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in-line filter

  • Thread starter Thread starter dickidav
  • Start date Start date
D

dickidav

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i have rust in my tank and was told to put on an inline fuel filter. did that and put one on the vacume line to the carb as well. should i have done that or just the fuel line. i plan to coat the tank but am just trying to get the bike running for more than 3-5 sec with starter fluid. once in a while it will run for 2-3 min. but then stalls. please help ;) :cool:
 
Hi,

The correct procedure would be to clean and coat the tank, clean the carbs, and toss the inline filters. I know some members use inline fuel filters but I have never heard of anyone putting a filter on the vacuum line.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
thanks- i have a new petcock comming tomarrow (just checked the shipping conformation #'s) and will get rid of the filters after that. if i have cleaned out the tank so no sediment is in there and new petcock should i worry about the rust for now? i am just trying to get it started.:cool:
 
The rust will get through the gravity inline filter. Ask JC
Do as Basscliff said. Treat the tank.
No filter needed on the vacuum line.
 
ok i will treat the tank this week but for now i should still use the fuel line filter? thanks again dave
 
Use the filter but it will just delay the carb cleaning in your future.
 
I found that the in line filter caused fuel delivery problems. It will be difficult to gauge how the engine is running if this occurs. A low pressure (gravity type) filter is best.

Rust treatment is definitely they way to go.
 
Hi,

If you use a gravity-fed filter, like for a lawn mower, it can work OK for a while but you're taking a chance on horking up your carbs if there is rust/sediment in your tank. It's always best to do it right the first time.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Funny things those in-line filters. I ran a car one on my 1150 for years and it worked great.

However yesterday I went for a ride with my bro on his Z1300, and his in-line filter was restricting the flow to the point where his bike would stall every 3 miles or so.
 
Definitely don't need one for the vacuum line, you shouldn't have anything other than air in that anyway.
 
I would run motorcycle filters if I were you. I had a problem with a clear plastic 5/16 auto on that ran out of gas after 2 miles at 65 on a 78 XT500 Yamaha single. However I run 2 5/16 auto filters on my 1105 KZ900 w/29mm smoothbores for years with no problems. Im presently working for the last 6 months trying to clean a GS1100 tank that set for 9 years with a half a tank of gas without ruining the perfect original red paint. Got 200 1/4 inch washers in it and a gallon Greased Lightning and I shake it every day. Ive flushed it 5 times and I still keep getting rusty crap out of it. Less & less every time but still not clean
 
wouldn't it be easier to just get a tank cleaner/sealer kit than the 6 months of swishing? dave:cool:
 
i bought kreem tank cleaner. heard it is as good as por. should have it by early next week and will let everybody know. thanks dave:cool:
 
Why dont you just rinse your tank out with phosphoric acid to get rid of the rust. Dont get it on the paint.
 
i can't get acid in my town. and por was more money than kreem so i will try kreem and see how it comes out.:cool:
 
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