• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

How many idiots does it take to install an airbox?

  • Thread starter Thread starter JerbGas
  • Start date Start date
J

JerbGas

Guest
Went to put everything back together on the bike as far as the carb and airbox go....

got the carbs seated just fine with a touch of wd-40

BUT could not for the life of me and the help of my 3 friends get the gd dang airbox onto the carbs! Why is this so difficult? It seems to be partially because when you are pressing, its a plastic box so there is no real force you can give it past the threshold of the plastic.

Am I doing something wrong? should the airbox be seated onto the carbs before the carbs get seated on the intake manifold? Any tricks? Already covered the connections in wd-40 and that only seems to help marginally.
 
There should be some dots imprinted on the airbox as well as on the boots. Make sure that they are pointing at each other. I wanted to set it on fire myself because I was having a hard time as well.
Also, if the boots are old and stiff you'll have a hard time. If so, do like I did and get new ones, the sooner the better because it takes a while to get them.
Good luck
 
One trick I use on the 550 is to get a long dowel or screw driver and push the airbox onto the carbs from inside the airbox. You need to remove the filter for this of course. It helps if the airbox rubbers are a bit soft and new-ish.
 
The airbox boots get hard and shrink with age which increases the difficulty factor. Purchasing new boots, and clamps, will greatly improve your chance at success and reduce frustration.

Regarding the assembly process, best method I've found is to first install the airbox boots around the carbs (before installing the carbs into the boots on the engine) and then clamp them tight. Do not use any lubricant on the boots or they will tend to slip off thereafter. After you've got everything snugged down move both the carbs and airbox together and stick them into the carb holders in front.
 
Another problem is that the center boots seem to push the plastic back and after years of heating, the plastic boxes tend to get dished in instead of being flat across. I heat the boxes up and take a hammer handle and push the walls flat again and hold till they cool and hold the set. This makes them slide furhter over the carb throats and you get a better seal from the clamps also.
 
When you get new boots, you'll wonder if you've gotten the right parts. It's amazing how much the old ones shrink.

But yeah, as mentioned above -- you need to come up with a way to push from the inside with a stick.

I've also used a heat gun VERY VERY VERY CAREFULLY to heat up the plastic so I can EXTREMELY CAREFULLY reshape the air box to get rid of that "dish" in the middle on the carb side.
 
The answer is 5.

One to hold the airbox steady and 4 others to lift up the bike under it and pull back to mate the two sides.

Then the one holds the screwdriver steady while the other 4 rotate the bike to tighten the clamps.

(Consider new boots if the lube doesn't Work)
 
Back
Top