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How to remove release pinion from right engine cover on GS 650 e?

  • Thread starter Thread starter ian
  • Start date Start date
I

ian

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Hi there

how do i remove the release pinion from right engine cover on GS 650 e?
See photo attached.

In manual it shows at the top that the release pinion has an oil seal and bearing, so guess it has to be tapped up to get out?

I tried to gently tapping it, but not moving. I'm hesitant to hit it harder just incase not meant to remove it that way.

The reason I was thinking of removing it was to check the bearings, because it is impossible to turn by hand.

Should it be that hard?
I have to attach it to the clutch release arm to get it to turn and that is probably why the clutch is hard to pull in when changing gear?

Cheers, Ian

2015-07-31 16.13.11.jpg
 
It should be easy if it's not operating the clutch, no resistance at all. Try soaking it in your favorite solvent, 50% Acetone-ATF mix, of throw the whole cover in an ultrasonic cleaner?

It's a shame to ruin the bearing and seal if it's just a little grundged up inside.
 
thanks for fast reply.
Would kerosene or WD40 be okay to soak it in?

not sure what 50% Acetone-ATF mix is?
 
Acetone mixed with Automatic Transmission Fluid, the world's best unseizer of stuck parts.
Better even than the expensive commercial ones.
Try a little.


Edit, not sure if the acetone will eat the plastic that the oil seal is made from? Anyone used it on something with a seal in it? Chuck?
 
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Should spin freely.the pinion shaft defintely comes out at top . That lower red arrow is pointing at a casting mark i think.... Here's a pic of my spare cover off 650L- there's nothing holding the shaft at bottom, but there "might" be a bronze sleeve bearing at bottom of hole
 

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You have to pound the hell out of it with a long, thin punch from the bottom to get it out -- you're moving both a press-fit needle bearing and a seal.

It's not easy and cracking the clutch cover is a very real possibility, so do everything you can to work with it in place.

It should rotate fairly easily -- try the various soaks and potions mentioned to get the bearing freed up, but I'd avoid acetone because that may affect the seal.
 
Yes on driving the shaft upward. Some heat on the cover around the upper bearing would help. The bearing and seal are cheap. I'd just replace them. You may even be able to find an equivalent bearing and seal in your local market.

Part# 09263-15012 Desc RN 15X22X12 BRG
Part# 09285-12006 Desc OIL SEAL
 
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I'm no expert, but your gasket may be the issue for the seized shaft, if you look closely at the excellent pictures in the links from others, you should notice there is a brass jet and part of the casting follows through to the housing of the shaft, this jet passage (if your cover has one) is blocked by what appears to be a aftermarket gasket, I found this jet while working on the clutch of my 850 the gasket on mine was correct but the jet was partially blocked, my assumption when I found this, I just assumed it was a oil mist gallery (call it what you like) to give some lube the the shaft.
i can see the jet aperture on both Charlie G and Tom203 pictures hope this is of some help.
 
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I'm no expert, but your gasket may be the issue for the seized shaft, if you look closely at the excellent pictures in the links from others, you should notice there is a brass jet and part of the casting follows through to the housing of the shaft, this jet passage (if your cover has one) is blocked by what appears to be a aftermarket gasket, I found this jet while working on the clutch of my 850 the gasket on mine was correct but the jet was partially blocked, my assumption when I found this, I just assumed it was a oil mist gallery (call it what you like) to give some lube the the shaft.
i can see the jet aperture on both Charlie G and Tom203 pictures hope this is of some help.


Good call Chris! That hole should be open to the oil port (jet).

cg
 
Thanks everyone for all your advice, very much appreciated.

I tried WD40 for a couple of days, not immersed in it, but liberally sprayed several times over that period to soak through.

It is still very hard to turn. In fact impossible to turn by hand, but I can put in wooden vise and turn it that way so as everyone says it should spin freely, so on to the next step.

I had some automatic transmission fluid and kerosene so have made a mix of that, and have the cover face side down and filled it up so the pinion is immersed. Hopefully this will help to free it up.

I didn't have any Acetone for the 50/50 mix (i think that is nail polish remover?) so hope my mix still works??!

Would I have been better to use turpentine or petrol instead of kerosene?

If still no go, then I will either have to put up with a stiffer clutch, or attempt to bash it out (carefully) but from a quick try myself a few days ago, I reckon that is going to be a pain and don't want to crack the engine cover :(
Thanks Charlie for your thread, very helpful to know the procedure should I have to do it.

Thanks all again, I will let you know how it goes in the next few days.

I have to wait 10 days for other parts to arrive from Suzuki before I can put the clutch back together anyway as I needed to replace the drive pin holder and cam no.1 stopper:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?234029-1983-GS650E-clutch-gearshift-questions

Cheers, Ian
 
Well after soaking over a few days, it was still not turning by hand.

I reckoned it had been hit by a hammer at the top which was causing it to rub on the casing so no amount of soaking was going to fix that.

I bent a long bolt and wrapped it in lots of duct tape to protect the engine cover and placed it on the bottom of the release pinion and gave the bolt a few good hits with a hammer, and sure enough it is now spinning freely.

By eye it appears to have not moved at all, but must have shifted a fraction so it's not rubbing on the casing any more.

Hurray, one problem solved. Now to wait on gearing parts and gasket to put it all back together :)

Thanks again for all your advice, I'm learning lots.
 
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