idling/stalling issue...

[Fare]

Still no go (tho i like the idea of cranking w/o recharging the battery)

At mid range of the choke, i got a couple of puffs (back fires?), like it wanted to start.

Does anyone have a picture of what the spark should look like? theres spark one 1,3,4 (didn't check 2, assumed there would be if 3 had a spark). the sparks looks small, but i have nothing to compare it too. the spark plugs are stil white white white (but thats to be expected, they're brand spanking new... right?) Does it sound like a coil issue? a starter motor issue?

Again, like always, any comments welcome.

 

[nabrams]

Are you saying you DID boost from your car battery? - and you STILL had miniscule spark? If so, then you've got some ignition issue - do a search.
Also, if those plugs are not igniting the fuel/air mixture they should be wet-wet-wet, regardless of whether or not they're white-white-white.
Even a fairly weak spark should ignite a proper fuel/air mixture ratio, so if they are wet then your spark is super-weak, or the mixture is super-lean (since you say they're white-white-white). Now, if they're SO white it could be severe air leaks or severely mis-tuned carbs (jets, mixture screw, etc.). Are you SURE everything in the carb/airbox/boots is to factory spec and there are NO air leaks. I can tell you from experience that when I thought I was sure, I found out I was WRONG.

 

[Fare]

Screw in the main jet and pilot jet until snug.

Are you SURE everything in the carb/airbox/boots is to factory spec and there are NO air leaks.

everything is screwed in all the way. the screw outside the carb is like one turn out (figured it wouldn't be that big a deal, would have to tune it anyway when I got to the sync part). The filter was changed to K&N, i though I wouldn't have to rejet.

The plugs aren't dripping or anything, they seem dry (could check though).
gas doesn't SEEM to be reaching the plugs...the idle screw probably isn't configured correctly, but I pull on the throttle when starting... (the carbs were bench synced)
Is there a way to test a severe air leak?
or perhaps the filter is jammed in there and is somehow not letting any air through?
perhaps the air filter was oiled too much (I hope not, I was real careful to only dampen it with the oil provided).
the intake boots have new o rings, that shouldn't be the leak.
the boots all seem like they are snug and properly camped with the o clamp.

should I throw down more money on new coils, or does it seem like thats not the issue?


Thank you,

Fare

 

[nabrams]

You still haven't answered my first question:
Are you saying you DID boost from your car battery? - and you STILL had miniscule spark?
We can't help you if you don't answer the questions.
Also, where do you live? - There may be a member close by who can come to your house to help.
Also, if your plugs aren't wet and the bike is not firing then obviously fuel is not reaching the cylinder. Try turning the mixture screws out another turn - If you don't know what the mixture screw is, then you've got to re-read the manual.
Also, do NOT twist the throttle a lot when starting - an eigth of a the travel at most - see other posts.

 

[Fare]

You still haven't answered my first question:
Are you saying you DID boost from your car battery? - and you STILL had miniscule spark?

I'm sorry, I thought it was more of a statement than a question.

(tho i like the idea of cranking w/o recharging the battery)

I guess I ought to be a little more literal. yes, used jumper cable to connect my SUV's battery to my bike's.

the screw outside the carb is like one turn out

as long as this is mixture screw (or air screw as referred to in the carb cleanup images).

Also, do NOT twist the throttle a lot when starting - an eigth of a the travel at most - see other posts.

I was testing all ranges from no pull, to slightly and progressively more

 

[Fare]

guess coils weren't the issue.

Dyna 3 ohm coils installed
7mm Suppression Core wires installed
looks like hte coils were backwards (dunno if this was an issue)
mixture screws turned 2 out.

cranks, no "pop" from a plug sparking in the chamber.

today: going to look at the air filter. plugs smell like gas but aren't "Dripping wet".

More to come...

________questions______________
1) if i'm getting a spark, my ignition system is working and can rule out anything there.
2) if compression is up to spec, my engine is working fine.
3) if fuel flows into the bowls, my petcock is working correctly.

4)This sounds like the fuel is not getting to the engine, because of leaks?

 

[Fare]

Redid the compression tests. all are 130+ except 3, which is ~30.

I didn't check wet, because i doubt i was going to get 90+ more psi with it.

Would my engine not start with 30 psi in the third cylinder?

tried to start it sans the air filter, that too, doesn't appear to be the culprit.

 

[Fare]

well, the saga ends...






This morning, i decide to test my 3rd cylinder again. i didn't pull on the throttle at all when i first tested it, so i decided to test it again, for kicks and giggles. I hook it all up, turn the key and press the button. THE BIKE STARTS. wtf? my compression was 150 too... i'm not complaining or anything, but...

whatever, doing the carb syncs right now, and so far its all good.

Thank you Nabrams for all your replies.

carb syncing done, only problem, at the moment, is that it takes awhile to return to idle now.

 

[nabrams]

Good news. You're on your way. You've verified the key issues. Now, slow return to idle is usually indicative of a very minor air leak somewhere. The problem is that these very minor leaks are VERY hard to detect. I say, get the bike buttoned up and ride around for 100 miles. This will give you a chance to discover any remaining issues. Carry a spak-plug removal wrench with you. If you run into problems, pull over and remove the plugs and check 'em.

 

[Fare]

I think I'm able to identify why the slow descent to idle is from.

I removed the filter from the air box, and the idle was barely enough to keep the bike up (idle was stuck at 1500 with the filter, the idle screw couldn't go any lower) and after a rev, it immediately returned to where it should be. Can a over oiled air filter be the culprit of this? I'll wash it following the advise i've found here tonite and see if i can see some normal results.