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hydrologic clutch

  • Thread starter Thread starter Reaper0001
  • Start date Start date
R

Reaper0001

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has anyone put a hydrological clutch lever on their bike and if so how did they do it are their pics or some part i can buy to make this work?
any help is welcome
 
I'm sure with enough time, effort and money it could be done, but why would you want to?

Is the feather light clutch of the GS too hard or are you going for the wow factor?
Just an engineering challenge?
 
I've never heard of a hydrologic clutch, is it something new? I have seen/heard of hydraulic clutches though. I can't for the life of me figure why anyone would want to go to the trouble of replacing a a perfectly good cable system with hydraulic though, unless you've put in all race gear and now the clutch handle requires way too much power to pull it to the bars.....
 
I'm sure with enough time, effort and money it could be done, but why would you want to?

Is the feather light clutch of the GS too hard or are you going for the wow factor?
Just an engineering challenge?
feather light LOL your funny bro
but for real have you seen or herd of anything that works
 
You can buy bits on ebay for them to be done up.
It would be an interesting project but really why bother

the equilateral symmetry is the best reason I can think of.
 
While I would not call it feather light, if the cable system bothers you there is something wrong with the system.
Having said that, while I have not seen it done, it is physically possible. All you have to do is design and implement the piece that converts hydraulic pressure to mechanical movement, plus a way to attach it, and you are done.
 
There are two ways to go to hydraulic - the first is hard, if you have a pushrod actuated clutch, you can get a complete hydraulic clutch system off another bike, and then find a way to mount the slave cylinder so that it pushes on the pushrod. The problem with that is that the mounting has to be super stiff, to make sure that the slave cylinder stays put and only the pushrod moves.

The other works by fitting something like this - http://powersportskatalog.magura.com/hymec-honda-crf150r-2008-p-0737253.html which will just hook into the factory cable mounting on the engine, and pull the clutch in that way. You need to figure out the right model for your bike, mainly by looking at the stroke of the slave cylinder and the length of the hydraulic hose.

Honestly, seems like a lot of work, the sort of work that should be at the end of a long list of mods on an otherwise very complete custom bike. If your clutch is currently too stiff for you, there's probably something wrong with it, I don't think any of the GSs were built with a stiff clutch. Check to make sure the springs are stock (if they're not put stock springs in there), and make sure your cable is good. A new clutch cable can do wonders for the feel and lever effort. Buy a genuine Suzuki part, they're only $15 or $20.
 
What the heck is a "hydrological clutch lever"?
 
Kent your gonna give me a complex man! I work with my hands, they are pretty strong, and there is no way I could regularly pull that lever with my pinky
 
Then fix your clutch. Cables, levers, basket wear, something in there is causing problems.
It really should be easy to pull.
 
I can understand why he'd want to go hydraulic. I can't seem to keep my clutch cables from breaking every other year.

Yes, these are Suzuki factory cables, yes it is a Suzuki factory lever, yes the cable is properly lubed and routed.

The problem lies in the stupid plastic shim that compresses and deforms after the first pull of the clutch lever, causing the barrel to become misaligned in the lever, causing undue strain and then ultimately breaking at the most inopportune time.

I'd love a hydraulic clutch on my 82 Kat.
 
An easy pull with the pinky alone is normal for any size GS.

If yours is harder you have a clutch issue to fix.

With the 1100 springs on my 750, I probably have the best built little finger around...

Oh buy the OEM clutch cables. The Motion Pros are not nearly as well built. I got 27 years off my stock cable, bought a Motion Pro, 3 years later went back to a OEM.
 
I can understand why he'd want to go hydraulic. I can't seem to keep my clutch cables from breaking every other year.

Yes, these are Suzuki factory cables, yes it is a Suzuki factory lever, yes the cable is properly lubed and routed.

The problem lies in the stupid plastic shim that compresses and deforms after the first pull of the clutch lever, causing the barrel to become misaligned in the lever, causing undue strain and then ultimately breaking at the most inopportune time.

I'd love a hydraulic clutch on my 82 Kat.

Never had that problem. Like I said, 27 years on the OEM and several years are with the 1100 clutch springs installed as well.
 
The 1991 gsx1100g I had, had a hydraulic clutch and I hated it. Terrible feel and a real b!tch to bleed. It was actually harder to pull than the cable clutch on my 1982 1100gl.
 
I can understand why he'd want to go hydraulic. I can't seem to keep my clutch cables from breaking every other year.

And others of us are using original cables for 90,000 or so miles...

Let me guess, it breaks right up next to the clutch lever, right?

If so, you're not doing it right.
 
I can understand why he'd want to go hydraulic. I can't seem to keep my clutch cables from breaking every other year.

Yes, these are Suzuki factory cables, yes it is a Suzuki factory lever, yes the cable is properly lubed and routed.

The problem lies in the stupid plastic shim that compresses and deforms after the first pull of the clutch lever, causing the barrel to become misaligned in the lever, causing undue strain and then ultimately breaking at the most inopportune time.

I'd love a hydraulic clutch on my 82 Kat.

Try putting a new lever, maybe the hole is elongated/damaged. My cables last forever.
 
Try putting a new lever, maybe the hole is elongated/damaged. My cables last forever.

This is probably the issue.... But now I've got a blown starter clutch to deal with!
 
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