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I broke the clutch cover mounting tab HELP!

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gs1000g
  • Start date Start date
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Gs1000g

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I was trying to get the Gs1000 back together after putting in a new thrust bearing. The bolt snapped off in the crank case, I used an easy out but it damaged the threads. I tried to helicoil and re tap but it snapped. So what are my options here? Any advice is appreciated

https://imgur.com/a/p5bvpjv
 
So, you have a broken tap down in that hole?
How deep into the hole is the broken tap?
Not a lot of options. And none I can think of that don't require at least pulling the motor.
 
I tried to helicoil and re tap but it snapped.

https://imgur.com/a/p5bvpjv

Are you saying the tap snapped or the section of the casting snapped as it looks in the pictures, either way as said already pulling the motor looks the only viable option.
if you feel brave try breaking the already cracked piece off remove anything broken in the hole clean throughly and fill and mould with some good metal epoxy and drill and tap.
 
There isn’t a tap down the hole, when I tapped it and put in the helicoil it broke the casting. I called my uncle and sent photos, he is a professional fabricator and he said he could weld this no issues so here is hoping to that being true
 
If the bolt can be removed the area can be TIG welded up, filed smooth at the mating surface, redrilled and retapped. BUT if it were me i wouldnt feel bad about just filling whats there with JB Weld, file it smooth, and use some Threebond 1207B in that area on each side of the gasket. Install the cover and let set overnight before adding oil....ride away. Go a few inches each side of the hole with the 1207B and it probably wont leak.
 
There isn’t a tap down the hole, when I tapped it and put in the helicoil it broke the casting. I called my uncle and sent photos, he is a professional fabricator and he said he could weld this no issues so here is hoping to that being true

A good aluminium welder could fill that and finish it flush / remake the necessary shape.
 
There isn’t a tap down the hole, when I tapped it and put in the helicoil it broke the casting. I called my uncle and sent photos, he is a professional fabricator and he said he could weld this no issues so here is hoping to that being true

Your uncle no doubt knows that the material must be scrupulously clean. And be sure he grounds as close to the repair as possible. I assume you're going to attempt this without pulling the motor, or disassembling it.
 
Your uncle no doubt knows that the material must be scrupulously clean. And be sure he grounds as close to the repair as possible. I assume you're going to attempt this without pulling the motor, or disassembling it.


Yes he has the entire set up, he used to travel the US welding Stainless steel tubing. The motor is going to be staying in the bike, i will put it on a bike stand and elevate it as much as possible.
 
I'd pull the clutch hub out. That will give much better access for the welding and subsequent cleanup work.
 
And stuff the cavity with WET rags while he is welding and grinding. Catch all the flying crap you can.
 
Last edited:
I was trying to get the Gs1000 back together after putting in a new thrust bearing. The bolt snapped off in the crank case, I used an easy out but it damaged the threads. I tried to helicoil and re tap but it snapped. So what are my options here? Any advice is appreciated

https://imgur.com/a/p5bvpjv

Posting for your future reference, and for anyone that happens to run across this thread in the future, the only place EZ-Outs should be in the shop is in the garbage pail. Get a decent set of left handed drill bits, some quality spiral screw extractors (I like Irwin-Hanson), and a hand tap (don't use extractors in your drill, ever). Ive used these for everything from boogered up carb pilot jets to sheared head bolts, and never had an issue with screwed up threads.

FWIW my fix would probably be very redneck. JB-Weld the broken off piece back on, and then fill the cavity with JB-Weld too. Drill and tap, and forget about it. As you posted above, welding is probably a more professional fix if done properly.
 
Posting for your future reference, and for anyone that happens to run across this thread in the future, the only place EZ-Outs should be in the shop is in the garbage pail. Get a decent set of left handed drill bits, some quality spiral screw extractors (I like Irwin-Hanson), and a hand tap (don't use extractors in your drill, ever). Ive used these for everything from boogered up carb pilot jets to sheared head bolts, and never had an issue with screwed up threads.

FWIW my fix would probably be very redneck. JB-Weld the broken off piece back on, and then fill the cavity with JB-Weld too. Drill and tap, and forget about it. As you posted above, welding is probably a more professional fix if done properly.


I say easy out but it was the spiral screw extractor. I tried to use the spiral screw extractor but the bolt was not a flat clean break, i hit it with the punch to try and get a center hole so i could get the extractor in it, but as i twisted it out came the aluminum threads. I do need a set of left handed drill bits though that maybe would have prevented this. If my uncle does not come through JB weld may be the next viable option.
 
I say easy out but it was the spiral screw extractor. I tried to use the spiral screw extractor but the bolt was not a flat clean break, i hit it with the punch to try and get a center hole so i could get the extractor in it, but as i twisted it out came the aluminum threads. I do need a set of left handed drill bits though that maybe would have prevented this. If my uncle does not come through JB weld may be the next viable option.

I'm confused with your wording here, you drilled a hole for the spiral extractor and that's when you boogered up your threads? Or you didn't drill a hole?
 
Sorry for the poor wording I was in class.

I was torquing down the clutch cover, the bolt snapped down in the hole but wasn't a clean flat break. I then used a punch to try and make a center hole in the bolt before I then drilled out the bolt and inserted the extractor when I was backing out the bolt it brought the threads with it.
 
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