how to check valve clearance?

[ruler7171]

I have a service manual and it says to check valve clearance, but it doesn't say how to actually do that. I have the engine the right timing mark to check and I have my feelers gauge set, but I am not sure how to actually check. Should my feeler gauge slide completely between the lobe and the shim freely? My specs are .03-.08 none of those sizes will slide completely between the cam lobe and the valve shim.

 

[tkent02]

I have a service manual and it says to check valve clearance, but it doesn't say how to actually do that. I have the engine the right timing mark to check and I have my feelers gauge set, but I am not sure how to actually check. Should my feeler gauge slide completely between the lobe and the shim freely? My specs are .03-.08 none of those sizes will slide completely between the cam lobe and the valve shim.

.03mm - .08mm, millimeters not inches, a lot of us use .10mm as the upper limit. Gauge should slide in, maybe feel some drag but shouldn't have to force it.

If your manual doesn't show how to do it then it's not the Suzuki manual, the others show it being done wrong.

Look here for the correct procedure:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

 

[ruler7171]

it is the manual that is printed off of Basecliffs site that you sent me.to me it seems like none of the feeler gauges are small enough to slide between the lobe and the shim. I am using mm.

I just wanted to be sure that I am supposed to slide the feeler gauge between the cam lobe and the valve shim. I have all the way down to .02 and it feels like it sticks immediately

 

[tom203]

.02mm is like tissue paper-make sure you are reading the gauge markings correctly. ( .02mm is less than .0008 inch)

 

[tkent02]

It sounds like the valves were neglected too long, got too tight. Good thing you checked them when you did.

 

[Steve]

I have a service manual and it says to check valve clearance, but it doesn't say how to actually do that.

If your manual doesn't show how to do it then it's not the Suzuki manual, the others show it being done wrong.

it is the manual that is printed off of Basecliffs site that you sent me.

If you are using the Haynes manual, it is on pages 201-203 of the pdf (pages 200, 201 of the manual itself).

If you are using the Clymer manual, it is on pages 31-35 of the pdf (pages 28-32 of the manual itself).

I cannot vouch for the accuracy of these procedures, they are different for the twins, and I don't have any of them around here.

.

 

[GSX1000E]

to me it seems like none of the feeler gauges are small enough to slide between the lobe and the shim. I am using mm.

I just wanted to be sure that I am supposed to slide the feeler gauge between the cam lobe and the valve shim. I have all the way down to .02 and it feels like it sticks immediately

NO. You measure between the cam lobe centers/base circle and the shim.

 

[Maddevill]

Makes sure the valve you are checking has the cam lobe AWAY from the lifter. Do each one like that.

 

[tkent02]

Makes sure the valve you are checking has the cam lobe AWAY from the lifter. Do each one like that.

That gives incoerrct readings. Use the procedure in the Suzuki manual.

 

[Steve]

That gives incoerrct readings. Use the procedure in the Suzuki manual.

Actually, Tom, since it's a twin, having the lobe away from the lifter will work.

.

 

[ruler7171]

I think I am about to embarrass myself a little more with this question, but here goes......what would the lobe going away from the lifter look like? The lobe has a tear drop shape. Which "side" are you guys putting to the lifter?

 

[tkent02]

Actually, Tom, since it's a twin, having the lobe away from the lifter will work.

.

OK, my bad. Never worked on a twin GS.

 

[Steve]

I think I am about to embarrass myself a little more with this question, but here goes......what would the lobe going away from the lifter look like? The lobe has a tear drop shape. Which "side" are you guys putting to the lifter?

That's OK, ask questions, that is how you learn (other than doing something wrong and breaking it ).

The lobe on the cam has two parts: the base circle and the lobe. The lobe is the pointy part that pushes down on the valve to open it. On your bike (and other twins) just get the point part to point somewhere away from the valve, which will be about a 30 degree (or so) angle off vertical.

If you ever have the chance to work on a four-cylinder GS, there is a more-detailed procedure. Using the "pointy part away from the valve" method will give you erroneous readings.

