How to remove oxidation?

[Guest]

I have a 1982 GS650GL and the aluminum engine covers are oxidized. I want to have them shiny like they were out of the factory(close enough). Whats the best way to get rid of oxidation on aluminum engine covers? or could a dealer do it for me? Thanks for your answers!


L.Leblanc

 

[Nessism]

Strip off the factory clear coat and polish. There are about a hundred threads here on how. I use a DA sander with 220 grit sandpaper followed by a hit with a sisal wheel and black cutting compound.

 

[Guest]

Nessism has the plan. You can try it without a buffer but they're worth the money ten times over. Aircraft remove is a good stripper, then buff to the desired finish.

 

[Guest]

You might want to go to the parts store and get a tube of elbow grease, as you're going to need it. Be patient. It'll be worth it.

 

[Cipher]

Did this model have a miroor polish from factory? Looks to me its been buffed before and sprayed with some cheap clear.
a buffer wheel is cheap in time and materials
go price a tube of autosol or some other metal polish its outrageous and woefully ineffective for this type of application

 

[rphillips]

Just my opinion, it looks like that flakey plastic clear coat stuff that Suzuki put on there is already gone. If it is, I'd try a good rubbing on one of the covers with Semi-Chrome polish or Never Dull wadding polish, & see if it's going to work. That stuff will really do a job on alum. Should be available at most any bike shop or ebay. If not, go to the more aggressive things. Good luck

 

[Guest]

If the clear is gone it should blacken a rag with metal polish. Clear doesn't seem to do that. I like simichrome for hand polishing but I still think a buffer is worth it's weight in gold. Even the little harbor freight ones work a treat.

 

[LAB3]

It's been awhile since I've done any polishing but the guys who have suggested starting with a sander are right on the money. You can rub and rub all week to get the stuff off and you still won't get there, start aggressive and keep working with finer grit paper until any obvious scratches are gone then hit the polisher.

 

[Gorminrider]

I'd stick to the polish until it gets worse...put it off til winter/spring (depending on your workspace temperature) maybe. Once you take the OEM coat off, you will have the job of recoating it or polishing constantly to keep the corrosion away..which will quickly pit it if you don't keep up.

or Maybe just spot -fix with some Krylon clear (?) or clear engine laquer sprayed into a CLEAN tin can and applied to a CLEAN surface area with a brush and blended in to existing coat in the mean time...

 

[rphillips]

No doubt, if the clear coat stuff is still on there, it's got to come off, sandpaper or whatever, the polish won't do anything on top of clear coat. The picture looks like the clear is already gone, no sign of any chips or edges that show flaking of the clear coat, if so the polishing should work. Sure polishing with a buffer or polishing wheel will be much easier than rubbing with your fingers, duuuh.

 

[Guest]

sanded it with 400 then 800,1000,1500 and 2000. Then polished it on a wheel. A guy I know is gonna put a clear on it tomorrow. It isnt perfect but its gonna do the job well enough. I personally think its not bad for a first try!

 

[Nessism]

Get yourself a cheap power polisher and a sisal wheel and you can do a job like that in 1/10th the time of hand sanding. I say this from personal experience.

 

[Guest]

I resisted the urge to buy a buffer. Seriously, Ness is right. If you're into old bikes it will get used.