it's ready. Or just start slow on the underside of one side cover?

Or just put the bike together and ride it a month while the paint cures, then get back to work on it. Don't spill any gas!

I think your posts are a good warning about using Rustoleum.

Time is on your side, be patient.

By the way, which clear coat are you planning on using?
 
tkent02 said:
Different paints take different times, my Krylon job was sandable the next day. You could shoot a test piece like your mailbox or the side of your wife's refrigerator, wait a few days and sand it first to see if it's ready. Or just start slow on the underside of one side cover?
Click to expand...

Wife's refrigerator. Got it. What was your home address again? :-P

Or just put the bike together and ride it a month while the paint cures, then get back to work on it. Don't spill any gas!
Click to expand...
That's a thought. I've got a bunch of other bike projects on the back burner, though, so I've got plenty of things to occupy me while it sits naked and ashamed in the garage.

I think your posts are a good warning about using Rustoleum.
Click to expand...
Well I dunno about that. I'm using it 'cause it seemed to be the most highly-recommended, so other people have obviously had success with it. The problems I've had are mostly due to my rank incompetence as a painter. ;-)

Time is on your side, be patient.

By the way, which clear coat are you planning on using?
Click to expand...

I've purchased a few cans of Rustoleum Crystal Clear Protective Enamel. The color coat is really quite shiny by itself already. We'll see how it looks after sanding, although I plan to finish off with 2000 grit, which will allegedly leave a gloss or near-gloss finish. From what I hear the clearcoat really gives it a "sparkle"?
 
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Test panels are going to be the only way that you'll be able to find out about cure times when using rattle can. Professional uro's have specifically set "windows." You are going to have to test to find your window/cure time.
Just remember if you are doing mulitple tests that there be consistency. ie: number of coats, temp., humidity.
I'd bet that the best solution would be to do several light/thin coats. Allowing a an hour or so between coats. That's a hard thing to do if your impatient as I. Spraying thick will act just like aunt Hildie's nacho dip. It'll skim over on top but still be cheesy underneath!
 
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jonesti said:
Test panels are going to be the only way that you'll be able to find out about cure times when using rattle can. Professional uro's have specifically set "windows." You are going to have to test to find your window/cure time.
Just remember if you are doing mulitple tests that there be consistency. ie: number of coats, temp., humidity.
I'd bet that the best solution would be to do several light/thin coats. Allowing a an hour or so between coats. That's a hard thing to do if your impatient as I. Spraying thick will act just like aunt Hildie's nacho dip. It'll skim over on top but still be cheesy underneath!
Click to expand...

Yeah, no kidding -- that's while I'd never make it as a professional painter. I'm way too impatient. I always operate under the assumption that "if some is good, more is better!". I was really proud of myself for not spraying it so thick that I got drips/runs, but I suspect the orange peel is the product of over-thick coats.
 
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