.

 

[ruler7171]

That's OK, ask questions, that is how you learn (other than doing something wrong and breaking it ).

The lobe on the cam has two parts: the base circle and the lobe. The lobe is the pointy part that pushes down on the valve to open it. On your bike (and other twins) just get the point part to point somewhere away from the valve, which will be about a 30 degree (or so) angle off vertical.

If you ever have the chance to work on a four-cylinder GS, there is a more-detailed procedure. Using the "pointy part away from the valve" method will give you erroneous readings.

.

Great answer Steve. Easy to understand and follow. I could BARELY get .03mm between them.

 

[Steve]

I could BARELY get .03mm between them.

If you enter that 0.03 reading in your spreadsheet, it will tell you that it is "OK", but when you enter your shim size, it will suggest a change to the next size smaller. :-k

This only happens when entering 0.03 as your clearance, and is due to the way I had to round some of the computations. The good news is that with a clearance of 0.03mm, you should be changing the shim anyway. :-\\\

Just to verify, though, ... you have actual METRIC feelers, not INCH feelers with metric approximations printed on them?

.

 

[ruler7171]

If you enter that 0.03 reading in your spreadsheet, it will tell you that it is "OK", but when you enter your shim size, it will suggest a change to the next size smaller. :-k

This only happens when entering 0.03 as your clearance, and is due to the way I had to round some of the computations. The good news is that with a clearance of 0.03mm, you should be changing the shim anyway. :-\\\

Just to verify, though, ... you have actual METRIC feelers, not INCH feelers with metric approximations printed on them?

.

If I am right at .03 (and I really had to work the feeler in) with a 2.7 shim, the calculation tool suggests a 2.6mm replacement. Would you suggest I go a little smaller such as a 2.55mm or 2.50mm?

 

[ruler7171]

Also, can I remove all of the shims with the engine in the same position (I mean with out turning the engine/cams)?

 

[cowboyup3371]

If this is your first time checking it, I'd go one size at a time, seat it, and then recheck. You go too much at first and you'll be asking for trouble.

 

[Steve]

If I am right at .03 (and I really had to work the feeler in) with a 2.7 shim, the calculation tool suggests a 2.6mm replacement. Would you suggest I go a little smaller such as a 2.55mm or 2.50mm?

If you have a 2.70 in there with a 0.03mm clearance, the sheet is going to suggest a 2.65, not a 2.60. If you put in the 2.65 that is suggested, your clearance will go to 0.08mm, which is right at the upper limit. DO NOT go with a 2.55 or 2.50.

Also, can I remove all of the shims with the engine in the same position (I mean with out turning the engine/cams)?

The ONLY way to safely remove all the shims without rotating the engine is to remove the cams.

Just in case you have not seen it anywhere else (it is in the spreadsheet instructions #10):
DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE UNLESS THERE IS A SHIM IN EVERY POSITION.

It is allowable to move the engine if you put a "placeholder" in place of a shim. That "placeholder" can be a coin (quarter, silver dollar, etc.), but be SURE to get it out of there before hitting the starter button.

.

 

[ruler7171]

If you have a 2.70 in there with a 0.03mm clearance, the sheet is going to suggest a 2.65, not a 2.60. If you put in the 2.65 that is suggested, your clearance will go to 0.08mm, which is right at the upper limit. DO NOT go with a 2.55 or 2.50.


The ONLY way to safely remove all the shims without rotating the engine is to remove the cams.

Just in case you have not seen it anywhere else (it is in the spreadsheet instructions #10):
DO NOT ROTATE THE ENGINE ULESS THERE IS A SHIM IN EVERY POSITION.

It is allowable to move the engine if you put a "placeholder" in place of a shim. That "placeholder" can be a coin (quarter, silver dollar, etc.), but be SURE to get it out of there before hitting the starter button.

.

Your right, 2.65mm is the suggested. I took out one shim and stopped. So I would be safe to put a quarter in its place and then rotate the engine to allow access to another shim and so on? Would the textured surface of the coins not cause any harm to the cams?