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Ignition Pick up testing

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bryan88
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Bryan88

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Apologies for an introduction and question in one. I am not a GS450 owner anymore, but it was my first road bike and I loved it to bits. In fact the ignition system from that 450 still lives (or should I say lived) on in my current GS500e. Now I have a no spark situation that I am trying to solve. With regard to testing the pick ups, I have used this method - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SuP1mLxz84U (apologies for the language) and get almost identical results. My question/problem is this, according to the manual you must test from one of the pick up wires to the FRAME, as apposed to the black/white coming from the pick ups themselves. Is that "earth" from the pick ups supposed to be isolated from the frame, or are my pick ups shot? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
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Black/white is ground in Suzuki's wiring standard. This is just a general comment though so you should look at the wiring diagram for your specific bike to be sure.

BTW, the signal generators are very reliable and rarely fail. The ignitors from the 450 on the other hand are problematic and often fail. Doubly so on bikes where the R/R ground has failed and the bike is over charging.
 
View attachment 46420

above is what I think is relevant portion of the 450 ignition to your question. When disconnected (as in the video), there is no connection to frame ground. They ground VIA the TCI black box....the pickups are simplistically tiny independent generators that create a little pulse the transistors use to control the coils and create spark.
 
View attachment 46420

above is what I think is relevant portion of the 450 ignition to your question. When disconnected (as in the video), there is no connection to frame ground. They ground VIA the TCI black box ("Ignitor") ....the pickups are simplistically tiny independent generators that create a little pulse the transistors use to control the coils and create spark.
 
oh, and check the wires leading to the pickups where they gointo the motor. If you are finding the ground fault just testing at the connector , member ukjules had chafe and a fault where they run into the motor..(resulting in "high speed missing").
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Yes it would appear that they do work that way, and I didn't think about the fact that if they are disconnected from the loom they wouldn't get an earth. I am in the process of trying to use BMW 100RS modules, also used commonly in cars, will let you all know if I have any luck. Thanks again.
 
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Those BMW modules are the same as in the old VW Golf and are triggered by a hall effect sensor and not a reluctance type input.
 
Those BMW modules are the same as in the old VW Golf and are triggered by a hall effect sensor and not a reluctance type input.
Please could you explain further? The reason I am going this route is that I already have one off my dad's old BM. So far I have managed to get it running on one cylinder (I have reproduced this on both sides with the respective pick-up's/coils). I am assuming that if I use another one I should get both cylinders to fire? Thanks.
 
Please could you explain further? The reason I am going this route is that I already have one off my dad's old BM. So far I have managed to get it running on one cylinder (I have reproduced this on both sides with the respective pick-up's/coils). I am assuming that if I use another one I should get both cylinders to fire? Thanks.

I stand corrected then as I was not aware of that specific Bosch unit also being able to do so. I thought they were only Hall Effect Switch driven.

You probably know that you can buy those same ones at your Midas quite cheaply for a VW Golf Mk1. You will just need to buy the connector at Goldwagen or a scrapyard. Yes you will need a second one for the other coil. You may have to check your dwell period once you are up and running.
 
Thanks for that, I searched the reluctance type but my electrical knowlege is pretty limited. One thing does concern me though, I tried one of the Golf units and it didn't work, so I just assumed I need to get the exact Bosch one that I have got already (the bike definitely runs with the BM one) I will persevere and let you know how I go. Thanks again
 
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