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How NOT to clean a Uni filter - need a laugh?

  • Thread starter Thread starter wtdash
  • Start date Start date
W

wtdash

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So I nominate myself for DA of the day award. :o

The air box had a Unifilter sticker on it and so I figured I may have a filter I could clean.....

I pulled the air filter out of my '85 GS 550 E to check it, and sure enought it was a foam vs. paper filter (had the bike for just about a month).

So, I thought I'd use my K&N filter cleaner solution to clean it up.

I sprayed the filter, and let it set. 10-15 mins later ran water (I did not spray w/pressure) from the inside out and the foam disintegrated in my hands!

Apparently the Sodium Metasilicate Pentahydrate in the cleaner was a 'bit' strong for the foam.???:eek:

Here's the result:
3752523554_733a0e5657_m.jpg


So, now I'm stuck ordering a new one, as the local dealer is out of stock, and wants $35 for the OEM part!

Live and learn (slowly).

Thanks,
Td
 
So I nominate myself for DA of the day award. :o

The air box had a Unifilter sticker on it and so I figured I may have a filter I could clean.....

I pulled the air filter out of my '85 GS 550 E to check it, and sure enought it was a foam vs. paper filter (had the bike for just about a month).

So, I thought I'd use my K&N filter cleaner solution to clean it up.

I sprayed the filter, and let it set. 10-15 mins later ran water (I did not spray w/pressure) from the inside out and the foam disintegrated in my hands!

Apparently the Sodium Metasilicate Pentahydrate in the cleaner was a 'bit' strong for the foam.???:eek:

Here's the result:
3752523554_733a0e5657_m.jpg


So, now I'm stuck ordering a new one, as the local dealer is out of stock, and wants $35 for the OEM part!

Live and learn (slowly).

Thanks,
Td
get the oem part unless you have a pipe an non oem jetting
i have used two filters in 60 000 kms
you can readily use a compressor to blow most of the crap outta the oem part
 
Sorry about your luck, but that is another reason that I don't apply stickers and I don't trust stickers applied by previous owners. :o

.
 
You sure it was the spray cleaner that caused the filter to crumble? Foam filters deteoriate with time, I've seen lots of them go to pieces as soon as you touch them.
 
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You sure it was the spray cleaner that caused the filter to crumble? Foam filters deteoriate with time, I've seen lots of them go to pieces as soon as you touched them.


hmm so he can just order a new uni filter replacement foam I would imagine

was the bike workign great with a foam filter?
if so it must have had jetting work done
 
You sure it was the spray cleaner that caused the filter to crumble? Foam filters deteoriate with time, I've seen lots of them go to pieces as soon as you touched them.


That thought did cross my mine, but I have NO history on the bike's maintenance...other than it's super clean...so don't know the age of the filter.
 
hmm so he can just order a new uni filter replacement foam I would imagine

was the bike workign great with a foam filter?
if so it must have had jetting work done


I don't know about 'rejet'. It had the D8EA plugs installed, which I replaced w/the D9EAs...it's also a Cali model.

Not to hijack my own thread, but the only drivability issue is it's very cold-blooded and overly sensitive to choke adjustments, so thought I'd replace the filter, intake O-rings, and carb boots (aka 'tube, outlet' - according to Bikebandit's site).
 
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I know you are tempted to get the EMGO filter because it's cheaper, but don't. It'll kill your top-end.
 
I don't know about 'rejet'. It had the D8EA plugs installed, which I replaced w/the D9EAs...it's also a Cali model.

Not to hijack my own thread, but the only drivability issue is it's very cold-blooded and overly sensitive to choke adjustments, so thought I'd replace the filter, intake O-rings, and carb boots (aka 'tube, outlet' - according to Bikebandit's site).

Shim the carb needles as well, it helps greatly on these overly lean carbs.
 
but if your bike is like mine it doesnt matter because it runs like crap anyway


(dont get emgo)
 
Dishsoap:lol: that is all you ever use to clean a Uni, then reoil it with foam filter oil.
They last a long time as long as you don't clean them with something that will dissolve them:lol:
 
The K&N filter cleaner did not do that. The filter was already old. The K&N cleaner is actually quite gentle.
 
Shim the carb needles as well, it helps greatly on these overly lean carbs.
Shim?...new one me....'course I don't get out much. :)

Google brought up THIS and THIS for How To's...just need a super small washer? Or should I buy a 'shim kit'?

The fact that it's a CA model means it's probably running xtra lean, too, I'd bet.
 
Shim?...new one me....'course I don't get out much. :)

Google brought up THIS and THIS for How To's...just need a super small washer? Or should I buy a 'shim kit'?

The fact that it's a CA model means it's probably running xtra lean, too, I'd bet.

You should search this site using the advanced search function - "titles only" works best. Basically, you need to remove the plastic spacer on TOP of the clip and replace it with a small stack of washers that is shorter. This will effectively raise the needles since there is a spring pushing upward on the needle and the height is controlled by the washer stack on top of the clip, not underneath.
 
hey have you bought that filter yet? I ordered the wrong filter by accident and have an EMGO filter for a GS550. let me know if you need it!

edit just read the above "don't go for the EMGO.." so much for that, lol.
 
Yeah, I was going to order the EMGO, but got another Uni instead...didn't want to make 2 mistakes in as many days!
 
Shim the carb needles as well, it helps greatly on these overly lean carbs.

To expound a bit on Ed' advice, I believe you have the "twin" CV carbs on that beast. They do not look like the ones you'll see here in the tutorial pages of carb cleaning. Instead of 4 separate carbs (one per cylinder), there's one carb body for 2 cylinders, each body having two intake ports (hence the "twin" moniker).

I have the same ones on my '85 GS550L & I just shimmed the needles last week. There's no circlip to remove in the slide (like the other CV carbs have), just grab that plastic "tree" thing with a a pair of needle-nose pliers & pull. Best to have a rag wrapped around it so the insides don't fly all around. Like Ed says, replace the plastic spacer with some washers to "lift" the jet needle. It really makes a difference in mid-range acceleration. Measure the spacer thickness, and reduce by approx. .040 with the washers.

Radio Shack sells an "assortment" pack of flat washers containing different sizes, including the ones you need (#4). That's the easiest way to get them.

Good luck,

Mike
 
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