• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

How to adjust e-clip position?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 80GS1000
  • Start date Start date
8

80GS1000

Guest
I was swapping out main jets over the weekend trying to dial in the jetting on the 1000. I finally settled on the Dynojet 170 as it pulled the hardest on the top end as judged by the butt dyno compared to the next two smaller Mikuni size jets. The next two sizes smaller felt lean and the bike felt slow by comparison.

So with that figured out, on to the needle jet. I'm using the adjustable needles provided in the Dynojet stage 3 jet kit. Is there a way to adjust the e-clip position without dismantling the carbs? The midrange feels fat (rich) as it sort of bogs and makes a low exhaust tone before it rockets off when the mains kick in. So do you go up or down a notch to lean it out?
 
Last edited:
Well, the carbs have to come apart some, but not very far.

You don't usually have to remove them from the bike, either. Just remove the four screws that hold on each top, then carefully lift the diaphragm and slide. It takes a long pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the circlip in the bottom of the slide, then you can remove the needle. To lean the mix, raise the clip on the needle.

.
 
you go a notch up on the clip as that lowers the needle = leaner mixture

the needles you can pull out of the carbs by taking the carb top covers off with the carbs on the bike
 
I've been working on getting my 78 GS1000 dialed in. I put an airbox back on the bike. After doing some plug chops with he new airbox installed I still needed to make some adjustments to the jet needles. I thought about it a while and figured that I could do it without removing the carbs. It went pretty quick. In fact, I timed it. From the time I got the tank off until the time I buttoned up the carbs was 30 minutes.

Basically,
remove the carb tops
remove the big rod that moves the slide
Pull each slide out
Make your adjustments

For reassembly I ran in to a little hitch. The jet needle flops around a little and it was hadr to get it in to the needle jet with all of the parts assembled. I opted to take it apart and reassemble once all the parts were in the carb bodies. It's not too tough if you use the right magnetic screwdriver.

You can do a bench synch by observing the throttle cable cam. Adjust each diaphragm until it just starts to move the throttle cable cam and then back off a touch. This makes it easier too. Because the cam sticks out so far, it translates subtle movements of the diaphragm in to obvious movements in the throttle cam.

After this button it up and your good to go.
 
drhach said:
I've been working on getting my 78 GS1000 dialed in. I put an airbox back on the bike. After doing some plug chops with he new airbox installed I still needed to make some adjustments to the jet needles. I thought about it a while and figured that I could do it without removing the carbs. It went pretty quick. In fact, I timed it. From the time I got the tank off until the time I buttoned up the carbs was 30 minutes.

Basically,
remove the carb tops
remove the big rod that moves the slide
Pull each slide out
Make your adjustments

For reassembly I ran in to a little hitch. The jet needle flops around a little and it was hadr to get it in to the needle jet with all of the parts assembled. I opted to take it apart and reassemble once all the parts were in the carb bodies. It's not too tough if you use the right magnetic screwdriver.

You can do a bench synch by observing the throttle cable cam. Adjust each diaphragm until it just starts to move the throttle cable cam and then back off a touch. This makes it easier too. Because the cam sticks out so far, it translates subtle movements of the diaphragm in to obvious movements in the throttle cam.

After this button it up and your good to go.
Click to expand...

Your carbs are VM's. 80GS1000's are diaphram carbs....different beast.
 
You can still remove the slides without removing the carbs. Just the tanks.
 
long screwdriver

long screwdriver

Yeah, you can change the needles without taking the carbs off, but one tool essential for this job is a really long screwdriver. Based on recommendations here I got an Ames JIS Phillips head. The 11" blade length makes getting to the top screws on these CV a breeze... I only wish I had orderd two of them. It's the BEST $6.00 I ever spent.

http://amessupply.com/products1.cfm?aid=1&cid=D&sid=DE&fid=1404070
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top