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I cleaned my carbs - the good and bad

  • Thread starter Thread starter bille
  • Start date Start date
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bille

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So I cleaned my carbs after watching that video 100 times. I haven't put them back on yet, because there were some issues.....


The good:
The carbs appeared pretty clean already
There was green stains in them possibly pointing to sea foam use.

The bad:
All of the float needles are missing the little clip - Does this really matter? I think the clip just holds in the needle in it's filter/container under the float? Like in case the bike is ever upside down :)

Speaking of the float needles, I couldn't get two of the screws out. This means I WAS able to remove the float and the needle, but not the round thing the needle sits in, under the float. I did spray a bunch of carb cleaner into the holder. I could cut the screw but if it's clean enough I'd rather leave it for next time.

There is a jet under a rubber plug in each carb. On one of them I tore up the head a little getting it out. I can still get it in and out, I'm just wondering if the head (including the screw driver slot) is part of the design that would I did might screw with that carb?

Speaking again about the brass holder things with the filter at the end...the float needle and float sit on top of them...the two I did get out I soaked in carb cleaner and didn't remove the rubber o-ring. The o-rings grew in side and wouldn't fit back into the carb body, so I had to order two new o-rings and I'm waiting on them before I can put the carbs back on.

I'm planning on getting a carb sync tool and syncing the carbs after they are back on...also, I'm ordering new intake manifold boots and rings.
 
"This means I WAS able to remove the float and the needle, but not the round thing the needle sits in, under the float. I did spray a bunch"

you need to get all the float needle seats out (for cleaning and replace the o-ring in each seat, or fuel might just bypass the needle) - best to do job right first time.
Those rubber plugs are covering the pilot jets- another thing you want to get out completely. No matter how clean your carbs appear, the pilot jet passages are tiny and resist cleaning once gummed up.

did you get o-ring kit from cycleorings or are you piecing them at hardware store?
 
Save yourself from some time in the long run and do it correctly before you put them back on. The green goo may very well be bad gas, which is likely in some passages as well. Time spent now is time and aggravation saved later. Many a post has been put up here with questions related to problems due to an incomplete carb overhaul.
 
I didn't know about cycleorings.com until yesterday, so I ordered my float needle orings from http://www.suzukipartshouse.com. I did order 4 of them, so I guess I can cut the two screws out that are stripped and replace those rings too.

For the jets under the rubber plugs, I was able to get them all out and I did get all the jets out, I just tore up the screw slot on the jets a little.

I will pull everything apart again tonight and post some pictures so you guys can see better what I'm talking about.
 
I took apart one of the carbs just now, but the only oring I'm seeing is on the float needle seat. Am I missing something or was these carbs already missing some orings? I attached a picture of all the parts I took off and in the picture I'm pointing at the only part that appears to have an oring.

IMG_2067.jpg
 
there's only 2 o-rings in the float bowls, the needle seat and the drain screw. the only other seal in the bowls is the pilot jet plug. bs32 carbs have a rubber plug, bs34 carbs have an aluminum plug that requires an o-ring.
 
And then there are the o-rings around the mixture screws and the fuel transfer tubes and the vent Ts.

You get ALL of them in the kit from cycleorings, but you should also get the o-rings for the intake boots, along with the stainless screws that hold the boots in place.

When you order your carb o-ring kits, the bowl drains screw o-rings are NOT included, you have to spend an extra penny for that option. Splurge, spend the penny.

.
 
I noticed the screw driver slots on the pilot jets gets torn up easy...how tight should I be making them when I put them in? I have to buy two new ones because I totally tore up the heads of the old ones.
 
They should be snug enough to not come out on their own, but no "gorilla-torque" is necessary.

.
 
I just order cycleoring.com and two new pilot jets to replace the ones I damaged. I will revisit this thread when those come in the mail.
 
So I cleaned my carbs after watching that video 100 times. I haven't put them back on yet, because there were some issues.....

The good:
The carbs appeared pretty clean already
There was green stains in them possibly pointing to sea foam use.

The bad:...

So, do you wish you had let them be?

Was the bike running okay before you started?

Just curious.
 
So, do you wish you had let them be?

Was the bike running okay before you started?

Just curious.

The bike was running but the idle was messed up. I would have to reset it with every ride, sometimes I would have to pull over and reset it in the middle of a ride. So no, this had to be done. Plus, by pulling out the carbs I was able to find that my air box was all jacked up and that my carb intake boots needed replacing.

It's all part of owning a 30+ year old bike.
 
You did the right thing cleaning the carbs if there were issues and you weren't sure about their condition.

Be careful with reassembly, many of these parts are small and soft.
 
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