I just Bought a Nitrous Kit

[Turtleface]

I tried it, for street ridding, it sucks because:
3_It melts a hole through standard pistons$$$$$.
Bill

How's that? I've run nitrous on various automotive engines through the years, both stock, and decidedly non-stock. I never experienced any sort of engine damage in any of the motors I had a hand in building. Are GS pistons exceptionally soft or something?

 

[Agemax]

its not just a case of "hitting a button" you should only use it at full throttle. most kits come with a WOT micro switch to activate it.
if you simply activate it at 2000 rpm in top gear,then yes, you will lunch your motor

 

[Nicholaschase29]

I need to get some new intake boots for it - I have the metal nozzle grommets to thread the nozzles into in the boots. It has a WOT switch and i'm going to wire it through my horn. I'm trying to figure out bottle location and I should get a larger bottle as this one will empty pretty quickly. Here are the specs for the kit.

Jetting------HP per cylinder------Consumption
16 / 18-------9 BHP---------------.1 lb./ 10 sec.
18 / 22------12 BHP---------------.15 lb. / 10 sec.
20 / 24------15 BHP---------------.18 lb./ 10 sec.
22 / 26------17 BHP---------------.20 lb. / 10 sec.

Also, here's a link to instructions for the entire kit:
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/A5058-SNOS.pdf

So total HP could be + 36,48,60,68 HP. You can see how my 10oz (5/8lb) bottle isn't going to last long. But I think half of it is for its novelty. Does anyone know the rules as far as bottle location and the nylon lines that go between the solenoid and nozzles for the street and strip?

 

[skip]

I had a 2 lb bottle totally hidden. It was under the seat between the two side covers on my 1150. a 2lb bottle got me 4 decent 1/4 mile runs

 

[trippivot]

nirous is clean, easy, and very predictable.

horror stories come from careless tuners and ham fisted idiots.

bottle explosions from using a torch to get the pressure up.
bottles coming loose and crashing on the pavement at 100mph++
back fire explosion from too low of rpm engagement causing a clothing fire at speed.
I have more I could share....

I've seen both good and explosive results. proceed with caution. be aware, use your best judgement on the conservative side when dealing with this stuff.

we commonly use a 20/24 the 22/26 is a little much unless your top ring end gap is over 0.060 and the piston to cylinder clearance is 3-4 times the normal regular engine clearance . in the range of .008" instead of .002"

a good nitrous engine is very loose and considered worn out to normally aspirated engines clearances. your piston crown WILL expand under the pressure and load. more than it ever has before the giggle gas.

another thing... nitrouss is like cocaine.
" used to do a little then a little got a more and more" Just keep tryin to go a little faster-- a little faster than before.

 

[Guest]

I need to get some new intake boots for it - I have the metal nozzle grommets to thread the nozzles into in the boots. It has a WOT switch and i'm going to wire it through my horn. I'm trying to figure out bottle location and I should get a larger bottle as this one will empty pretty quickly. Here are the specs for the kit.

Jetting------HP per cylinder------Consumption
16 / 18-------9 BHP---------------.1 lb./ 10 sec.
18 / 22------12 BHP---------------.15 lb. / 10 sec.
20 / 24------15 BHP---------------.18 lb./ 10 sec.
22 / 26------17 BHP---------------.20 lb. / 10 sec.

Also, here's a link to instructions for the entire kit:
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/Technical/A5058-SNOS.pdf

So total HP could be + 36,48,60,68 HP. You can see how my 10oz (5/8lb) bottle isn't going to last long. But I think half of it is for its novelty. Does anyone know the rules as far as bottle location and the nylon lines that go between the solenoid and nozzles for the street and strip?

Drilling and tapping the bottom of the intake port is a way better idea than putting the foggers in the boots.

 

[Agemax]

Drilling and tapping the bottom of the intake port is a way better idea than putting the foggers in the boots.

would utilizing the screw holes in the head for the carb balancing adaptors not be a better idea?

 

[rapidray]

No because you would have to drill them & tap to 1/8 pipe thread & then you would have no sync port left. Also, the best place to install for the best spray pattern is DIRECTLY in the bottom of the port.

 

[80GS1000]

Just curious - no experience with NOS here. How do you add more fuel on a carb'ed bike/car for when the nitrous system has been activated to handle the O2 injection from the NOS? On a fuel injected bike/car, seems like it'd be easier to dump in more fuel when the laughing gas injection is active since the system is all computer controlled.

 

[Nicholaschase29]

There are two types of systems - wet and dry nitrous. Wet nitrous injections is spraying both fuel and nitrous into the engine, while dry nitrous is just spraying nitrous. The kit I have is a wet kit so a line runs from a fuel pump to a fuel solenoid and then that connects to one end of the fogger/nozzle. The nitrous goes from the nitrous bottle to the nitrous solenoid and then to another input on the fogger. The fuel and nitrous mix and are sprayed out the nozzle. Different jets can be placed in the nozzles to control the size of the shot.

 

[BadBillyB]

Once upon a time (25 years ago) I bought a 100 shot nitrous kit from Orient Express in New York. I put it on my high 8 second drag bike and put a momentary push button switch on the left bar (horn button type). off to the drag strip we go to test it out.......I staged in the right lane for my first pass with the nitrous armed and ready....Left the line good, shifting through the gears, caught 5th gear a little early and pushed the button.....The tire broke loose (at roughly 130mph) and I immediately went LEFT into the other guys lane way ahead of him...... He now had a time slip he could show off to his friends....After talking with the guys at Orient Express, they told me to use a micro switch on the throttle and hit the nitrous right off the line. This was made possible by changing to a REALLY tall gearing, and I was rewarded with a 164.85 MPH timeslip and the ride of my life. Imagine going through the "lights" with the front wheel still in the air on a GS1000.....I soon took it off and went back to getting HP the honest way....Billy

 

[Guest]

Fuel injected bikes can run a "dry kit", nitrous only. http://aperaceparts.com/nx.html

The way they work, is the nitrous entering the air stream signals the ecu that there is more oxygen, and the ecu adds fuel.

The upside to these kits is they are less money than a wet kit, and pretty easy to install. The downside is that the ecu can only add so much extra fuel. If you exceed that limit by putting in too much nos, you quickly roast stuff.

The kit we sell is jetted as a 25 shot. That is pretty safe with most ecus. I have seen dry kits advertised as 50 shot. If they truly are, there is going to be some bikes that the ecu and injectors can't cope with it.

With the wet kits that put both fuel and nos thru the fogger, as long as you stay two jet sizes larger on fuel than nos, you should be pretty safe. That is until, you make too much power and start pushing head gaskets out, breaking cast pistons, etc.
http://aperaceparts.com/nospage.html

 

[Nicholaschase29]

So I had some free time and I rigged her all up. I put the smallest jets in (16/18) which is about a 9hp shot per cylinder. I haven't used it yet but so far everything is functioning properly. Here are some photos..