i cleaned my carbs without disassembly

[Guest]

I also have a '82 GS1100EZ and I have never cleaned the carbs, the bike runs great! I had Chef do it!
I also had a clutch problem, wouldn't engage smoothly, but it fixed itself

Your clutch rattle could be caused by a loose nut holding it all together
fairly common on these GS1100's.

 

[Mad Mark]

Well after the above post....I will give up on this member and this thread....

Your offered some good sound advice and knowledge, yet you crap all over it....

good luck in getting assistance in the future, I have a feeling a lot of members here will be ignoring forther posts and or putting you on their ignore list....

Cheers

but I am sure your post was all in jest.....

.

i hope thats not the case.

ive followed everyones advice except dipping my carbs, and just wanted to tell you guys it runs great with out doing it.

sorry if im coming off as a smart a** its not on purpose.

 

[loud et]

IMO the OP was never saying "dont dip your carbs and use new o rings"....he was just saying "Hey, I gave it a shot to just spray my carbs out, and it worked"
He was just happy that for a moment his quick cleaning got him on the road. I also beleive , by evidence of his saying he got the o ring kit that he fully expects to rebuild his carbs sometime in the future and am sure he is aware the old o rings are prone to failure.
I just posted yesterday in "what did you wrench on today" how I tried to repair a set of 4 intake boots , as the rubber was seperating from the metal base. I certainly did not say/elude that "Its a waste of money to buy new ones, or unneccesary to replace the boots to have a good running bike" I was just experimenting on a repair and using them temporarily just to get the bike running to test the engine/trans.
Neither myself in my little test, nor the OP in this test beleive the fixes are long term/guranteed perfect, I think the OP was just "giving it a whirl" to see if his experiment would work. It is when people on forum refuse to listen to experience and time tested methods/facts about these bikes that they need to be called out so to speak and told "If you want to fight this solid and sure information we are giving you , then our help is pointless, so we shall hold back in giving it"
The OP kept a fun attitude even after getting confronted and I admire that. He is just having fun, let him try his little carb test. He will learn and rebuild his carbs when the time comes....at 3 am. Just like he said. ha ha
It is just darn ridiculous the amount of new members who refuse to take advice. Fighting the obvious and inevitable that tons of regular maintenance and replacement parts are in order to have a proper running machine. I am new myself but you wont find me even asking why my bike is bogging when I have refused to change the intake boots or my carbs are dripping or there is gas in my oil when I have not replaced the petcock and torn down my carbs. I try to be helpful on this forum, but the unresearched questions are rage inducing sometimes. I just walk away from them . Once again, I think the OP is fully aware of the difference between proper and just getting by for now.

 

[robertbarr]

oh and i did buy Roberts o-ring kit so when my bike starts puking gas i can fix that.

See? We knew all along you were a solid, upright citizen.

And yeah, there's a difference in the California Berryman's, but I have no first-hand info on how less effective the stuff is (if at all). For the Chemos in the crowd, their (Berryman's) MSDS has all the details.

 

[Guest]

The '82 GS1100EZ is not all that hard to work on, at least compared to some other models. It doesn't have points, carb boot O rings, drive shaft,
valves are easy, rockers instead of buckets. Parts are easier to get than say for a GS1000. I never had any problems with the petcock.
Rebuilding the carbs would be probably the biggest challenge. The clutches are a sore spot, and the early models didn't have welded cranks.

Here's the service manual
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/80-83_GS1100T-LT-EX-1000SZ-EZ-SD-ED-ESD.pdf

Here's the carb rebuild tutorial, courtesy of Ed
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

 

[Mad Mark]

The '82 GS1100EZ is not all that hard to work on, at least compared to some other models. It doesn't have points, carb boot O rings, drive shaft,
valves are easy, rockers instead of buckets. Parts are easier to get than say for a GS1000. I never had any problems with the petcock.
Rebuilding the carbs would be probably the biggest challenge. The clutches are a sore spot, and the early models didn't have welded cranks.

Here's the service manual
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/80-83_GS1100T-LT-EX-1000SZ-EZ-SD-ED-ESD.pdf

Here's the carb rebuild tutorial, courtesy of Ed
http://www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_BS-CV_Carburetor_Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf

yeah mine doesnt have a welded crank, its a early 82. i think the biggest challenge is getting the dang carbs off the bike! lucky for me my boots where nice and rubbery so it only took about 10 minutes.

and ive used that service manual a bunch. i just wonder why its on the mt sac website? that school is like half hour from me.

oh and where you serious about the nut being loose on the clutch? im wondering if you where joking because it seems i made everyone hate me lol

 

[Steve]

. i just wonder why its on the mt sac website? that school is like half hour from me.

oh and where you serious about the nut being loose on the clutch? im wondering if you where joking because it seems i made everyone hate me lol

The manuals and everything else is on the Mt. SAC site because our resident librarian and Welcome Wagon Host, BassCliff, works there.


