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I just stripped my 1150 rotor puller

Carter Turk

Carter Turk

Forum Sage
Charter Member
Been hearing an unsettling vibration/whirring sound for several months now. It sounded like it was coming from the clutch area.

After draining the oil, I found numerous metal shavings on my magnetic oil drain plug. not good.

I pulled the clutch for a look inside. Suprisingly, it looked nice and tidy.
Then I removed the oil pan for a look.

I took off the oil sump filter and sprayed it out watching many more small shavings of metal coming out.

I spun the gears from the input shaft and peered up with a flashlight. No teeth missing from the gears that were spinning.

Since I've had issues with my starter clutch 3-4 times in the past, I looked there next.. All three bolts are shaking around quite a bit. Luckily the rotor has a dowel recess machined in the back.

After removing the rotor nut, I threaded the puller and started cranking away. The threads pushing on the crankshaft end are what stripped.

Any thoughts about one puller being better than another or if retapping the puller with standard threads would work? Thanks for any help
 
Your bike may be different, but on mine the threads/hole on the rotor itself is bigger than the one on the crankshaft. That means a big bolt is all you need for a puller. It threads into the rotor, then pushes against the end of the crank. Get it tight enough and she'll pop right off.

If you're saying you stripped the threads on the rotor itself (not the crank), then you'll obviously need a new rotor. With that in mind there are probably a variety of ways to remove the rotor without regard for its safety (normal methods are designed to be kind to the rotor). Some people jam wedges (screwdrivers) between the gear and the rotor then bang on the rotor with a hammer. Or you could use a regular automotive puller with the fingers. Basically all the ways people tell you not to use, since you'll have to replace that rotor anyway.
 
Basically the bolt threads butting into the end of the crank are what stripped.

I'm thinking about trying a helicoil with standard thread, because the thickness of each thread is a little fatter.

The problem is the helicoil kit is more expensive than a puller, but may not strip out again.

I'll let you know what happens hopefully by tomorrow.
 
I presume the puller looks like this:

images


If this is correct then you could try tapping it for a larger thread, and I see no problem whatever with that, bearing in mind that you need a hardened bolt to use when the tapping is done, or you find a nut with the same thread as the bolt and fit it inside the puller, with a star washer behind it.

No promise made that the nut will not slip, even with the washer, but the cost is nil, and it is worth a try.
 
I finally got the rotor off last night with another puller from a shop I hardly ever do business with. He actually loaned me the tool and said "don't try to break it ok!".

It was on there tight. All the metal shavings appear to be from the allen bolts captured and spinning around on their ends between the rotor and starter clutch.

The bad news is I used a slide hammer before I located the puller and another local mechanic frowned on that approach. I used the stripped out puller with a long bolt inserted backwards. Hopefully I did not destroy my crank.

It proved impossible to drill out the stripped out puller with homestyle tools. Another friend tryed the $30 11/16 bit I bought on his lathe and it just spun around. Steel is too hard I guess.
 
t3rmin said:
Your bike may be different, but on mine the threads/hole on the rotor itself is bigger than the one on the crankshaft. That means a big bolt is all you need for a puller. It threads into the rotor, then pushes against the end of the crank. Get it tight enough and she'll pop right off.
Click to expand...

What size bolt? Does anyone know if this will work on an '81 GS750EX? I'm about to tackle a sticking starter clutch and would rather not pay $40 for a puller that may not work.
 
I think this puller maybe the same one for your bike. I wouldn't discourage you from buying one. I used it 3-4 times before it stripped out.

It's a great thing to have in your quiver of tools.

I failed to do the tapping thing with hammer after the bolt pressing on the crank snugged up. I believe this is why the tap stripped out. The red loctite on the taper probably didn't help either.

The one I borrowed from the shop worked fine with the hammer tapping.
 
What is the nut size and thread type please, save me from taking crank to bolt joint.
 
When you use the puller are you trying to tighten the bolt until the rotor pops off? The way to do it is tighten the bolt up good then rap the end of the bolt with a hammer and it will pop off, if it doesn't pop off the first time then tighten it a little more and rap it again with the hammer.
 
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