How Much Paint Do I need?

[Guest]

I'm going to rattle can my 81 1100 with 1 -2 coats of primer, 2 - 3 coats of base (dark blue), and 2 - 3 coats of 2k clear. How much paint do you think I need? I'll be using 12 oz cans from Automotive Touch Up, and they say you can expect 3 -5 sq feet of coverage per can. The 81 1100 has a lot of body parts - headlight bucket, tail piece, 2 side covers, 2 small pieces between the side covers and the tail, front fender, and gas tank. I want to make sure I don't under buy, or over buy.

 

[cowboyup3371]

I would check with them and ask if they will take any unused paint back. Some places will agree to do that (at least the one here in Dayton did for me).

 

[nvr2old]

Always better to have a bit more then you think you need for re-doing mistakes or for future touch ups. Sucks to get into it and run out.

 

[alke46]

Let us know when your results are in. Also post pics of the job. Good luck.

 

[JTGS850GL]

Not sure how much it relates to rattle can jobs but it took me a pint of each paint and clear coat to do my entire GS1000. I had to purchase a quart as a minimum size and still have enough to do the entire bike again. That's two coats of primer, two coats of base coat and 2 coats of clear. I think my spray system is more efficient then rattle can though.

 

[tkent02]

Get more than you need, sometimes the last dregs from a can will splatter and drip. Better to switch to a new can before you get to that point. You can take it back if you don't use it, but keep one can for touch ups (nothing attracts damage like a new paint job) The primer will always be good for something, as will the clear. The base color you can use on your matching lawn mower or mailbox or just do some sweet graffiti on your local PD precinct or something.

 

[JTGS850GL]

One other small note. On each can there will be a batch number. Make sure you get them from the same batch. In most cases it doesn't matter, but I have seen cans with slightly different shades with the same brand/color name but different batches.

 

[Guest]

I have done a lot of paint, here is my take. Not all primers and paints are compatible. I have seen that problem, and it can be huge with spray can type paints, way more than automotive type paint. For years lacquer (not hardly available anymore) was used for the base primer. Then either lacquer top coats or enamel top coats can be used. If you use an enamel primer there can be certain recoat, or top coat spray on time limits. What can happen is if you wait too long for the top coat, it will attack the primer base. Make sure you use compatible base coats and top coats, and watch out for recoat times.

4 rattle cans of color coat should be enough. Actually 3 should do 4 should keep you out of trouble. Go buy some $1 cans of spray paint from Walmart and practice on your lawn furniture, or other things like an old fender or hood. Paint like a robot, steady speed, slight overlap on each coat. Dont spray here and there, it makes for random thickness. If you get a $16 paint gun from HF Tools you can buy the paint in quarts, and get better quality paint. 4 quarts will paint a car, so a quart is a lot. The trick would be finding some old school automotive acrylic enamel, the stuff will shine so good you will need sunglasses if it is sprayed on just right. If you go rattle can you can get some catalyzed clear coat in a spray can for the topcoat. There is a button on the bottom of the can you push, the catalyst is injected into the can, shake it and go. It will harden in the can if you don't use it soon enough. Catalyzed clear coat will hold up to gas spills on the tank. To find the stuff search the net for "catalyzed clear coat spray can" lots of different brands will pop up. By the way that HF Spray gun works great, I have used them a lot. One last thing, dont paint it on a super hot day, especially in the sun. Or it will look like sand paper. You have to put enough paint on it where it flows out and forms a gloss. The trick is to spray it on thick enough, in several thin coats, where it glosses out. You have to get enough paint on it where it glosses over, but not enough paint where it will run. Other than the surface prep, that is the main "art" to painting. And use 320 to 400 grit sand paper for the last sanding before paint.

 

[tkent02]

+1 on the practice spraying, get the use of a good pattern down. Mailboxes, the garage fridge, bicycles, the wife's dishwasher, anything. +1 on the cheap spray gun. I use a HF touch up gun for bikes, no need for anything bigger. I have even used Duplicolor Paint Shop paint in quart cans, about $20, no mixing required, no catalysts or anything. A quart is way more than enough. Very easy to shoot, easy to work with. Shoot a good clear coat over it, it looks great and should hold up as well as any 2 part urethane clear. Your 2K clear should be fine.

