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ignitor test??

  • Thread starter Thread starter jordraatt
  • Start date Start date
J

jordraatt

Guest
Hi folks!

I accidently switched the battery-poles on my bike.. do you think the ignitor was damaged by this??

and if so, is there a way to test if it's ok??

sincerely

bike: 1983 gs650m katana
 
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jordraatt said:
Hi folks!

I accidently switched the battery-poles on my bike.. do you think the ignitor was damaged by this??

and if so, is there a way to test if it's ok??

sincerely
Click to expand...
Do you have reason to suspect you've damaged it other than reversing the polarity on the battery? How long did you have it hooked up?

You will likely find the ignitor test for your bike (what bike, btw?) in a service manual off BassCliff's webpage:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/
 
thanks, going to check out basscliffs site..

the polarity switch is the only reason i suspect it's broken.. i have no idea if it works or not..

and yes, it was turned on for a pretty long time.. maybe 0,5 hour..
 
Did you turn the key on? was the kill switch in the run position? did any fuses blow?

If the answer is no to all of them then I'd say no you didn't kill you ignitor.
 
Hi,

Look in the electrical section of my website for ignitor (and other) tests.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Killer2600 said:
Did you turn the key on? was the kill switch in the run position? did any fuses blow?

If the answer is no to all of them then I'd say no you didn't kill you ignitor.
Click to expand...

yes, i did turn the key on.. yes, the kill switch was in the run position.. and no, the fuses did not blow.. so the ignitor definitely got som switched polarity power..
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

Look in the electrical section of my website for ignitor (and other) tests.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

thank you very much "basscliff", i'm going to check it out.. amazing site by the way, very good job there..

sincerely
 
Me, I'd get lazy and just check for spark at plugs; you can always move on to the ignitor tests later.
 
tom203 said:
Me, I'd get lazy and just check for spark at plugs; you can always move on to the ignitor tests later.
Click to expand...

the problem is, Tom, i can't start it up right now.. flywheel is off.. so i musst test with only with the ignition turned on
 
jordraatt said:
the problem is, Tom, i can't start it up right now.. flywheel is off.. so i musst test with only with the ignition turned on
Click to expand...

On basscliff's website there is a ignitor test that utilizes an ohm meter or multi-meter on the ohm's setting. You don't have to use an ohm meter, a 1.5v battery will suffice - just make absolutely sure you get the polarity right, no hooking it up backwards here.

The direct link is http://members.dslextreme.com/users/storagecliff/images/electrical_odd-n-ends.html#A11
 
thank you "killer2600", i've already found the article on this.. i'm going to do a test now
 
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Just a word of caution. Make sure your multimeter is working correctly and you know how to use the ohms range as false readings can give you the wrong diagnosis.

Two years back when I got my first 550 (parts in boxes) I was convinced my igniter was not working as I got no spark. I did the tests as per the manual and they seemed to confirm my fear. My tests showed no resistance between any of the contacts. I junked it believing it was toast and started my search for a replacement. That led me to the "Igniter Interchange Project"......which is another story.

Once I got a working igniter (from a 750) I still couldn't get spark and it was my pro wrench who advised me to check my spark plug caps which turned out to be toast. Around the same time, I was corresponding with Victor Gallas and some of the other guys who were working on rebuilding the igniters. I sent mine to him. Victor plugged it into his bike and it worked flawlessly.

My multimeter probably was malfunctioning as it recently died so I likely wasn't getting accurate information and came to the wrong conclusion.

I think, in a similar situation, I would be satisfied confirming that I had spark. Remembering now that spark plug caps can be an issue ( I did know that but forgot about it entirely), I'd remove the cap, stick a nail in the wire end and check for spark against the engine block ( or buy a fresh cap $7).

Just something to consider.

Good luck.
spyug
 
thank you very much for the good tips "spyug", i'll have them in mind..

here's the thing.. i did the ignitor test as followed:
took out spark plug #1 and grounded it.. i made sure the ignitor got power and was well grounded.. then i disconnected the signal generator, standing there with a green and a blue wire.. i connected the voltmeter (set to ohms) to these two wires to get a connection.. nothing happens!! no spark!!

is it dead?? or did i do something wrong??
 
Put the side cover back on, put it in 2nd or 3rd, set the choke, turn the key on and try push starting it...
 
You may not be doing the test correctly. Shouldn't #2 spark when you DISCONNECT the meter? Did you observe this?

Try the test again the way Spyug recommended (without the plug cap). The cap may be faulty as well. What is your resistance reading across the leads?
 
BigD_83 said:
You may not be doing the test correctly. Shouldn't #2 spark when you DISCONNECT the meter? Did you observe this?

Try the test again the way Spyug recommended (without the plug cap). The cap may be faulty as well. What is your resistance reading across the leads?
Click to expand...

plug #2 and #4 should spark when i connect the voltmeter, and plug #1 and #3 should spark when i disconnect the voltmeter.. nothing happens.. also tried without the plug caps, nothing..

you mean the resistance between the green and the blue wire?? around 10 - 15 ohms

i guess the ignitor works almost like a relay??
 
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That is the opposite of what my copy of the service manual says. Which leads are you hooking up to each of the blue and green wires?

I'm talking about the resistance from plug cap to plug cap (secondary resistance) on each set of coils. Should be somewhere in the neighborhood of 32 kΩ IIRC. If you are getting infinite resistance then you may not get spark.
 
i've checked all the plugs now, no spark at no moment.. also checked the restistance on the coils as you mentioned, and they showed somewhere around 200k.ohms..

i measured the voltage on the coils input, and it got a constant power of 11,5 volts.. that can't be normal??
 
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