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Indicator hell!!!

  • Thread starter Thread starter smokerhill
  • Start date Start date
S

smokerhill

Guest
Hi All,

Final stages of my first GS build which ive been working on for over 12 months. And im now getting beaten after all i have been through by some front indicators!!! i have draw a rough wiring diagram below of my set up in three different configurations.

Basically i have new indicators with just a green and blue wire. when connecting them and signal left i get a left flash but also a faded flash on the right and vice versa. I swapped the wires round for the right indicator and its the same. If I then swap the left indicator wires round I only get a very slow and dying tick noise from the flash relay and a very faded lit bulb on both L&R indicators.

indicator.jpg

My research suggested that the 'leak' could be because there is only 1 indicator instrument bulb (on the panel/dash) whether you signal left or right, so purposely leaks a little power from each indicator to glow this pannel bulb but shouldn't at the indicator because the old ones wouldn't glow with such small amount of power. But LEDs will as they only need a very small amount. i dont have the old ones to check, and dont want to start pulling those wires out if its just s simple fix.

Really appreciate anyone's help and advice.

Thanks
SW
 
We can't help without knowing what model you have.

The problem you are having is common and quite easy to fix. At maximum, it means soldering two diodes into the circuit at the correct place.
 
Ah; single turn indicator light. Yep, one leg of the bulb via two diodes as per the link already provided by fastbysuzuki, the other one to ground.

If the indicator light has been replaced with an LED one, keep polarity in mind.
 
Thanks for the replies (signature now sorted!) - the diagram in the link shows for an LED in the panel but does mention its the same for LED indicators so presume is the same. And also the placement of the diodes e.g back to back off the panel wire? not the indicators?
 
Ah; single turn indicator light. Yep, one leg of the bulb via two diodes as per the link already provided by fastbysuzuki, the other one to ground.

If the indicator light has been replaced with an LED one, keep polarity in mind.

Awesome thanks - just to be 100% is that "bulb" the one in the panel or the indicator (L or R?)?

And presume the diode suggested 1N4001 will work for GS1981L?

 
SW, I am not in a good position to help you too much at this time. But, let me comment and congratulate you on the great diagrams.

And are these lights LED?
If they are LED. and even if you have everything all wired up as proper as can be;the stock flasher is not going to work because the flasher requires a certain minimum of current for it to work. If the bulbs are not LED and are the normal bulbs with the filliments but they are smaller wattage (so less current) than stock bulbs; the flasher may work but flash slow.
 
SW, I am not in a good position to help you too much at this time. But, let me comment and congratulate you on the great diagrams.

And are these lights LED?
If they are LED. and even if you have everything all wired up as proper as can be;the stock flasher is not going to work because the flasher requires a certain minimum of current for it to work. If the bulbs are not LED and are the normal bulbs with the filliments but they are smaller wattage (so less current) than stock bulbs; the flasher may work but flash slow.

Thanks Redman - they are LED. They are flashing a bit quick but do work, just leak voltage into the opposite indicator. I will order a new flasher and try and insert the diode so it stops any current going through. Im pretty sure where it needs to go but if someone can confirm if i could put it into either bulb wire on the indicator rather than the panel bulb its going to be much simpler!
 
Awesome thanks - just to be 100% is that "bulb" the one in the panel or the indicator (L or R?)?

And presume the diode suggested 1N4001 will work for GS1981L?


The one in the panel. 1N4001 is plenty enough; it blocks up to 50V, whereas your bike will (should) provide 14.4V at maximum.
 
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