Idle problems after head gasket replacement

[Sunburn]

1983 GS1100E with about 18,800 on the clock.

Alright need some help. I had a bad oil leak for some time leaking around the head gasket. Replaced the O-rings on the front head bolts and replaced the valve cover. This did not solve the problem.

So I replaced the head gasket. The bike was running fine before the gasket replacement. It's now oil tight, but the bike will not idle good. It's harder to start now, have to use full choke once started it needs attention to warm up or it will stall. I noticed a "chirp" sound in the exhaust when opening the throttle that was never there before. Once warm the idle is much like a vacuum leak. If i adjust the throttle stop screw, it never get's it right, too low or too high.

Once at speed everything seems fine.

Double checked the fit on the carb boots, checked the plugs and the gap, My vacuum line for the petcock is plugged, don't need it for mine.


Never pulled cams off a bike before, was concerned about doing that right followed the service manual instructions.

I was going to balance the carbs but my 15 year old motion pro carb sync has seen better days. A new one is on order.....although no adjustments were made and the bike was running fine before removal.


Any experienced help on what I should check next would be appreciated.



Mark

 

[niclpnut]

Did you check the valve clearances after your reinstalled the cams?

Hard start/idle woes indicate need for valve adjustment.

Pull that cover and check the cam timing (20 Pins, arrows on cams in correct orientation) and reinspect the clearances (.003"-.005").

Nic

 

[Runningdog]

Recheck intake boots......likely a leak between head and boot itself...are there o-rings, like on an 850?

 

[Sunburn]

Did you check the valve clearances after your reinstalled the cams?

Hard start/idle woes indicate need for valve adjustment.

Pull that cover and check the cam timing (20 Pins, arrows on cams in correct orientation) and reinspect the clearances (.003"-.005").

Nic

Yes, clearances were checked, Arrows and pins accounted for. Although i might go back in and check again, wanted to eliminate other possible causes.

 

[Sunburn]

Recheck intake boots......likely a leak between head and boot itself...are there o-rings, like on an 850?

Yeah, pulled the carbs back off and inspected the boots all around. The have a raised ring on each side of the boot the fit into a grove on the head and the carbs. All tight and checked out ok.

 

[rapidray]

Where in California are you? Give me a call at 714--356-7845. I am near Disneyland if you are in SoCal. Ray.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Check your cam timing again. And not only counting pins and checking arrows, make sure your timing plate is aligned. One tooth off or slightly off the timing marks will cause issues. Many people get so caught up making sure their arrows line up and they have 20 pins and all that, when thy start tightening down the cam caps they don't make sure the plate and or cams don't fall out of timing.

Chirping could also be loose spark plug(s) or header(s). NGKs always backed out on me once I'd removed them from the head once. Of course I was always afraid of really really cranking on those things tightening them too..

 

[Sunburn]

Where in California are you? Give me a call at 714--356-7845. I am near Disneyland if you are in SoCal. Ray.

I'm going to open the top again, check the cams and verify the clearances on the valves and report back to you guys.


Ray, i'm in the "Inland Empire" near the 60&15 freeway. I'll give you a call if I run into any unusual snags maybe you can talk me through it.


Thanks everyone for your input so far.


Mark

 

[Guest]

Do a compression check.​

 

[bwringer]

How long did it take to finish the head gasket replacement?

It's possible for the pilot jets in the carbs to clog up pretty quickly -- a week or two is sufficient.

You might need to clean these.

 

[Sunburn]

Do a compression check.​

Guess this would have had more value if a compression check was done pre-project.


#1 105
#2 130
#3 115
#4 150

Once the valve cover was off, a few head bolts needs a little more torque. Using a new wrench, did not trust the old one I had. I will run another compression check tomorrow.

 

[Sunburn]

How long did it take to finish the head gasket replacement?

It's possible for the pilot jets in the carbs to clog up pretty quickly -- a week or two is sufficient.

You might need to clean these.

Carbs were on the shelf for three weeks or so.

 

[Sunburn]

Check your cam timing again. And not only counting pins and checking arrows, make sure your timing plate is aligned. One tooth off or slightly off the timing marks will cause issues. Many people get so caught up making sure their arrows line up and they have 20 pins and all that, when thy start tightening down the cam caps they don't make sure the plate and or cams don't fall out of timing.

Sorry big pictures.....


Alright then. I brought the motor back to "T" for the number one and four and the picture below is what I saw. If i turn just a hair more past the "t" it's perfection. Although the marks are still at 20 pins, i feel the marks are off the mark just a hair when at the "T". The notches on the cam ends are not perfectly facing each other.

Agreed it's off and I should adjust the cams again??

Intake picture

Exhaust picture

Picture of 20 pin mark

Picture of #1 arrow alignment.

 

[Guest]

I can't tell in the large pic

 

[Sunburn]

Adjusted the cam timing. It was just a hair off from when I drawn in the cams from the first time. so this time it was perfect, until, until snap!

Damn cheap click torque wrench. It was working fine, clicking at the right time until it decided to stop clicking and start jacking chit up. I threw that thing in the trash, successfully removed the broken part and I am waiting on the new bolt before in the mail before i continue.

Meanwhile, in the market for a new torque wrench. Looking for recommendations. Anyone care to share?

 

[Tom R]

I've been using a Craftsman beam type for about 15 years without complaint. They're generally easier on the wallet than the click type and convenient enough for the amount of use most of us give a torque wrench.

 

[Guest]

Adjusted the cam timing. It was just a hair off from when I drawn in the cams from the first time. so this time it was perfect, until, until snap!

Damn cheap click torque wrench. It was working fine, clicking at the right time until it decided to stop clicking and start jacking chit up. I threw that thing in the trash, successfully removed the broken part and I am waiting on the new bolt before in the mail before i continue.

Meanwhile, in the market for a new torque wrench. Looking for recommendations. Anyone care to share?

Which one did you break?
I hope it runs well after you get it buttoned up!

 

[Guest]

I've been using a Craftsman beam type for about 15 years without complaint. They're generally easier on the wallet than the click type and convenient enough for the amount of use most of us give a torque wrench.

:-$
Don't tell Keith! This could turn into a one-hundred page thread about the pros and cons of cheap torque wrenches!

 

[Sunburn]

Which one did you break?
I hope it runs well after you get it buttoned up!

6MM cam cap bolt on "C". Sad part was it sounded like a click, but felt like a snap, pulled out the bolt intact! Scratched my head, looked fine put it back in, then it snapped clean with the slightest load on it. pulled out half and just smiled. :-&

 

[Guest]

6MM cam cap bolt on "C". Sad part was it sounded like a click, but felt like a snap, pulled out the bolt intact! Scratched my head, looked fine put it back in, then it snapped clean with the slightest load on it. pulled out half and just smiled. :-&

I learned my lesson with those. You either break the bolts or pull the threads out of the hole.
I never put more than a couple of pounds on those.