This is the Duplicolor Paint Shop:

 

[rustybronco]

-1 on the H.F. gun.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?161543-Harbor-freight-47016-spray-gun

 

[chuck hahn]

If hes talking about rattle cans I am thinking his supplier does it like the guys here in OKC. They mix it right there and then they out it in a machine that pressurizes and seals it in the rattle cans.

Same quality paint that anyone would normally run thru a gun but now its canned. If done right it works awesome and is every bit as durable and workable as if it was done via a spray gun.

 

[tkent02]

-1 on the H.F. gun.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?161543-Harbor-freight-47016-spray-gun

I have done about 6 bikes with it, and some other stuff. It works well, a lot better than the old Craftsman one that costs $80 or so.

 

[rustybronco]

Tom, you've used that particular model? It wasn't all that good laying out metallic's.

 

[tkent02]

Yes .

 

[Spyder]

I have a $25 gravity feed gun (HF or Northern tool can't remember), and a $300 DeVilbiss gravity feed gun. No matter what gun you buy, you will have to fiddle and adjust it with each type of paint you put through it. My DeVilbiss adjusts a little easier than the cheap one, but both of them will lay out a beautiful coat.

However, When I painted my current bike, I went the Dupicolor automotive rattle can, and the 2K clear. Cheaper and VERY easy. I think I'm at 3 years now and it still looks like I did it yesterday. I still haven't (and won't) wet sand and buff it. Has a near mirror finish, better that a new car from the factory.

Do yourself a big favor. Get a roll of visqueen (sp?) and make up a "paint booth" in the corner of your garage. If your floor is dusty wet it down in that area before spraying. Don't have any doors open, and not fans on. I took a 2x4 and made up a stand for my tank to sit up off the table about a foot, so I could get at all angle easier.

Other than that, definitely practice on other surfaces to get the feel of how everything is gonna lay out... You KNOW your mailbox needs a cool paint job, lol...

GOOD LUCK! and post pictures of the WHOLE process!

 

[rustybronco]

Yes .

The pattern on mine hooked.

 

[tkent02]

GOOD LUCK! and post pictures of the WHOLE process!

Yeah we are going to need pictures. Lots of pictures. I need to get inspired to paint the 1000 that's been sitting there taking up garage space for years.

 

[JTGS850GL]

Here's a detailing of how I painted my last bike: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?218173-New-to-me-GS1000G/page3

Go to post #115 and it shows the paint booth I made along with a "Lazy Suzan" that I used to rotate the part while painting. That way I didn't have to drag a hose all over and I could create a kind of "down draft" paint booth with the ventilator fan under the Lazy Suzan turntable.

 

[Guest]

-1 on the H.F. gun.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?161543-Harbor-freight-47016-spray-gun

By the way it is on sale right now for $9.99. Granted it is Chinese, and cheap but especially for the money I recommend it. I have been spraying with guns since the 80's and have used a lot of guns. I cant fault this cheap gun. I do have a devilbiss gravity feed gun I paid over $300 for. It was from a time when paint guns were still made in the US. It hard to tell the way it shoots from the little HF gun I have other than volume. Granted the poor Chinese quality control can factor in, a burr somewhere could change things a lot. That said proper pressure, adjustment, and paint viscosity/thickness can be problems too. I guess that is where painting the fridge and mail box, cardboard, and anything else comes in. I am thinkin the HF gun is pretty far ahead of a rattle can, not saying you couldn't get a screwed up gun.

 

[tkent02]

Granted the poor Chinese quality control can factor in, a burr somewhere could change things a lot. ..... I am thinkin the HF gun is pretty far ahead of a rattle can, not saying you couldn't get a screwed up gun.

This is probably it, and I have only used two of these guns. Don't know how many of them are bad, don't know if their QC is as good as it was when I bought mine. I only know the two I used were fine for my purposes. I haven't shot any metallic paint, but my friend did, and it turned out good.

Part of it is technique, spray patterns, even coating, don't hold the gun over the work in case it drips, etc.

I have also used rattle cans with good results, like they say it's all in the prep. The 2K clear should be fine as far as gasoline resistance. I have found it easier to use the HF gun than a rattle can, but either will do.