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How to part the cylinder head from the cylinders - stuck gasket - 1980 gs550e

In the end as i could not spin shim round i put in a 2p piece !

From that (i calculated the 2p thickness at 1.8mm) i found a gap and from that i could tell what was required !
We are talking now - 1.9 - 1.95mm shim required. Way out of spec - but i am forced to do this.

they dont make em that size but i found a firm local that have a shim grinding machine.
they can do them while i wait. from any thickness to whatever i so please.

useful to know this and i will risk as the shim are hard all the way through.
 
Stop the press ! I started the bike for first time and went out on the road. Did 2 wonderful miles at 30mph
in 6th gear.
A lot to inform of and a question:

- Shim issus sorted (one needed to be below spec - had to do it) - got one ground down by a eng company with special machine - costs few pounds.
Now i have it working i might now, the bike is mechanically sound with no stripped threads etc - remove head and grind a valve down properly later in year.
- Exhaust collets too tight - cut them in half, ground them down a bit to smooth off and replaced.
Now the exhaust fit perfectly and seal the gasket for the first time in 5 years perfectly.
(Thanks to member who told me that one - it has transformed working on the bike)
- Timing set
- valve clearances set within limits
-Valve lapping done by me
- new valve seals
- carbs set to 2 1/4 turns on idle
- TO DO Carbs sync (not set yet but will do that soon - needs doing.
- Using the cheap gasket set (athena) - I will add to this later - but it generally is ok - with perfect surface preparation.
I will add to this as this is important.
I used the old oil filter gasket, valve conver gasket - no leaks. might need a tighten soon of course.
- To Do Compression test and ill post results to see what engine i have now

Before my sledge madness , the bike smoked at start up when cold, used oil, had a poor exhaust gasket seal
and i could go on and on.

Now the engine sounds like a new bike back in the 1980's. tight , smooth, no smoke.

I am going to take it easy and do about 20 miles slow today
then oil and filter change again.

How far and how do I run in a new cylinder (same pistons and rings), new different head.


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I am pretty forensic when it comes to what I have done on the bike but I will have to take
it easy as I am concerned about debris in the oil. I am 99.9% sure now I am ok but
it is not in me to go hard this rebuild.

For this reason i will take it easy for 20 miles. oil change and filter and then again take it easy.

Madly i rarely go over 6000 revs !! even when it was going last ! to save the dear bikes delicate
engine. I expect this is madness.
I was ovetaken by a horse once ..

Right the sun is shining , the bike is ready - cruise time ! this is what it is all about - riding it
 
Really just read the article. You don't have to do it if you don't want to but in 200,000 miles I have never seen any damage to any 550 by whipping the **** out of it. The higher RPM just doesn't hurt them. Tiny pistons and a really short stroke, it just doesn't matter how fast.

Don't think I've ever ran mine at less than 6,000 RPM. Hell it doesn't even start to make power until after 6,000.
 
Like Tom said, don't worry about caning the backside off it; that engine us tougher than very old boots and loves revs.
 
I will increase and do as you say. I have never hammered it.
After another oil change and filter earlier I am convinced the motor is not
full of metal and behaving normally.
In fact the oil was spotless as was the sump.
Question:
I have a very odd issue that seems at first hand to be engine related. Read on and it simply cannot be:

There is a ticking noise that seems to be coming from the front of the tank.
If you put your ear on the tank - it is loud and clear as if something is tapping the tank.

Now I am sure people will say its valves, valve clearances, can chanin ........ BUT

This sound was exactly the same 2 weeks ago with my other engine !!!!

If I take the tank off and run no ticking.

What under the tank can make this happen ?
I am convinced someone else must have had this issue before when it simply cannot
be the engine.
If i grab hold of the tank or pull it up the ticking continues.
Can the coils make this ?

if i take a screwdriver and put that and my ear to the scredriver to the engine in various places
no odd sounds !! no ticking on the head ?

Help I am flummoxed ?
 
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Tomorrow i will pull off tank and investigate.

What you suggest feels like what i thought it was (but with my knowledge of electrics didnt
know it was possible)

I am plain dumb with electrics.
Would i just make sure connections are tight etc and try again.
I can imagine they are loose etc.
How can i eliminate this from the equation ?

J
 
Run it in the dark and look under there for sparks. When the spark plug wires get old this can happen. It's easy to fix depending on where on the wire it's bad.
 
I just ran it up in the dark and no visible sparks looking underneath,
I will however seriously sort the wiring under the tank tomorrow and tighten the coil
to ht leads etc. (I did put on 2 new ht leads a while a few months ago.

It is almost like it is coming from inside the tank.

Ill run test tomorrow and start with the wiring , coils, ht leads
and remove the tank and run my long fuel and vacumm pipes to bike and see what the result is.

Before my engine build i tried to sort thjis but could not.
Not movin the ticking is still present.
Ear on the tank and its runs with the revs .. almost sort of speeds up to a maximum and stays there.
Could it be fuel in some way ? vacuum ? im flummoxed.
 
OK, I have had the little cover over the fuel filler cap make a rattling noise if it's missing the little rubber bits. That's not your noise is it?
 
I am sure it is not. It sounds electrical like a spark plug shorting.
I will forensically check all tomorrow though. Got to balance the carbs so will
do yet another 1/2 day on the bike.

Other than this ticking it is transformed. the ticking however was present in the other
totally different tuned engine.

I dont think its external vibration. ie filler cap.
read somewhere someone saying the petcock could make this noise ?
 
Could be a leak in the exhaust where it fits to the head. I also heard a ticking once when I had an external tank fitted and forgot to plug the vacuum on the carb for the petcock.
 
Question:
I have just removed the tank checked the compression , just synced the carbs, set the timing again.
Running very smooth - best ever. It sounds like other bikes i envied at the traffic light - ticking over smoothly now.

ticking noise:

I took the tank off and listened around the engine, frame , things rattling -nothing.
Remeber we could discount the timing chain, valves, ...... as I had heard the noise on my other engine.

I then thoiught - shall i listen to the tank - remember the tank is off 1meter away from the bike
on a firm stand.
the ticking is coming from the tank !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HOW Help ?
One more thing - if i disconnected the vacuum pipe (i use a long 1m one when off the bike)
the ticking stops.

Help me - how on earth is this happening. The ticking is like lightly tapping on the tank with a screwdriver?
 
Does it make this noise if the tank filler is open, could it be a issue with the breather in the filler cap making this noise.
 
Sounds like the diaphragm inside the fuel tap that is pulsing when the bike is idling.

That's why it stops when you disconnect the vacuum hose.

If you increase the revs I bet it will go away as the diaphragm will constantly be open.
 
Sounds like the diaphragm inside the fuel tap that is pulsing when the bike is idling.

That's why it stops when you disconnect the vacuum hose.

If you increase the revs I bet it will go away as the diaphragm will constantly be open.
that was going to be my next suggestion, if the breather in the filler was ok :)
 
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