G
Guest
Guest
While going over the Roadkill bike for our ride to Colebrook tomorrow
I noticed this on the newly painted tank;
I noticed this on the newly painted tank;
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
0
08rangerdan
Guest
Who painted it? Hopefully not you lol
G
Guest
Guest
Looks like I'm riding the 1000g again
G
Guest
Guest
Thats gas leaking through
Ooh, that's a different story. It looked like maybe it had been painted with fuel-soluble paint (rattlecan, ie) that met fuel. Wow, that's a shame. So there's a hole in the tank. That's just awful.
F
farmall
Guest
Did you seal the inside of the tank prior to paint?
B
bigskybldr
Guest
That's hard to look at, I know how much work goes into a paint job.
G
Guest
Guest
Don't feel alone, when I had my '79 GS1000E tank repainted, I didn't have it sealed. Why should I? It didn't leak.
That area under the gas cap, the recessed area was somewhat rusty, and it and the tank were all stripped, sanded and professionally painted.
Oh so beautiful it came out. But then these little "bubbles" started appearing on the paint in that recessed area. Seems there was enough rust that it developed pin holes, although not visible, allowed air to escape under pressure resulting in those bubbles.
I had the guy completely re work it, but we both under the impression it was a leaky gas cap seal that caused it. The result, it developed those bubbles again.
Now, I wished I had sealed it in the first place, but oh well. I didn't have it fixed again and the paint has since lifted and cracked. But you don't see the damage until you take the gas cap off, so I live with it.
I've often wondered what I should do about it, and then never did anything, but if it really gets to bother me, I'll just grab my other tank out of the closet that was also repainted, and was sealed and put it on it.
Those are not decals either, those were painted on there, no ridges. Should've had that tank sealed.
That area under the gas cap, the recessed area was somewhat rusty, and it and the tank were all stripped, sanded and professionally painted.
Oh so beautiful it came out. But then these little "bubbles" started appearing on the paint in that recessed area. Seems there was enough rust that it developed pin holes, although not visible, allowed air to escape under pressure resulting in those bubbles.
I had the guy completely re work it, but we both under the impression it was a leaky gas cap seal that caused it. The result, it developed those bubbles again.
Now, I wished I had sealed it in the first place,
but oh well. I didn't have it fixed again and the paint has since lifted and cracked. But you don't see the damage until you take the gas cap off, so I live with it.
I've often wondered what I should do about it, and then never did anything, but if it really gets to bother me, I'll just grab my other tank out of the closet that was also repainted, and was sealed and put it on it.
Those are not decals either, those were painted on there, no ridges. Should've had that tank sealed.
That really sucks, but as Sedelan says don't despair, same thing happened to mine except mine was caused by a bad spot weld at the front where the locating lugs slide onto the rubbers. I silver soldered all around the lug all the time blowing compressed air through the tank to minimise spoiling the paintwork. I put a little pressure and used soapy water as a test to check it was sealed. I sent the tank back to the fella who originally did the paint work and he did a small repair job. You would never know it had had a repair.
Personally I don't like the idea of coating the inside of the tank, the place where yours is leaking would be an easy braze repair and just wash it along as far as you think would be necessary, a repair paint job and call it job done.
Don't panic, it really isn't as bad as it first seems.
Personally I don't like the idea of coating the inside of the tank, the place where yours is leaking would be an easy braze repair and just wash it along as far as you think would be necessary, a repair paint job and call it job done.
Don't panic, it really isn't as bad as it first seems.
That sucks Harry. Well its gonna need redone, so its time to do a tank liner.
G
Guest
Guest
I didn't line the tank because it does not show any rust on the inside. It looked like new. The rust was on the exterior. Just surface rust we thought. I didn't paint the bike. I had my brother do it. He is not a professional just a dabbler, but does a pretty nice job. So all I am out is, disappointment, materials, and time. I have not used a tank liner before. I picked up a POR15 liner kit, can anyone recommend, or condemn this product for me?
G
Guest
Guest
I think Por 15 is the one most of us go for.
I used Kreme once on my Skunk back in the day, it didn't work, and I threw that '78 GS1000E tank out with the trash, but that was in '83 (I think) and you could get a brand new painted tank for $200, and I did just that.
I used Kreme once on my Skunk back in the day, it didn't work,
and I threw that '78 GS1000E tank out with the trash, but that was in '83 (I think) and you could get a brand new painted tank for $200, and I did just that.
I use and suggest the Caswell kit.
The only product I have ever used is Kreem. on my 1968 Royal Enfield 750 TT Interceptor. I put it in in 1987, without too strict adherence to the instructions. When I sold the bike in about 2002, it was still holding up fine, with no problems what so ever. Many people have had a different experience. I suspect that you might find that with many of these products.
Never should have sold it.
Never should have sold it.
C
chedd
Guest
over here in the u.k.our petrol(gas to you fella's) contains ethanol,it used to be 5% but this year it's due to be increased to 10%.the problem with ethanol(not sure if that's the right spelling)is it eat's everything carb 'o' rings, fuel lines,and tank liners,mags over here are full of horror stories and pics of what this **** does to tanks that have been treated with liner kits
850...The 77 has had Kreem in it since 2007 ( before I knew anything about Caswell or POR 15) and its still fine with not a speck of flaking.
Its my opinion only, that the MAIN problem peole have with Kreem comes from not draining the excess real good( which leaves a thick mess that cant dry in the bottom of then tank) and not curing it long enough even if its drained well.
The instructions say "at least" 24 hrs, and I suspect many think that "over night is good enough". well IT ISNT good enough!! In fact, I would wiat 2 or 3 days and have then tank in direct sunlight EVEN with the Caswell kit in!!
Extra time for complete confidence is priceless in my thinking. Want to rush and take shortcuts, then pay the price!!!!
Its my opinion only, that the MAIN problem peole have with Kreem comes from not draining the excess real good( which leaves a thick mess that cant dry in the bottom of then tank) and not curing it long enough even if its drained well.
The instructions say "at least" 24 hrs, and I suspect many think that "over night is good enough". well IT ISNT good enough!! In fact, I would wiat 2 or 3 days and have then tank in direct sunlight EVEN with the Caswell kit in!!
Extra time for complete confidence is priceless in my thinking. Want to rush and take shortcuts, then pay the price!!!!
G
Guest
Guest
The POR15 kit I bought says 96 hours for a full cure
The Caswell says at least 24. But like I said I do a few days and in the sun to help heat and bake it on.
G
Guest
Guest
Well I pulled the tank tonight and drained what was left of the gas out. Then I started the stripping of the tanks components, fuel gauge, petcock, and fuel cap. dried the tank out of remaining fuel. Then I started with the POR15 metal cleaning solution,[I think all it is , is that Awesome cleaner you get at the dollar tree. It has the slimy feeling on your hands and smells the same, plus it says it is non toxic] so I cleaned the tank as directed on the bottle, then I flushed the tank out for a good ten minutes with hot water,[Stuck a garden hose hooked to the hot water tank right in the tank and let it run spraying all over the inside with a pressure nozzle . After it draind I pulled all the tape off and absorbed the remaining water up with rags through the fuel gauge hole. then I blew it out with compressed air, and then dried it with a heat gun on the inside for a couple minutes. That was it for tonight. Tomorrow evening I am going to do the metal prep[etching,rust remover] as described on the can of POR15 metal prep. I am going to do this as directed because I don't trust tank liners that well. My race bike had one in it when I bought it , and we looked at it the other day and it is failing also. All I can do is keep my fingers crossed that this works.
