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I tore into my vm carbs...

  • Thread starter Thread starter slyone
  • Start date Start date
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slyone

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I got all my stuff so being anxious, I couldn't hold off:) Freakin bowls are clean as a whistle:( prolly didn't need it? Oh well..life story! Got 2 in the dip and keeping track of everything. bowl gaskets were nice..till I had to try to remove them LOL!
 
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Looks nice & organized from here. If it all came apart without a fight, you're well on your way.
 
yea Thanks Bob! I don't see where the "F" oring is used, can't seem to find "fuel tubes" ?
 
FUEL TUBES are the main fuel tee and the two transfer tubes between 1 and 2.......3 and 4.
 
If you have the plastic rubber coated fuel tubes then youll not have use of those Orings. Youll do the pilot and mixture screws, the needle jet, and the choke plungers.
 
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slyone said:
I got all my stuff so being anxious, I couldn't hold off:) Freakin bowls are clean as a whistle:( prolly didn't need it?
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Definitely not going to hurt anything, besides, now you KNOW how clean they are.
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Yes you guys are definitely right, plus the seals were dished out? not nice & round. Plus they're 33 yrs old so who knows until you do it?? I've become anal over pm...or is it just enjoyable:D Anyways, I just whipped off the cam cover and will check the valve adj. tomorrow. I was hoping to maybe ride next week when we get out last couple days to really do so, we got a warm front coming our way:D but if I gotta wait for any shims, I won't be doing that:(
ps, I'll go check those tubes too...
 
When you reassemble the carbs, be sure to lube the orings AND the ports they go into. I take a Qtip and apply a bit of grease in the holes as well as a smear on the orings. This allows them to slide easily as you install the screws. Dry orings and walls of the holes cause the orings to drag and even roll up over the threads..causing damage to them.

EDIT...LIGHT coat that is..just enough to lube it..not globby.
 
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I've got some "magic Lube" teflon based stuff I use for the pool filter/pump which should be fine. I did go dry when I did the new carb boots to head though...I do have those fuel tubes and Bob's kit includes all 8 as well:D

I also checked my valves, only have a .05mm and a .10mm on my metric feelers. The .05 went great and .10 wouldn't YEAAA! except I have a .05 no go on
#2 Intake, #4 Intake & Exhaust so either try a smaller feeler or plan on getting next up shim for those 3 correct?
 
I went to Oreilllys and got a combo SAE/Metric set for like 8 bucks. Best to have the fuller range..but at least a .10 wasnt going and thats a good sign. Also as has been mentioned in many other threads, check each shim you take out with a dial caliper or metric Micrometer. They do wear over time and the thickness they stamped on at the factory may no longer apply.

EDIT...and always install the shims with the numbers down ( facing the piston )..This keeps the numbers from being scrubbed off so next time you can read them again
 
Zip tie works just as good...and even better in some instances. The tool has a tendancy to slip off the bucket and that really pizzes me off for sure.
 
chuck hahn said:
Zip tie works just as good...and even better in some instances. The tool has a tendancy to slip off the bucket and that really pizzes me off for sure.
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Yea maybe I'll try that tomorrow so I can keep moving along and if I get really lucky, maybe find some locally...though when I asked at the dealers today when I picked up my stuff..the guy says most everything they work on is 15 yrs and newer. The "old timer" who wasnt there today might have some?? Otherwise order from Z1, I guess..
 
Just take out the plugs and youll be able to see the valves..just position the doubled over zip tie between the valve and the valve seat then turn the crank from the BIG nut on the crank under the points cover. This traps the valve open and relieves the bucket so you can get to the shim. Have some tweezers or hemostats handy to help fish the shims out.
 
Take all the plugs out so your not fighting all the compression from the other cylinders too. Start at number 4 ..so youre on the same side as the crank nut...and look down the plug hole with a flashlight and just roll the crank over with youre wrench and get a feel or whats happening in there and youll figure it out pretty fast...you seem like a sharp guy. and always turn the engine clockwise at the crank.
 
Yea I read up a little on this around here, sounds easy enough/makes sense. I guess the worst is getting the shims quickly and then of course cleaning all this crap and gettin it ready for reinstall:eek:LOL! Well it was good talkin to ya Chuck and Thanks for the info..I'm gonna hit the hay so I can get crackin tomorrow:D
 
Figure outn hwat ones you need and what bucket they gom in and then PM Ghostgs1 ( Ray ) at the shim club. He will send you what you need...you swap them out and send him back your used ones..and NEVER EVER turn that crank without a shim in all the buckets!!!!!!
 
slyone;1750642 I also checked my valves said:
plan on getting next up shim for those 3 correct?[/COLOR]
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I just thought about this, I believe I'll need to get "next down..or a smaller/thinner shim" won't I ?:confused:
 
If say...the clearance is at .08 MM, which is at the very highest limit, then youll need a shim thats .03MM THICKER than whats in that bucket. so...lets say that shim ( with a caliper ) measures 2.70. So you need another .03MM to get the clearance to the nominal .05. Thus that bucket will require a 2.73 MM shim. Follow the math?

EDIT...And yess youll need a thinner guage than that .05 so you can get a read as to what the real gap is. if you dont know a real starting gap you cant do the math to find out what the tighter valves actually need..make sense??
 
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