How to Unseize an Engine-My method

[gaillarry]

Update: Runs good but sure smokes a lot. Notice the more I run the engine, there's less smoke. I suspect some rings are still stuck.

If - I were to put in new rings - can the head be removed with the engine in the frame?

 

[chuck hahn]

And the stuff seeped into the exhaust, and is all over the tops of the cylinder ( head side ) in the valves..so yeah its gonna smoke like a train for a while. If it has good tires and the tranny is good..ride it for 20 miles or so and run the crap out of the entire systems.

 

[chuck hahn]

Head will come off..but you need to get the cylinders off to change rings..which means pulling the engine. If you go that far, you may as well recut the valve seats , lap the valves to the new seats, and change the valve stem seals..then the entire top end is redone.

 

[Nessism]

No need to pull the engine when pulling the cylinder. The entire top end can be removed with the crankcase still bolted to the frame.

 

[gaillarry]

Can't ride it - too cold and too much snow !!

I let the engine idle for 5 mins then rev it a little but no WOT - yet.

I'll run it every few days and see what happens, thanks for all the replies.

 

[Steve]

If - I were to put in new rings - can the head be removed with the engine in the frame?

Yes, you can remove the head. Since you will be planning on doing the rings (which means that you will be removing the cylinders), you will automatically be replacing the base gasket, too. Some guys will try to avoid that if they are just cleaning the head, but any time you remove the head, you are also compromising the integrity of the base gasket, so you should always replace BOTH of them.

By the way, those two gaskets are also the ones that are HIGHLY recoommended that you replace with genuine Suzuki gaskets, not aftermarket ones.

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[gaillarry]

No need to pull the engine when pulling the cylinder. The entire top end can be removed with the crankcase still bolted to the frame.

That's good news. If the need arises I'll put the cylinder and have a look.

 

[chuck hahn]

ED...Steve..I admittingly, have not pulled cylinders while in the frame..to which I did post. I have read that some have done it and its a tight squeeze. If my post is incorrect I accept the inaccuracy. I have only done it with the engine out of the frame.

Just for my education..do you need to pull the monts and lower the engine in the cradle to gin room or just leave bolted in?

As i said, i have only done it on engines out of the frame.

 

[first timer]

before pulling it apart run it for a good while like chuck said. Since it's been running for a bit now dump the oil into a clean pan if it's still honey colored put it back in the engine. Change the filter too. after you have put 20 miles on it change the oil again. Use the cheapest non-energy saving oil you can find for the first few changes since it's a good idea to change oil often after bringing a motor back to life.

It's not a bad thing to blip the throttle a little, especially on the street, it will clear the smoke out quicker and free the rings.

when you pull the cam cover to check valves check the condition of the cam surfaces to make sure you have lubrication (no scoring or hot spots)

 

[Nessism]

ED...Steve..I admittingly, have not pulled cylinders while in the frame..to which I did post. I have read that some have done it and its a tight squeeze. If my post is incorrect I accept the inaccuracy. I have only done it with the engine out of the frame.

Just for my education..do you need to pull the monts and lower the engine in the cradle to gin room or just leave bolted in?

As i said, i have only done it on engines out of the frame.

No Chuck, the head and cylinder pulls off without any interference at all.

 

[Steve]

ED...Steve..I admittingly, have not pulled cylinders while in the frame..to which I did post. I have read that some have done it and its a tight squeeze. If my post is incorrect I accept the inaccuracy. I have only done it with the engine out of the frame.

Just for my education..do you need to pull the monts and lower the engine in the cradle to gin room or just leave bolted in?

As i said, i have only done it on engines out of the frame.

Actually, pulling the head is harder than the cylinders. :-\\\

Once the head is removed, there is a LOT of room to lift the cylinders.

'81 850G

'80 1100E

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[chuck hahn]

Thats cool..I just have been taking for granted that it was easier to just take the engine out and be done wth it..Guess on the bench its easier to spin around and such though.

Ive read that guys have done the in frame way but looking at the head clearance and the frame it looks pretty close. Will give it a shot next time I do an upper end freshening.

Good pics of the process to. Who said i cant be taught anything? LMAO at myself , of course.

 

[1_v8_merc]

I use marvel mystery oil.

 

[Steve]

Actually, Chuck, the tightest part is getting the valve cover off. Then you remove the carbs and exhaust, then the tensioner and cam chain. Remove the cams (be sure to loop something through the chain so you don't lose it down the 'black hole'). When you remove the head, you will see that there is a bit more clearance than there was with the valve cover. When you finally get to the cylinders, you will see there is even more room to lift them off.

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[chuck hahn]

I was already visioning that removal of the cams would be another space saver...thanks.

 

[Steve]

It's not a matter of saving space. :-k

If you don't remove the cams, the only way you are going to remove the head is to cut the timing chain.

.

 

[Nessism]

Remove the cams (be sure to loop something through the chain so you don't lose it down the 'black hole').

.

Actually Steve, it's very convenient to just drop the cam chain down the tunnel in the engine. Fish it out with a magnet stick, or when you pull the cylinder off it's right there.

 

[sparki]

i just tie a length of wire/cable to the chain and let it fall too... never goes far and easy to fish out with the barrels off