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Ignition issue? Or Fuse? Switch?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Radbassist
  • Start date Start date
R

Radbassist

Guest
1983 GS1100E ... Low battery, had it on the charger, tried to start it, turned over and almost started, hit the start button again and I lost all power. No headlight on key on or anything... Metered the power at the fuse block (the + and - screws) and when I turn the key on, it kills the voltage to the fuse block.
wondering if I burned a fusible link somewhere? Or burned up the control box by trying to start it on the charger. I knew better. Dammit.
 
Sounds like the battery can not sustain any load.

You can test it yourself using Quick Test or you can work for a few hours to get it out from under the airbox and take it to an auto store.
 
Sounds like the battery can not sustain any load.

You can test it yourself using Quick Test or you can work for a few hours to get it out from under the airbox and take it to an auto store.

tested battery and it was toast BUT I had a charger on the battery while cranking. Headlight came on, hit the start button, it tried to start, hit the button again and it just totally died. All electrical pulse dead. Metered the + post on the fuse box and it had 12v... turned the key on and the 12v went away. Wondering if I fried my Keyswitch by trying to start the engine with a charger on it. I fried something I just don?t know what it was
 
YIKES!

I'm no electrical expert, but I think Posplayr will concur when I say YIKES!

You'll need a new battery, and a Dremel or a chainsaw to remove it. :p :p

Nope. I have K&N pods :D:D 15 seconds it?s out.
 
I have pods too. Still have to displace gas tank and remove frame sub member. Not 15 minutes, but a bit more than 15 seconds.

dude. The 4 screws that bolt the tank to the frame are gone. Are you going to help me or just puss me off.... if you would like, I?ll video myself taking a battery out. Sheesh. No help. Go away
 
I have pods too. Still have to displace gas tank and remove frame sub member. Not 15 minutes, but a bit more than 15 seconds.

well my time is valuable. Matter of fact.... if you can?t help shut the *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ up.
 
I'm not sure what brought on the attitude here but posplayr gave you the same diagnosis that most of any other experienced guy would. If you don't like the answer then it ain't up to anyone else but you to change your opinion on what's going on with your bike. If your time is THAT important then go pony up the cash and buy a new bike and you won't have to deal with these problems anymore!
 
Radbassist
There's a couple or 4 things about the forum that are going to help you get along and get your bike fixed, and enjoy your time here.
1. Putting your bike specs in your signature helps those trying to help you know what it is your asking about. No-one wants to go back to your first post to find out if you included that info or not.
2. Rob is our resident ball-buster, and we we've decided to find that quality endearing.
3. Posplayr is the guru most of us turn to for help with anything electrical because he's an electrical engineer and has re-written the book on the GS charging system. Post Count should be a good indicator here. He often speaks over my head on the technical stuff, but he will dumb it down when asked. His quick test is a great basis to start fixing charging issues, even (especially) when you think you don't have a charging issue.
4. LAB3 literally lives on his motorcycle most of the time, and he's not wrong.

If it were me, since you've tested the battery found it no good, I'd get a new battery. Check all the fuses. If no joy when you turn the key, I'd pull the ignition lock and take it apart. If it's like mine, there are springs and bbs in there, be careful. And look for something burnt.
 
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Radbassist - a few things about the GS bikes.
The electrical systems are not the best, but we've learned to make them serviceable.

Old bikes of all makes suffer from age and previous owners. The area around the steering neck tends to change and create shorts. This can be a pain to find
Get a good battery, it's probably no farther away than your nearest Batteries Plus. Then, break out your voltmeter and start working your way thru the harness
In general, the red wire from the battery goes to the starter relay and the main fuse. Then, up to the ignition switch and back to the other fuses
Take the fuse box off and remove the back. Check that the solder connections all look good.
Clean every connection, switch and electrical components as you work thru a circuit. The ignition switch contacts are critical
 
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