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Ignition circuit --- lower volts?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Anonymous
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Anonymous

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Well I got my Voltmeter mounted and hooked up to the igntion circuit. I thought the thing must be off becouse it was reading 11. I tested the battery and it was at 12.3. I put the guage wires on the battery and it went above 12 as well. I found that my two bottom fuzed circuits match the battery--- over 12. The 3 other fuzes igntion, head lite, and signals all are down near 11v. Is this normal for these three switched circuits to be lower?
 
Re: Ignition circuit --- lower volts?

My 79 750E shows 1/4 volt difference/loss between voltage at the battery terminals and voltage at the orange/white wire that connects to the coil + terminal.

Earl

chrisdnoel said:
Well I got my Voltmeter mounted and hooked up to the igntion circuit. I thought the thing must be off becouse it was reading 11. I tested the battery and it was at 12.3. I put the guage wires on the battery and it went above 12 as well. I found that my two bottom fuzed circuits match the battery--- over 12. The 3 other fuzes igntion, head lite, and signals all are down near 11v. Is this normal for these three switched circuits to be lower?
Click to expand...
 
I havn't tried it running yet.

I havn't tried it running yet.

I havn't tried it running yet. I might also see what reading I get on the Ignition fuze with no load on the head lites, or signals.
 
The voltage drop you see is due to resistance in the circuit and a general loss in the wires. The wires are of minimal size, in order to keep many wires in a small place, and the crimp connectors always have some resistance, even when clean, due to the type of connection.

Try blowing through a straw and then a garden hose to see how it works.

The straw, being short, allows pretty well the sme flow and pressure at exit as it gets at input.

The hose is much longer and there is abrasion of the air molecules as they are pushed against the sides of the hose, as well as the resistance to movement of the air itself, due to the volume that increases with hose length.

Cut the hose in a few places, and put in splices. Each splice fits inside the hose, so the hose itself retains the same inner diameter, but each splice is a restriction to the flow. The flow is reduced as it passes through the connection, then the air must expand and continue until it reaches the next constriction, where the process is repeated. At the other end of the hose you will see that your forceful breath at the input has become a much-reduced puff of air.

Just like a hose, it takes pressure (volts) to get the current through the wires, and over distance, with a variety of splices and connectors, the pressure drops off.
 
Ah Ha.

Ah Ha.

Yea. I get 12 at the igntion with no load and the bike off. It stays at 12 with bike running and the headlite, and signal fuzes in place. I'll still do the no load 5000 rpm test from time to time, but it looks like having the meter on the bike will help ease my mind while riding.
 
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