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ignitor test?

  • Thread starter Thread starter 60ratrod
  • Start date Start date
6

60ratrod

Guest
ok so the new signal generator came to day and tested good like the auction said. so as a just to make sure, i retested the one that's already on the bike, and it tested good at 326 ohms. so i started trying to test the ignitor, and got a little confused. the FSM(factory service manual), stated that i needed to set my meter to x1 setting, but my meter only has 200, 2000, 20k, 200k and 2000k settings. which one should i set my meter to?
 
Tom, that's the exact FSM test procedure. I just need to figure out which range to set the meter to
 
60ratrod said:
ok so the new signal generator came to day and tested good like the auction said. so as a just to make sure, i retested the one that's already on the bike, and it tested good at 326 ohms. so i started trying to test the ignitor, and got a little confused. the FSM(factory service manual), stated that i needed to set my meter to x1 setting, but my meter only has 200, 2000, 20k, 200k and 2000k settings. which one should i set my meter to?
Click to expand...
You need to have a meter that has a X1 Position. Yours doesn't so you can't. Does your meter have a diode test position?
 
What is the brand and model number of the unit your are using?
 
You can try it on the diode/continuity setting. In that position your meter outputs 2.8V D.C. open circuit @ 1 Ma current.
(IIRC most analogue meters used 1.5V D.C. open circuit)

Manual...http://download.sears.com/own/03482141e.pdf

I don't know if your FSM shows this test also, but if you look down the page linked where it shows the X1 ignitor test you will see a post by Matchless (Andre),
Testing The Ignition System
Click to expand...
read line # 14

To simulate the small voltage generated by the pickup coil, prepare an ordinary 1.5V dry cell with two wires red for positive and black for negative. Connect the negative black wire from the dry cell to the blue wire on the connector plug going into the igniter. Switch on the ignition and kill switch to power the igniter and briefly touch the red wire from the dry cell positive to the green wire connector going into the igniter. You should see a spark on plugs #1 and #4 when you touch the wire and on #2 and #3 when you remove the wire. If this works your igniter is in a working condition.
Click to expand...
Your FSM should have something similar as well.

NOTE!!! I couldn't find the open circuit voltage of your meter when set on the 200Ω scale, but on the one I did check, it listed <1.5 volts. Yours may, or may not, be suitable if set on the 200Ω scale.
 
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Ok. I'll try that in the next couple days. the ignitor at this point is the only thing that makes sense as to why I'm getting no spark on 1 or 4. I may be doing one of the gm hei ignitors
 
60ratrod said:
Ok. I'll try that in the next couple days. the ignitor at this point is the only thing that makes sense as to why I'm getting no spark on 1 or 4. I may be doing one of the gm hei ignitors
Click to expand...
Have you checked the coil's secondary resistance and if so what was the reading?

EDIT... http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=2081529&postcount=5

Remove the brass screw inside each plug cap, remove the resistors from both caps, measure the resistance of those two resistors and also the plug wire to plug wire without the resistors in place.
 
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Well I initially thought it was the coils, so I used the mean green dynas I had bought for my kz1000, so I know the coils are good. and I wasn't getting anything when I read the 1/4 coil iaw(in accordance with) the FSM. Since I'm a chevy small block guy, having a couple of hei modules can't hurt if this don't work out

I'm an airdale in the navy, so if my acronyms don't make sense, lemme know.
 
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