If your clutch is making noise, one likely symptom is a loose nut.


We try to be serious about stuff until we are shown that the recipient doesn't care about what we are saying, then we might switch our attitude to "we don't care, either". I am not saying that you are one of those recipients (yet), but there are several points in this thread that you seem to be ignoring or passing off as "I haven't had any problems with that", so you might be headed in that direction.

.

 

[Guest]

i think the biggest challenge is getting the dang carbs off the bike! lucky for me my boots where nice and rubbery so it only took about 10 minutes.

oh and where you serious about the nut being loose on the clutch? im wondering if you where joking because it seems i made everyone hate me lol

Do you think it's going to be easier to get the carbs back on than off?
Of course I was serious (me jest? all the time, but not this time) about the nut loose on the clutch. Here is but one of many examples. Read the thread in it's entirety.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=197008&highlight=Clutch+Nut

and another,
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=194013&highlight=Clutch+Nut

 

[Mad Mark]

Do you think it's going to be easier to get the carbs back on than off?
Of course I was serious (me jest? all the time, but not this time) about the nut loose on the clutch. Here is but one of many examples. Read the thread in it's entirety.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=197008&highlight=Clutch+Nut

and another,
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=194013&highlight=Clutch+Nut

i think it was equally hard to put them back on as it was taking them off if remember. thanks for the links and the tip, never read anything about that before.

 

[chuck hahn]

You didnt make anyone HATE you....you made us all care enough to save you the short lived joy thats gonna turn to utter sadness and desperation and that voice in your head telling you..."See, I should have done it right in the first place". Youre not the first thats come along with the snake oil fix...only to be posting in short order that they got stranded and had to be rescued...your choice though.

 

[Steve]

i think it was equally hard to put them back on as it was taking them off if remember.

You should be thankful you have an 1100G, then. The 1000G is about the same, only the 850G is easier. About the worst is the 550 ('82 and earlier).

By the way, if it takes you more than 5 minutes to remove the carbs, you must have lost the tools necessary to remove the tank. If the tools are handily near the bike, it should not take any more than 5 minutes to put the bike on the centerstand, remove the seat and tank, then pull the carbs and have them on the bench.

.

 

[Guest]

You should be thankful you have an 1100G, then. The 1000G is about the same, only the 850G is easier. About the worst is the 550 ('82 and earlier).

By the way, if it takes you more than 5 minutes to remove the carbs, you must have lost the tools necessary to remove the tank. If the tools are handily near the bike, it should not take any more than 5 minutes to put the bike on the centerstand, remove the seat and tank, then pull the carbs and have them on the bench.

.

I do believe he has an '82 GS1100EZ, a whole different animal. Couldn't find where he said he had a G.

 

[Guest]

Clutch rattles are a common problem. You've been told about the nut that comes loose, but there's also some springs that hold on the backing plate that compress and cause a rattle. Sometimes those are "shimmed" with extra washers so there isn't any slop. But you won't know what you got until you get in there.
If your oil level is in the normal range, you can just put the bike on the sidestand and remove the cover without having to drain the oil.
Check out this link.
http://www.theflyingbanana.com/clutchhub.htm

 

[Guest]

Mark 's GS is running and he's happy with it. Even if it isn't perfect, he's happy. Most people don't enjoy taking things apart and learning how to maintain carburetors. Knowing that the bike can run acceptably can be he incentive needed to upgrade performance by a thorough carb job when and if it is needed.

...
1) Those carbs or any carbs that sit for more than a year will need a break down and clean.

2)The ethanol effect eats rubber like nothing else.

3) All that has to happen to leave you stranded is a small chunk of varnish from 10 years ago to make it's way through the carbs and get clogged. ....

1) & 3) I stored a GS650G for three years when I lived in Mexico. A Suzuki dealer prepped the bike. Too much oil clogged the engine, and probably downed the plugs. But, with fresh gas, the bike ran very well, without touching the carbs.

2) Ethanol has essentially no effect on the fuel system component of any motor vehicle sold in the US after the late 1970s. "Gasohol" was being sold in several states by the late 70s. Fuel chemists, manufacturers of cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats and small engines all designed ethanol compatibility in their products by then. Rubber compounds were tested and reformulated to insure ethanol compatibility. I know this because I worked in the rubber industry. I attended technical meetings where the data was presented. I, and many other forum members have used gasohol for decades without problems.

Methanol is a completley different beast. 10% methanol (wood alcohol) is highly corrosive to most rubber compounds. 1% methanol isn't very bad, nor is 100% methanol, but 10% is very bad.

 

[Guest]

2) Ethanol has essentially no effect on the fuel system component of any motor vehicle sold in the US after the late 1970s. "Gasohol" was being sold in several states by the late 70s. Fuel chemists, manufacturers of cars, trucks, motorcycles, boats and small engines all designed ethanol compatibility in their products by then. Rubber compounds were tested and reformulated to insure ethanol compatibility. I know this because I worked in the rubber industry. I attended technical meetings where the data was presented. I, and many other forum members have used gasohol for decades without problems.

Methanol is a completley different beast. 10% methanol (wood alcohol) is highly corrosive to most rubber compounds. 1% methanol isn't very bad, nor is 100% methanol, but 10% is very bad.

There's lots of folks out there that would beg to differ with you on the "negative" effects of ethanol.
http://www.motorcycle-accessories-wiseguy.com/ethanol-motorcycle.html

 

[Steve]

I do believe he has an '82 GS1100EZ, a whole different animal. Couldn't find where he said he had a G.

You are quite right.

Don't know where I got the "G", but his signature clearly says "1982 GS1100EZ".

Hey, Mark, ... about that '5-minute carb removal'. ... Never mind. :-\\\

.

 

[exdirtbiker]

If your motor sounds like a bunch of bearing fell apart while you blip the throttle in neutral, I'ld say the springs in the basket are shot. Sounds like this: ( click on the pictures )


and this:

 

[1_v8_merc]

1.) Sure you can "spray" the carbs, but it's a 50/50 chance. How long did the bike sit? Were the carbs left with gunky gas in them? I've had bikes like this and you MUST dip them. But on the other hand, I've had bikes that were drained of gas prior to storage, or the bike only sat for 1 or 2 years...and I'll just spray the carbs very well, then blow compressed air.
(i have a 78 750 GS, sat for 5 years. The carbs were drained prior, so I sprayed them out, and I'm still riding it 2 years later, lol. I just came back from a 6 hour ride last weekend, ran absolutely flawless.)

2.) Most people who "shortcut" on the dipping are really just scared to rip everything apart and don't wanna be bothered with sync'ing the carbs and resetting the mixture screws, etc.
Trust me....we were ALL new to riding at some point, and you just want to ****ing RIDE, and you take shortcuts...i get it.
Take it from me....they get you nowhere fast! It will come back to bite you in the ass.

 

[Guest]

There's lots of folks out there that would beg to differ with you on the "negative" effects of ethanol.
http://www.motorcycle-accessories-wiseguy.com/ethanol-motorcycle.html

Note the differences between E10 and E85.

The only problem with E10 for GSes is that, if enough moisture is absorbed, the water-ethanol mixture can settle out. A lot of water would need to be absorbed to for that to happen. Normal use prevents it. Draining the system, or the addition of a small amount of methanol (Heet) can fix it.

The advice on storage is good. I stored my GS for about ten winters with E10 in the tank, with no problems.

As far as gaskets and O-rings go, the person who wrote the web page just doesn't know what he is talking about, at least when using E10. The rubber compounds were reformulated over 30 years ago, when necessary.

...2.) Most people who "shortcut" on the dipping are really just scared to rip everything apart and don't wanna be bothered with sync'ing the carbs and resetting the mixture screws, etc.
Trust me....we were ALL new to riding at some point, and you just want to ****ing RIDE, and you take shortcuts...i get it.
Take it from me....they get you nowhere fast! It will come back to bite you in the ass.

Makes perfect sense for a neophyte to just ride for now. he can learn to take care of carburetors after the riding season ends.

 

[Guest]

Note the differences between E10 and E85.

The only problem with E10 for GSes is that, if enough moisture is absorbed, the water-ethanol mixture can settle out. A lot of water would need to be absorbed to for that to happen. Normal use prevents it. Draining the system, or the addition of a small amount of methanol (Heet) can fix it.

The advice on storage is good. I stored my GS for about ten winters with E10 in the tank, with no problems.

As far as gaskets and O-rings go, the person who wrote the web page just doesn't know what he is talking about, at least when using E10. The rubber compounds were reformulated over 30 years ago, when necessary.



Makes perfect sense for a neophyte to just ride for now. he can learn to take care of carburetors after the riding season ends.

All I know is from what I've read about ethanol, supposedly phase separation starts after two weeks. The water building up and collecting on the bottom of my tank bothers me, rust! of course that goes through the carbs into the mufflers. Also, green stuff will start growing in that water eventually. I personally would prefer real gasoline.
At the bikes shops I visited there seems to be a post about ethanol and what you can do to counter those negative effects. Surely all those people can't be wrong. I think my world was better without it. My opinion though, just saying.
I guess I can stop buying seafoam, startron, and stabil, Not!